ECU flash for smoothness in 09 FJR?

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blakmambo

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Winter of my discontent on the Gen2 09er has arrived in force as of a two hour ride last Saturday . . . still have yet to fully "diagnose" the issues, as there are more than one . . . . Bar position is one problem, the PO installed the Heli-bar Tour Performance adapter, which seemingly brings the bars "back" but then tilts them "up" but forward, so that all of the mechanics are transferred up to my neck/shoulders, like a mini-ape-hanger position . . . not too problematic until riding in SoCal crosswinds, then it becomes very un-natural and tension producing . . . .

And, mixed into that are the previously mentioned throttle issues . . . even after I had a pro relieve the throttle spring seemingly small throttle inputs are making for "un-smooth" acceleration while driving down the road . . . possibly due to massive torque being put down all across the mapping? It's hard to understand what is happening . . . pulling away from a light there is stump pulling power pulling like a "mad dog" . . . possibly pulling more and more with revs up to 5 grand . . . trying to "short shift" doesn't get out of the torque band . . . and also doesn't get out of the "herky-jerky-ness" possibly due to FI "zero-ing out" when the throttle is relaxed . . . while driving down the road . . . .

And, then, the other issue is that something in the throttle range of rotation adds into the problems, where after mad dog acceleration through a few gears . . . looking down and we're doing 45 mph??? with wrist bent like we would be WFO . . . except we're far from it . . . . I'm comparing the ride-ability to my carburetted 86 ZG1000, the throttle action is smooth, riding down the road is also "calm" and I can get it moving and maintaining a speed of over 55 mph without it being a tension filled affair . . . somehow in comparison the FJR provides locomotive type power, albeit at lower speeds, but seems somehow intractable . . . can't figure it out specifically to one particular problem, but to a number of them--all of which would require money thrown at them . . . for a bike that I'm not sure if it's what I want. Seems like the bike is meant for higher speed freeway strafing . . . but, no longer have time for riding distances to get to some twisty road, and then in the local SoCal riding is mixed into heavy traffic with high end cars that have super acceleration, so "mad dog" acceleration isn't going to get me "ahead" . . . have to ride sedately to survive and not get a ticket, and then the throttle seems to require an iron grip to avoid herk-jerky . . . which increases tension . . . it's all made riding decidedly "not fun" after 30+ years of riding . . . .

Looking for "answers" I rode the bike over to an independent mechanic staffed by guys who were former employees of "Yamaha on Lincoln" ?? and I described my issues, and the friendly fellow was trying to remember the names of the various bar adapters, and then he said, "Are you gripping the bars too tightly, because you aren't supposed to use the bars to hang on, you're supposed to grip the tank with your legs, and use the bar to steer" . . . which I admitted might be much of the problem, due to said problems with the FI mapping seemingly not smooth??? I asked him, "What about the Power Commander? what do you think about that, mapped for smoothness??" He replied, "Prolly better to do an ECU flash before adding the PC, would likely be cheaper and would improve smoothness across the rev range . . . for less money that the PC . . . you could pull the ECU yourself and search online for places that do it, or bring it here, or bring the bike in and have us do it . . . ." "OK" I said . . . "Thanks for your time on this." White-knuckled it home on a small section of freeway, just like when I first started riding 30+ years ago . . . don't know if I'm "just too old to ride in LA traffic" . . . there is some minor fix that would bring smooth acceleration on the low end and smooth riding rolling down Mulholland Highway without neck twinging torque effects from minor throttle changes . . . ??? Had the bike for 4 years, rode it up to the Central Coast two-up . . . still managed to ride it around these niggling problems . . . but the problems seem to be more blatant over time/miles . . . now only 23.5K . . . PO only put 13K on it in 5 years of ownership, possibly I understand why??

I'm not looking for top end hit, or triple digit speeds, just riding smoothness from low end w/o also feeling like the wind is going to push me off the bike combined with minor throttle movements . . . . I don't know whether the FI mapping is "glitchy" high/low HP v torque curve due to some "air pollution" issues, something specific to my bike that might show in dyno test . . . or, possibly just too much power for the type of riding environment I'm riding in . . . two lane highway with speed limits of 45 mph and tight twisty canyons with lots of on/off throttle . . . seems to have all built up to a "not that much fun" feeling . . . OR perhaps this is what all of the "Gen 2" problems are referring to?? "It's a Gen 2 bike John . . . just walk away . . . "??? G2 Throttle tube is the answer to all of these issues, or ECU flash??

TIA

Mambo

 
Mambo, I am no expert... but it sounds a lot like my bad TPS Throttle Position Sensor. On the 2013 I have 2, 1 on the left side and 1 on the right. Since you can't reach the right side, most everyone finds success replacing the one on the left. Search for 'Throttle Position Sensor'. Many have done it and all love it.

Also, put all the bars and such back to 'Factory settings' and ride it a while. It's not perfect, but most folks adapt a 'Master Yoda' riding position and can be comfy all day long.

If you need more input it will follow, but ultimately, this will be YOUR bike after you sort out the various issues, and fix them to your satisfaction.

Overall the folks will say ... 'Ride more - worry less' which often works best. Enjoy your new ride!

 
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Mambo, I am no expert... but it sounds a lot like my bad TPS Throttle Position Sensor. On the 2013 I have 2, 1 on the left side and 1 on the right. Since you can't reach the right side, most everyone finds success replacing the one on the left. Search for 'Throttle Position Sensor'. Many have done it and all love it.
Also, put all the bars and such back to 'Factory settings' and ride it a while. It's not perfect, but most folks adapt a 'Master Yoda' riding position and can be comfy all day long.

If you need more input it will follow, but ultimately, this will be YOUR bike after you sort out the various issues, and fix them to your satisfaction.

Overall the folks will say ... 'Ride more - worry less' which often works best. Enjoy your new ride!
@RD:

Thanks for the thoughts . . . I did see a few of these "TPS" threads on the forum here before posting mine . . . did seem like that was relating to Gen3?? But, it does seem like something is "getting worse" as far as ride-ability goes rather than something that I can "get used to" . . . it would be "nice" if something like replacing a part would be the "solution" . . . possibly cheaper than getting a new bike and starting again on the "go through the bike and make in mine" process . . . .

I briefly read through one of the TPS threads where the gent from the UK described his "calibrate the TPS" procedure, but I didn't see whether he had bought a new sensor, or was just re-calibrating the existing part?? Is there a diagnostic code or way to test the part **before** buying what is likely to be a not cheap unit? From what I remember it didn't seem to be a "pop the part out and pop the new one in and you are good to go" . . . seemed slightly complicated . . . . I had a stealer do the TBS and everything except the valve check only 5K ago, sometime last year . . . don't know if they did any computer analysis of the system, but nothing was said about, "Hey man, your TPS is going bad, you're going to need to address it, it's a known FJR issue . . ."???

Seems hard to find mechanics who actually know how to work on the FJR here, had to go to two dealers just to find someone who knew how to bleed the linked brake system . . . the independent guy I mentioned in the previous post wouldn't work on it and referred me to "a Yamaha dealer" . . . but, then one of the other guys there described the process and said, "You have to know what you are doing . . ." meaning . . . wasn't worth it to bill for any price . . . ???

M

 
Yamaha is not going to be much help on your rideability issues,the Gen II bikes were born and delivered that way.I solved it on my '07 with a Power Commander,G2 throttle tube,clutch soak and other minor tweaks.The Gen II FI smoothness can be improved quite a bit but probably still fall short of your ZG.

 
Before you start looking for a fix, have someone who really knows FJRs take yours for a ride. They should pretty quickly be able to tell you if behavior is normal or not. If not normal, something is "broken" and needs to be fixed. It is useless to debate what might possibly be "wrong" until it is certain that something is amiss.

If the verdict is that operation is "normal" (for a later GenII), then you have three choices:

1) Take some time to get used to it. Each bike has its own character and will take some miles to get fully used to it.

2) Sell it and buy something more to your liking.

3) Try some of the "smoothing" fixes such as a Power Commander and G2 throttle tube.

Note: As far as I know, there is currently no "ECU flash" available for GenII FJRs. There have been some discussions and apparently someone is working on it but I haven't heard of anything being ready to go.

Edit: See https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/174404-ivans-ecu-flash/?hl=flash

 
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Yamaha is not going to be much help on your rideability issues,the Gen II bikes were born and delivered that way.I solved it on my '07 with a Power Commander,G2 throttle tube,clutch soak and other minor tweaks.The Gen II FI smoothness can be improved quite a bit but probably still fall short of your ZG.
@jazsr:

Thanks for your time on this, yep, I was looking at the stock torque curve for the FJR on what I think is the "Ivan" site, and it does look like several "trough's" in the torque on the way to 5K that **might** explain what I'm feeling, but doesn't explain the "riding down the road" experience, or the why does it take so much turning of the throttle to get it over 55 experience . . . ??

Is this the first fuel injected bike you have owned?
@hppants:

This is the first FI I have owned, but not the first I have ridden; I twice rented an 08 Konk 14 and put about 600 miles on it each time, and never had any complaint about the FI experience, very smooth bike, actually went over 55 mph . . . only thing that dissuaded me from it was like all Konk's it's a stone to roll around w/o power, and the variable valve timing service cost . . . . The FJR is lighter by far than the 14 and more basic for maintenance, but the comparo on FI modulation is not great for the stock, Gen2 FJR . . . .

Before you start looking for a fix, have someone who really knows FJRs take yours for a ride. They should pretty quickly be able to tell you if behavior is normal or not. If not normal, something is "broken" and needs to be fixed. It is useless to debate what might possibly be "wrong" until it is certain that something is amiss.
If the verdict is that operation is "normal" (for a later GenII), then you have three choices:

1) Take some time to get used to it. Each bike has its own character and will take some miles to get fully used to it.

2) Sell it and buy something more to your liking.

3) Try some of the "smoothing" fixes such as a Power Commander and G2 throttle tube.

Note: As far as I know, there is currently no "ECU flash" available for GenII FJRs. There have been some discussions and apparently someone is working on it but I haven't heard of anything being ready to go.

Edit: See https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/174404-ivans-ecu-flash/?hl=flash
@RossKean:

Thanks also to you, those are all good questions/suggestions . . . the only problem with the first suggestion is, this is LA, lots of people around but nobody really knows anybody, and then among those people, nobody seems to really know the FJR . . . . So, for now I'm left with my own impressions; which, these impressions don't show up on a ride around the block, like I said last Saturday I rode the bike around in the canyon/mountains/freeways for two hours . . . and, I've had the bike for 4 years . . . . In some sense one bike is the same as another, they all take some work to develop the relationship, and lately I don't have a lot of spare change to throw at the bike, which I did do with my ZG10 to get it better and better . . . so I've just put a Bill Mayer saddle on the 09 . . . tried to keep it on schedule for services . . . .

I am interested to investigate the TPS idea, might be causing some drive-ability issues that translates into non-smooth acceleration, "glitchiness" . . . and maybe breaking loose with a few dollars for a throttle tube . . . and see how she behaves after that . . . ?????

 
Some times it is how we describe an issue to others that adds to the confusion. Although you may not have a lot of other FJR owners nearby to assist, perhaps you can connect with an Beamer, Connie, or Wing driver that can ride your bike and have them compare it to theirs and have them describe to you what they feel. It may be enlightening.

I don't have my gen2 07' model anymore, but I did have throttle issues with it. To the point I would not sell it to anyone else, and the dollars kept stacking up as I have no tools and no shop to work on bikes, so the local Yamaha dealer did all the work. After warming up, and starting to launch, just twist the throttle enough to prevent stalling and off it would go jumping pass 3-4K rpm and then when backing off the throttle it came all the way back down to idle with a jerk. In neutral, advance the throttle smoothly and slowly it would jump from 1,500 rpm to above 3k rpm, and was impossible to hold any rpm (other than idle) steady. I had many bikers and mechanics try the throttle, none could smoothly advance the throttle, it just was right.

Hours and hours later after working on the TPS and doing multiple TBS's, and other stuff, there was some minor improvements but they were also sporadic. This was over a 4 month period with the bike in and out of the shop and the last time in the shop for over 5 weeks! Then the battery went dead enough it wouldn't start (turn over). When I went to pull the battery, some of the leads on the positive terminal were corroded and the post bolt was loose! Oops! I hadn't check it because I question the dealer several times about checking the system including the battery, charging and battery condition. Embarrassing for the dealer and as well for me, because this is something I should have checked first myself and not having tools or a shop is no excuse for this minor inspection. Anyway, all the bad throttle stuff was instantly gone after replacing the battery, cleaning the wiring and tightening down both post.

So maybe this isn't your issue, and although I no longer own an FJR, still it is a great bike and it may not have the smoothest throttle, but it also isn't near the worse, actually pretty good in my option. So, I have no suggestions how to fix your problems, just suggesting you find a friend or club that have some member help you with at least a comparison to their rides and the terms they use to describe your issues. That might help you in your quest for a fix.

 
TL:DR, Butt-

I like my bars stock, in the middle position, and am RELAXED whilst I ride.

My '07s were herky-jerky 'til I dun got me a Power Commander FC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynojet-Power-Commander-FC-Fuel-Controller-FC22017-Yamaha-FJR1300AE-2006-2009/392189509775?epid=662531616&hash=item5b5051008f:g:YoAAAOSwCVtcC~NL:rk:1:pf:0

They're reasonably priced and fattening up the bottom really helps the throttle response.

You were very wise to choose the FJR over a C14, more range outta a tank of fuel, longer valve adjusts intervals, and when you do check/adjust 'em it's much easier.

 
@Eagle: Thanks for the thoughts . . . yep while I was at the seemingly only dealer that knows how to bleed the brake system for "1.5 hours of valuable tech time" . . . we decided to put a new battery into it . . . professionally . . . that part should be good. I do agree that often a new battery will drastically improve a bike . . . .

@BanjoBoy: Thanks for that link, price does seem to be reasonable enough . . . might get there after checking the TPS thing??? But, yeah, the C-14 is more of an Interstate Rocket type of bike, which I'm generally staying in CA on two or even 4 wheels . . . no time or $$ to go further. At the time it seemed like the sporty-sport-tour of the FJR would be a good fit . . . soon after I bought it the better half "decided" she was over riding . . . makes the FJR a tad over-qualified for local canyon riding . . . still have to get the weird throttle experience out of the quotient . . . don't understand how Yammie gets away with it . . . ????

 
Why don't you check around and see if there is an FJR club in your area? I would be surprised if there wasn't. Or you could go for a thousand mile ride north to my location and I'll ride your bike. Maybe pour in a bottle of Chevron Techron when you begin your ride north. I'll keep the lights on for you. lol..lol..

 
TL:DR, Butt-I like my bars stock, in the middle position, and am RELAXED whilst I ride.

My '07s were herky-jerky 'til I dun got me a Power Commander FC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynojet-Power-Commander-FC-Fuel-Controller-FC22017-Yamaha-FJR1300AE-2006-2009/392189509775?epid=662531616&hash=item5b5051008f:g:YoAAAOSwCVtcC~NL:rk:1:pf:0

They're reasonably priced and fattening up the bottom really helps the throttle response.

You were very wise to choose the FJR over a C14, more range outta a tank of fuel, longer valve adjusts intervals, and when you do check/adjust 'em it's much easier.
@BanjoBoy:

Since I'm **cheap** I'll prolly go throttle tube first; but if I go PowerCommander, I recall seeing something about "programmed for smoothness" as being something that has to be . . . programmed . . . is that a "homeowner" type of job, any old laptop can do it, or, best left to professionals who actually have experience and would know what "fattening up the bottom" means . . . or "tuning for smoothness" is a known mapping???

Why don't you check around and see if there is an FJR club in your area? I would be surprised if there wasn't. Or you could go for a thousand mile ride north to my location and I'll ride your bike. Maybe pour in a bottle of Chevron Techron when you begin your ride north. I'll keep the lights on for you. lol..lol..
@jammess:

Leaving in a few minutes . . . I'll stop and get some Techron on the way . . . . I do have an old friend who lives somewhere along the Oregon coast, could make a two-fer out of it . . . . I don't think there is any FJR club around here, like in the old COG days, if you had the stones to ride a Concours around to all the moto roads another COGer was coming over and making sure you were in COG or at least ToS and doing the rides with them . . . that was back in the 90's, and even COG doesn't seem too active here . . . never had an FJR guy come over to me, except for the guy that sold me the bike at the Rock Store . . . . Everybody is busy in LA, the only guys that can afford to ride are working for Hollywood $$$$$ no tyne for FOG rides . . . .

 
TL:DR, Butt-I like my bars stock, in the middle position, and am RELAXED whilst I ride.

My '07s were herky-jerky 'til I dun got me a Power Commander FC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynojet-Power-Commander-FC-Fuel-Controller-FC22017-Yamaha-FJR1300AE-2006-2009/392189509775?epid=662531616&hash=item5b5051008f:g:YoAAAOSwCVtcC~NL:rk:1:pf:0

They're reasonably priced and fattening up the bottom really helps the throttle response.

You were very wise to choose the FJR over a C14, more range outta a tank of fuel, longer valve adjusts intervals, and when you do check/adjust 'em it's much easier.
@BanjoBoy:

Since I'm **cheap** I'll prolly go throttle tube first; but if I go PowerCommander, I recall seeing something about "programmed for smoothness" as being something that has to be . . . programmed . . . is that a "homeowner" type of job, any old laptop can do it, or, best left to professionals who actually have experience and would know what "fattening up the bottom" means . . . or "tuning for smoothness" is a known mapping???

Why don't you check around and see if there is an FJR club in your area? I would be surprised if there wasn't. Or you could go for a thousand mile ride north to my location and I'll ride your bike. Maybe pour in a bottle of Chevron Techron when you begin your ride north. I'll keep the lights on for you. lol..lol..
@jammess:

Leaving in a few minutes . . . I'll stop and get some Techron on the way . . . . I do have an old friend who lives somewhere along the Oregon coast, could make a two-fer out of it . . . . I don't think there is any FJR club around here, like in the old COG days, if you had the stones to ride a Concours around to all the moto roads another COGer was coming over and making sure you were in COG or at least ToS and doing the rides with them . . . that was back in the 90's, and even COG doesn't seem too active here . . . never had an FJR guy come over to me, except for the guy that sold me the bike at the Rock Store . . . . Everybody is busy in LA, the only guys that can afford to ride are working for Hollywood $$$$$ no tyne for FOG rides . . . .
You really don't even need a laptop. I installed the PC app, and downloaded a couple "maps" but don't even use 'em. There's four dials; the 1st one selects the map, (I just leave that on one- stock pipe.) then the other ones are for your RPM range in thirds. There "stock" map is already "fatter" than Yamaha's "stock" so I have the first third, a tad rich, and the second and third thirds less rich. If you get one, just copy what I got here, 'n yer throttle will be way smoother. (Though I lived with the twitchy throttle for 5 yrs 'n 100K. You just gotta stay relaxed, keep yer elbows loose, 'n low, and go!)

eV5uBTv.jpg


 
@BanjoBoy:

Thanks for that post, jumping out of town in a few minutes, but wanted to post back and say "thanks" . . . it's not overly clear where those "crosses" are pointed but, if and when I get there and need further insight, I'll post back on it.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and the forum folks,

M

 
I had two 07's. The first one had all the negatives you cite. After getting rid of that one and buying another with low miles and already having a PC and throttle fix I had no issues.

 
Since I'm **cheap** I'll prolly go throttle tube first; but if I go PowerCommander, I recall seeing something about "programmed for smoothness" as being something that has to be . . . programmed . . . is that a "homeowner" type of job, any old laptop can do it, or, best left to professionals who actually have experience and would know what "fattening up the bottom" means . . . or "tuning for smoothness" is a known mapping???
I ordered the PCV for my 2008AE with smoothness map preinstalled. I told the seller of the PC that I need a smoothness map and they loaded it on before shipping. That cured all the throttel problems.

 
@art miller && Enn:

Back in town, no internet, TV, or wireless connections up on the Big Sur . . . thanks for the thoughts . . . I am thinking about the PCV option . . . as the possible fix to the mapping issues . . . . I'll post back with updates as they happen.

 
A per my comments in Post #6, make sure that the current behavior is truly "normal" for that bike and not a mechanical issue!! Otherwise, you are throwing money away and won't end out with a fix. As you are describing the bike's performance, it sounds like there is something actually wrong. May not be butter-smooth but shouldn't be bad to the point where it causes anxiety accelerating up to highway speed!

I found that my '07 (bought as a low-mileage used bike in 2010) was a bit abrupt on the throttle - I was coming from a lower powered carburetted bike. Although it had a Power Commander on it, I removed it after 20,000 miles or so because of what it did for fuel economy. I managed to get used to it without the PC and sold the bike last fall with 185,000 miles on the clock. (Never felt that it was bad enough to be at all dangerous or anything more than slightly annoying in certain circumstances.) The 2011 that I have now is considerably smoother and I have absolutely no inclination to do anything about it to change fuelling/throttle behavior. (I don't think there is supposed to be much difference between '09 and '11.)

I hope you get it worked out to your satisfaction.

 
@RossKean:

Indeed, good advice/reminder . . . it does seem like "something" is worsening . . . is it bike "behavior" or "rider"??? Part of the "problem" is that I was until a month or so back, able to switch bikes from the 86 Carb with less power but smoother all around bike, to the FJR with more "power" but more "jaggy" delivery from one Saturday to the next . . . so I wasn't "consistently" experiencing the same bike all of the time. And, then, trying to not toss dollars at the FJR, etc.

Have to look into the TPS idea and see if that brings any clues . . . then possibly throttle tube, could be that if there was less "stiction" in the throttle it might improve the situation ??? And, then, think about the PCV . . . not really doing too much high mileage riding these days, so mileage isn't as much of a concern as it once was in my riding history . . . .

 

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