ECU Unit

[Zeb]

I have an 08 FJR and the neutral light has been staying on after everything is shut off and the key is out (most likely due to an accident I had ).  The Yamaha dealership said the ECU unit is burned out and that is the issue.  He recommended taking the backup fuse out which will fix the issue (although my clock won't work).  A new ECU unit is $1000, so that's why he suggested that.

I will look around for a used unit, but in the meantime is there anything I need to be concerned with if I do not replace the ECU unit?

Thanks

 

[escapefjrtist]

I'm digging waaaay back, but IIRC the multi-function relay can also cause strange symptoms. From your description it sounds like the bike runs and rides okay? Any other weirdness going on?

~G

Edit: New ECU is $807 from Stadium Yamaha. Check eBay for used too. 

 

[Zeb]

Hey G,

No other issues.  Just replaced the headlights and front plastics.

I found a few used ones on eBay for around $150-200.

 

[mcatrophy]

I think it most unlikely that the ECU has "burnt out". Much more likely, as escapefjrtist says above, that it is to do with damage under the front fairing. In some years, that multifunction relay he mentions is mounted right at the front of the front frame, could easily be affected by anything that damaged the headlight area. Pictures below from my 2006.

(Click on image for larger view)

The multifunction relay is the lump in the centre of the picture.



The ignition light remains on until any auto-retract of the screen has finished. Is it possible that is not lowering fully? If not already disabled, it might be worth removing the auto-retract connector, see if that makes a difference.

Picture shows the auto-retract connection undone.

 

[RossKean]

I agree with mcatrophy.  The neutral light stays on until windshield fully retracts. Probably a microswitch to sense?  Anyway, check it out.  I doubt it is the ECU but a relay is also a possibility. 

 

[Bounce]

Hey G,

No other issues.  Just replaced the headlights and front plastics.

I found a few used ones on eBay for around $150-200.

eBay is a crap shoot. There are a lot of people out there selling "marginal" electronics to the naive/trusting.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I've got an ECU from my '06 that I've posted for sale.  Its the original unit and does not have the altitude fix.

 

[mcatrophy]

To add to RossKean's post about microswitches, the lower microswitch is also in quite a vulnerable position on the bottom of the slider.

(Click on any image for a larger view)

Front view of mechanism



View taken from almost underneath the (bike's) right hand slider, looking up



Centre of the above picture



The switch, the operating peg or even the slider could easily be damaged in a frontal collision.

 

[philter]

eBay is a crap shoot. There are a lot of people out there selling "marginal" electronics to the naive/trusting.

Ebay will ALWAYS allow you to get your money back if you are not happy, to the point that many people scam honest Ebay sellers using this tactic. Buy what you want, pay with Paypal, and if you complain you will get your money back, though you will have to ship it back on your nickel. The only way this is counter-intuitive is if you are buying something large or heavy and it will cost you a fortune to ship it back.

 

[12tinker]

I think it most unlikely that the ECU has "burnt out". Much more likely, as escapefjrtist says above, that it is to do with damage under the front fairing. In some years, that multifunction relay he mentions is mounted right at the front of the front frame, could easily be affected by anything that damaged the headlight area. Pictures below from my 2006.

(Click on image for larger view)

The multifunction relay is the lump in the centre of the picture.



The ignition light remains on until any auto-retract of the screen has finished. Is it possible that is not lowering fully? If not already disabled, it might be worth removing the auto-retract connector, see if that makes a difference.

Picture shows the auto-retract connection undone.

curious about "ignition light remains on"

When I turn the key to off on my '06, all lights and screen goes dark and windshield continues it's travel to bottom

 

[mcatrophy]

curious about "ignition light remains on"

When I turn the key to off on my '06, all lights and screen goes dark and windshield continues it's travel to bottom

Clarification: it's the neutral light that remains on (assuming the bike is in neutral) until the screen has finished its travel. Sorry for saying "ignition light".

 

[12tinker]

On my '06 all dash illumination off after removing key and screen continues it's decent.  Ohh, wait, as mine is an AE it's in 1st gear! I'm gonna try with it in neutral, hmnn...

 

[PhatAir4Me]

Following... this year I noticed a few times now that my Nuetral light will be on five minutes after pulling the key, I also had a bit of an issue removing the key a couple of times and figured they were related. I graphited the ignition which helped with the sticky lock but have still had the neutral light quirk. I also noted some difficulty in getting the wind screen to go up when I had the bike on the center stand and I was washing it, again I chalked it up to the ignition switch.  I guess I better get into fix mode before I end up getting stranded away from home!

 

[12tinker]

PhatAir4Me,

no ignition switch recall done or rubber seal strip fallen into windshield slide track? Lots of time to get that worthless bugger pulled out

 

[Auburn]

Following... this year I noticed a few times now that my Nuetral light will be on five minutes after pulling the key, I also had a bit of an issue removing the key a couple of times and figured they were related. I graphited the ignition which helped with the sticky lock but have still had the neutral light quirk. I also noted some difficulty in getting the wind screen to go up when I had the bike on the center stand and I was washing it, again I chalked it up to the ignition switch.  I guess I better get into fix mode before I end up getting stranded away from home!

Might want to clean the track the slide runs up and down on, then grease it.  I have had to do mine a couple of times over the years.  Amazing how much grit and grime builds up in there.

 

[Zeb]

I think it most unlikely that the ECU has "burnt out". Much more likely, as escapefjrtist says above, that it is to do with damage under the front fairing. In some years, that multifunction relay he mentions is mounted right at the front of the front frame, could easily be affected by anything that damaged the headlight area. Pictures below from my 2006.

(Click on image for larger view)

The multifunction relay is the lump in the centre of the picture.



The ignition light remains on until any auto-retract of the screen has finished. Is it possible that is not lowering fully? If not already disabled, it might be worth removing the auto-retract connector, see if that makes a difference.

Picture shows the auto-retract connection undone.

Thanks for all the feedback.  Sorry I haven't checked back with this thread in awhile.  I've been out riding!  That could be the issue....maybe the mechanic at the Yamaha dealership wasn't too thorough...?  

Anyway, the auto retract was disabled when I bought the bike.  After my accident, the windshield motor worked but a piece on the front was broken so I bought a used one in working condition to replace.  Currently there still is no auto retract.  

In the meantime, is there any issue (other than my clock not working) of having a disabled ECU?

 

[mcatrophy]

In the meantime, is there any issue (other than my clock not working) of having a disabled ECU?

The instruments are all part of what Yamaha refer to as the "Multi-function meter". It is this that determines the neutral light and so on. The ECU is a separate black box that sits under your saddle, that is most unlikely to be relevant to your issues.

Again, I also think it unlikely that the multi-function meter is the cause of your problem unless it was physically damaged in your incident. Much more likely to be something external to it, particularly the multifunction relay, which is in a vulnerable place and has much of the relevant wiring going through it.

The backup fuse does supply the odometer, so your miles won't be recorded, generally not a good thing. I don't know how much else it supplies, does the speedometer work? If not, I suspect the bike would be considered illegal (certainly the case in the UK), and it is very difficult to know how fast you are going on an FJR, so unwise to ride if it isn't working. Does it supply the fuel gauge? That could be embarrassing if that doesn't work - at this stage the trip won't work either so you will have no idea how far you've been on this tank of petrol. (Reminds me of my old Tiger Cub days, rock the bike, judge how much fuel you have by listening to it sloshing in the tank!)

If you do change the multi-function meter (which I suspect is what your shop was referring to, not the ECU), do make sure the odometer reading of the old unit and the replacement unit are recorded.

 

[FJR Flyer]

Also have a NIB OEM instrument cluster for sale.  See my previous post, above.

 

[Zeb]

Thanks for the reply!   

Everything works on my dash except for the clock and my trip odometer.  Speedo works, odometer works, temp works, fuel gauge works.

The instruments are all part of what Yamaha refer to as the "Multi-function meter". It is this that determines the neutral light and so on. The ECU is a separate black box that sits under your saddle, that is most unlikely to be relevant to your issues.

Again, I also think it unlikely that the multi-function meter is the cause of your problem unless it was physically damaged in your incident. Much more likely to be something external to it, particularly the multifunction relay, which is in a vulnerable place and has much of the relevant wiring going through it.

The backup fuse does supply the odometer, so your miles won't be recorded, generally not a good thing. I don't know how much else it supplies, does the speedometer work? If not, I suspect the bike would be considered illegal (certainly the case in the UK), and it is very difficult to know how fast you are going on an FJR, so unwise to ride if it isn't working. Does it supply the fuel gauge? That could be embarrassing if that doesn't work - at this stage the trip won't work either so you will have no idea how far you've been on this tank of petrol. (Reminds me of my old Tiger Cub days, rock the bike, judge how much fuel you have by listening to it sloshing in the tank!)

If you do change the multi-function meter (which I suspect is what your shop was referring to, not the ECU), do make sure the odometer reading of the old unit and the replacement unit are recorded.