Day 8 Gunnison, CO to Eagle's Nest, NM
We spent the night just outside of Gunnison at the Water Wheel Inn. It was an unremarkable stay, but not too bad for the money and I would stay there again. We woke up that morning to some frost on the seats of the bikes. The temperature was hovering around 34 degrees when we pulled out of the parking lot.
But it was an otherwise gorgeous day and it wasn't long before the temp had risen to around 45 degrees. I'm usually comfortable on the FJR at 40 and above so this was no big deal. We headed west on US 50 for a few miles before turning south on the beautiful CO 149 towards Lake City.
Did I not say it was a beautiful day???
I would loved to have just sat right there in that spot, sipping a cup of coffee while staring out over that water all morning. But we had a good 475 miles or so ahead of us that day. No time to burn, so we might as well burn up CO 149! We stopped for a warm up coffee in Lake City and as we were headed out of town Hondapotamus found something he wanted to ride instead.
Actually, he spotted that little spindle ride as we were passing through Lake City and told me in the head set that he and some of his motocross buddies had actually been on that a few years before when they were in Colorado riding the back country trails. So we stopped long enough for him to relive his childhood....
Then it was up Mesa Seco towards Baldy Cinco through snow flurries!!! It's hard to make them out in this photo but here it was May 27th and it was freaking snowing on us!
That was bizarre, but we kept on climbing and while I wish we had had time for El Durango Cinco to stop at Baldy Cinco, we were moving on out through the Slumgullion Pass!
Then came a really cool stop. Just after crossing the continental divide at Spring Creek Pass, we came upon the headwaters of the Rio Grande River. This is the point, where as the marker states, the Rio Grande begins it's 1,885 mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. It was an awesome experience being in this spot, as I have seen the Rio Grande at various points along that long journey to the gulf, but to be at the headwaters just felt special to me.
We headed on down to the old mining town of Creede in search of some brunch.
Looks like the House of Hooch and Fine Drinkables is in search of a new owner...
But we found just what we were looking for at MJ's Cafe.
After my bowl of green chili and a cold snack or two we struck out for South Fork and then on to Pagosa Springs via US 160.
But first, we had to cross the continental divide, again, at Wolf Creek Pass.
This is a great story - I recommend taking the time to read it....
El Durango Cinco, mis amigos
And your's truly....
Britbob said let's get the hell outta here.... and off we went.
It wasn't long and we had to stop to don the rain gear, which then led to no more pics for the remainder of the day.... primarily because this pic broke the camera!
But trust me, the story didn't stop there. We made our way back into New Mexico and then crossed the Continental Divide, for the third time that day, on US64/84 at Sargent Pass on our way to Taos. From there, this story almost came to an abrupt end... As we came down out of the mountains overlooking the desert floor from Tres Piedras we saw a wicked storm out ahead of us. Well, as you've seen we don't make it a habit to stop due to a little rain. As I understand it there was a very large Harley rally taking place in Red River that weekend and the road was covered up with Harley types. Along the way we passed hordes of them pulled off to the side, stopped in the road, whatever, just to avoid riding into this monster we were looking at. Well, as we blasted our way along at 70 mph I'm sure while we were laughing at them they were getting just as good of a laugh at us, because they had a general idea what was in store for us.
Before too long the cross winds hit. That's one thing, but combined with a driving rain takes it completely to another level, couple that with the fact my visor is now completely fogged up and it has become almost impossible to see, I had to raise my shield just to see where I was going. The rain was stinging my face as we started to cross the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge just outside of Taos. This was one of the highlights I had been looking forward to visiting on this ride. But the week prior when we crossed the bridge heading to Durango we decided to wait until we came back with Britbob on this leg. Well, today was no day to be playing tourist as the conditions we simply unrelenting. So we continued on and began crossing this massive, historic structure.
We were traveling to the east and about 3/4 of the way across the historic bridge, while following a shitter pump truck doing about 10 mph, a gust of wind hit me from the north, causing the bike to shift from near the center line all the way to the narrow shoulder. The gust hit me so quickly and blew so hard I swore for a brief moment I was about to take a tumble over the guardrail and down the 500 ft. drop to the canyon floor below. My ass drew up like never before! It was one of the most terrifying experiences I have ever had while on a motorcycle, and probably in all of my 52 years. Obviously, since I am writing this now I didn't tumble over the guardrail into the Rio Grande 500 feet below. But I assure you for that brief moment in my life, I thought I was going to.
Once I made it across the bridge I somewhat gathered my composure and got my wits back, then realized we still had ten miles to the next turn according to the GPS. That also confirmed that was the nearest gas station. The windswept rain was still driving hard from my left, the temp had dropped to around 50 degrees and to make matters worse, it was now hailing pea size hail. I was soaking wet and still behind that pump truck doing ten mph!!! You do the math, 10 miles to go at 10 mph, driving rain and really no way to safely pass. It was a very daunting and frustrating experience to say the least!
I can't recall, but as I remember it ended up taking about 30 minutes to cover that 10 miles, but it seemed like an eternity. When we reached the intersection fortunately there was a gas station at the corner. I pulled in and found one of the few covered areas, as bikers from all over had taken over the gas station to take refuge from this monster. In just a few minutes all of my compadres had found their way into the little station as well. We all traded our horror stories while sipping on the warm coffee the station attendants had provided to us everyone who cared for a cup. It really was one of those moments in life where we all became brothers and sisters and helped each other out, as we had all been caught out in a true emergency situation.
We chatted briefly with a New Mexico State Trooper who was on his service bike, a BMW K1200GT, complete with AR15 mounted on the left passenger peg. He had also sought refuge at the gas station, I'm telling you, this was a bad situation. Eventually, the monster passed and we all tried our best to dry out as much as we could before remounting and heading the next 60 miles to our destination for the evening, Eagle Nest, NM.
We finally made it to Eagle Nest about 7:30 and after checking into our $200 Econo Lodge room, yep - the Harley rally was a big deal and it had the prices through the roof. We were actually lucky just to get a room two months in advance! Anyway, we did our best to dry out, get our gear spread out to begin the drying process and by the time we made it into town, EVERYTHING was closed! WTF???? Really? a Friday night on Memorial Day weekend and nowhere to eat in this town at 8 pm??? Well, we found some place that still had the lasagna buffet sitting out and people still at their tables. So they kindly let us in and allowed us to feed at the trough.
Afterwards, we made it back to our plush $200 accommodations, sipped on some Fireball and Jack while listening to the proprietor of the place tell us a few lies. This was actually a welcomed relief from listening to Cornbread's lies we had listed to for the past seven nights!
Tomorrow - we begin to disband this motley crew and say good bye to our friend from across the pond. We have to send him on his way, or better yet, he might have been ready to be on his way, he had been rooming with Cornbread for the past three nights after all.