El Durango Cinco

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Snif, I have reached my quota of positive vote!

Very nice, thanks for the sharing

 
A truly wonderful recounting!
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Day 8 Gunnison, CO to Eagle's Nest, NM

We spent the night just outside of Gunnison at the Water Wheel Inn. It was an unremarkable stay, but not too bad for the money and I would stay there again. We woke up that morning to some frost on the seats of the bikes. The temperature was hovering around 34 degrees when we pulled out of the parking lot.

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But it was an otherwise gorgeous day and it wasn't long before the temp had risen to around 45 degrees. I'm usually comfortable on the FJR at 40 and above so this was no big deal. We headed west on US 50 for a few miles before turning south on the beautiful CO 149 towards Lake City.

Did I not say it was a beautiful day???

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I would loved to have just sat right there in that spot, sipping a cup of coffee while staring out over that water all morning. But we had a good 475 miles or so ahead of us that day. No time to burn, so we might as well burn up CO 149! We stopped for a warm up coffee in Lake City and as we were headed out of town Hondapotamus found something he wanted to ride instead.

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Actually, he spotted that little spindle ride as we were passing through Lake City and told me in the head set that he and some of his motocross buddies had actually been on that a few years before when they were in Colorado riding the back country trails. So we stopped long enough for him to relive his childhood....

Then it was up Mesa Seco towards Baldy Cinco through snow flurries!!! It's hard to make them out in this photo but here it was May 27th and it was freaking snowing on us!

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That was bizarre, but we kept on climbing and while I wish we had had time for El Durango Cinco to stop at Baldy Cinco, we were moving on out through the Slumgullion Pass!

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Then came a really cool stop. Just after crossing the continental divide at Spring Creek Pass, we came upon the headwaters of the Rio Grande River. This is the point, where as the marker states, the Rio Grande begins it's 1,885 mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. It was an awesome experience being in this spot, as I have seen the Rio Grande at various points along that long journey to the gulf, but to be at the headwaters just felt special to me.

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We headed on down to the old mining town of Creede in search of some brunch.

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Looks like the House of Hooch and Fine Drinkables is in search of a new owner...

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But we found just what we were looking for at MJ's Cafe.

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After my bowl of green chili and a cold snack or two we struck out for South Fork and then on to Pagosa Springs via US 160.

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But first, we had to cross the continental divide, again, at Wolf Creek Pass.

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This is a great story - I recommend taking the time to read it....

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El Durango Cinco, mis amigos

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And your's truly....

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Britbob said let's get the hell outta here.... and off we went.

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It wasn't long and we had to stop to don the rain gear, which then led to no more pics for the remainder of the day.... primarily because this pic broke the camera!
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But trust me, the story didn't stop there. We made our way back into New Mexico and then crossed the Continental Divide, for the third time that day, on US64/84 at Sargent Pass on our way to Taos. From there, this story almost came to an abrupt end... As we came down out of the mountains overlooking the desert floor from Tres Piedras we saw a wicked storm out ahead of us. Well, as you've seen we don't make it a habit to stop due to a little rain. As I understand it there was a very large Harley rally taking place in Red River that weekend and the road was covered up with Harley types. Along the way we passed hordes of them pulled off to the side, stopped in the road, whatever, just to avoid riding into this monster we were looking at. Well, as we blasted our way along at 70 mph I'm sure while we were laughing at them they were getting just as good of a laugh at us, because they had a general idea what was in store for us.

Before too long the cross winds hit. That's one thing, but combined with a driving rain takes it completely to another level, couple that with the fact my visor is now completely fogged up and it has become almost impossible to see, I had to raise my shield just to see where I was going. The rain was stinging my face as we started to cross the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge just outside of Taos. This was one of the highlights I had been looking forward to visiting on this ride. But the week prior when we crossed the bridge heading to Durango we decided to wait until we came back with Britbob on this leg. Well, today was no day to be playing tourist as the conditions we simply unrelenting. So we continued on and began crossing this massive, historic structure.

We were traveling to the east and about 3/4 of the way across the historic bridge, while following a shitter pump truck doing about 10 mph, a gust of wind hit me from the north, causing the bike to shift from near the center line all the way to the narrow shoulder. The gust hit me so quickly and blew so hard I swore for a brief moment I was about to take a tumble over the guardrail and down the 500 ft. drop to the canyon floor below. My ass drew up like never before! It was one of the most terrifying experiences I have ever had while on a motorcycle, and probably in all of my 52 years. Obviously, since I am writing this now I didn't tumble over the guardrail into the Rio Grande 500 feet below. But I assure you for that brief moment in my life, I thought I was going to.

Once I made it across the bridge I somewhat gathered my composure and got my wits back, then realized we still had ten miles to the next turn according to the GPS. That also confirmed that was the nearest gas station. The windswept rain was still driving hard from my left, the temp had dropped to around 50 degrees and to make matters worse, it was now hailing pea size hail. I was soaking wet and still behind that pump truck doing ten mph!!! You do the math, 10 miles to go at 10 mph, driving rain and really no way to safely pass. It was a very daunting and frustrating experience to say the least!

I can't recall, but as I remember it ended up taking about 30 minutes to cover that 10 miles, but it seemed like an eternity. When we reached the intersection fortunately there was a gas station at the corner. I pulled in and found one of the few covered areas, as bikers from all over had taken over the gas station to take refuge from this monster. In just a few minutes all of my compadres had found their way into the little station as well. We all traded our horror stories while sipping on the warm coffee the station attendants had provided to us everyone who cared for a cup. It really was one of those moments in life where we all became brothers and sisters and helped each other out, as we had all been caught out in a true emergency situation.

We chatted briefly with a New Mexico State Trooper who was on his service bike, a BMW K1200GT, complete with AR15 mounted on the left passenger peg. He had also sought refuge at the gas station, I'm telling you, this was a bad situation. Eventually, the monster passed and we all tried our best to dry out as much as we could before remounting and heading the next 60 miles to our destination for the evening, Eagle Nest, NM.

We finally made it to Eagle Nest about 7:30 and after checking into our $200 Econo Lodge room, yep - the Harley rally was a big deal and it had the prices through the roof. We were actually lucky just to get a room two months in advance! Anyway, we did our best to dry out, get our gear spread out to begin the drying process and by the time we made it into town, EVERYTHING was closed! WTF???? Really? a Friday night on Memorial Day weekend and nowhere to eat in this town at 8 pm??? Well, we found some place that still had the lasagna buffet sitting out and people still at their tables. So they kindly let us in and allowed us to feed at the trough.

Afterwards, we made it back to our plush $200 accommodations, sipped on some Fireball and Jack while listening to the proprietor of the place tell us a few lies. This was actually a welcomed relief from listening to Cornbread's lies we had listed to for the past seven nights!
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Tomorrow - we begin to disband this motley crew and say good bye to our friend from across the pond. We have to send him on his way, or better yet, he might have been ready to be on his way, he had been rooming with Cornbread for the past three nights after all.
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alright Bandit... you've got my attention now!!! awesome stories and great pictures make for a good ride report! The 5 of you together seem like quite the bunch.

I'm gonna keep my eye on this thread now....

 
Thanks Julie, and the rest of you for your nice comments! I have made an effort to keep the stories down a bit on this report, as it has already taken me almost two months just to find the time to throw this one together. But for the sake of the four great friends that were along with me on this awesome ride I wanted to make sure I memorialized this one for all of us to look back on in a few years and have a good laugh or two. It truly was a pleasure riding with these guys for the entire 11 days I was on the road. All 11 days I had spent with Hondapotamus, who is not only one funny ass dude, he and I have known each other for the better part of 37 years and he is truly one of the best guys you will ever meet, bar none. He and I roomed together every night on this trip and there was not one bad, uncomfortable moment the entire time.

I told you earlier in the report how Britbob and I met and the backstory there. He is a quality individual that I assure you, in time of war or peace, you want this man in your foxhole! As for the other two, Cornbread and LA2Wheeler, we each met at an SFO several years ago and have remained pals every since. Fortunately, we've been able to up the game and ride together more frequently than just our annual SFO visits, despite the fact that they live in Arkansas, over 350 miles and seven hours away. It's hard to find friends like that and I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to spend every single day with this bunch of great guys!

On with the show, I'll try to wrap it up this evening, as the pictures became a little less frequent as we were now retracing our steps back homeward bound.

Day 9 Eagle Nest to Amarillo, TX and The Big Texan, again!

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The picture above was the view out the door of our motel room that Saturday morning. It was cold, but absolutely glorious out! Hondapotamus, LA2wheeler and I were heading out early for Amarillo. The rubber on my rear tire was getting a little suspect, so we decided to blow out to Amarillo and find me a tire. Corbread would ride with Britbob to Albuquerque to return the Heritage Softail and then strike it eastward solo and meet us at The Big Texan later that evening.

Did I mention that it was beautiful out that morning?

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We had a waffle and a cup of coffee or two with Britbob, said our goodbyes and he was on his way. See ya next year partner on our vastly expanded Dixie Shunpikin' '17 Redux!!! Can't wait my friend!

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I think we actually followed Britbob and Cornbread out of the parking lot and began making our way the 350 miles or so to Amarillo.

Looking out over Eagle Nest Lake.

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It's understandable why there was so much fog at the water level...

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Through the Cimarron Canyon and on to Cimarron, then through Springer and out onto the Kiowa National Grassland for our rocket ride back east!

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Despite the ELEVATED speeds, the boys are still with me.... and I wave goodbye to the Rockies as they eventually become a blur in my rear view.

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As we pulled into Clayton, NM we were reminded of the day's destination.

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We passed through Clayton, NM and then on into Texline, down through Dalhart and finally into Amarillo. While we were moving in that direction I called Sharps Motorsports in Amarillo and arranged to have a rear tire installed that afternoon. It came at a premium, but not too bad. Beggars can't be choosy, remember....

So we made it by the time of the 2 o'clock appointment, which wasn't too shabby considering we left Eagle Nest at 9 CST. We got the bike dropped off at Sharps and checked into the hotel early for a much needed change. Only a couple of hours later the tech called and said my bike was ready. So Hondapotamus rode bitch while I piloted the barko lounger the two or three miles to Sharp's to pick up the FJR. While we were out we decided we needed a little refreshment.... This place appeared to have it all....

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It didn't, so after two beers we headed back to The Big Texan to get the party started!

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Typical of LA2Wheeler, always showing his ass!

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So I belly up to the bar and low and behold, I meet a Rush brother! As is usual amongst our clan, we were instant pals.

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We had (quite) a few of these....

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and not long after Cornbread arrived from Albuquerque he and I ended up here!

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The law had finally caught up with us banditos. The law of averages that is, after that many beers the law of averages says we WILL begin to act like fools at some point.

But this guy hadn't had any beer, so I don't know what laws he had broken.... maybe it was just being associated with us. I dunno.

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We finally got the silliness out of the way and got serious!

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I realize I have been rather slack on the food pron during this report. Well, I am making up for it right here!

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This guy was working on the 72 oz. steak challenge.

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Somehow, he managed to pull it off and eat the whole thing. I can not imagine eating a side of beef like that. I had the 20 oz. sirloin my first night through there the week before and it took me two days to recover. On this stop, I smartly opted for the 14 oz. Ribeye.

Then it was off to bed a little early. All of us were beginning to feel the effects of nine straight days of riding, with essentially no days off. To this point we had covered 4,000 miles. Our biggest day had been our first day at 675 and we had a couple of 500 mile days thrown in for good measure. One of our shortest days had been today at 350, but we were all still exhausted. Tomorrow, we head for Greenville, TX, where we'll pay a visit to some very special people in my life.

 
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Day 10 Amarillo to Greenville, TX

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Popcorn Chicken took the pillion seat and we struck out of Amarillo on the morning of Sunday, May 29th. Cornbread was breaking off here and heading back to AR-Kansas, so we said our good byes and off we all went.

I don't know if the camera was taking a hiatus or if it was just mad at me, but there were relatively few pics taken on this leg. Although, at our lunch break Popcorn worked his magic, finally, and coaxed in a young lady.

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Actually, we had a nice chat with her. She had been involved in a serious motorcycle accident only two months prior, but had made a miraculous recovery to this point. She had initiated the conversation with us as we were suiting up in the sweltering 100 degree Texas heat. She commented that she was glad to see us donning our gear, despite the oppressive temperatures. She got it, and for that I gave her all the time she wanted to talk. She went on to tell us about the work she does with wounded warriors. I left with a very good feeling that we had met this nice young lady.

It was a little ironic that we had met her because we were on our way to have quite a reunion of Vets! We were going to visit with my birth mother, who had reluctantly given me up for adoption when I was born in 1964. While serving in the Air Force in 1963, stationed at Gunter Air Force base in Montgomery, Alabama she had found herself pregnant, with me. Well, the military was a tad more strict than they are now and that was not only frowned upon, but it meant immediate discharge. Abortion wasn't an option, thank God! At 19 years old and being discharged from military service, she felt that she couldn't go back to her small town in Pennsylvania with a child, so she felt the best option was to put me up for adoption. There is no question, and never has been a question in my mind, that she did the right thing. At five months old I was adopted by two of the greatest people to have ever walked the earth, God rest their souls now. They gave me the best life anyone could ever dream to have and to my parents I will always be forever grateful. But it never would have been possible had Julie not made the difficult choice to carry me to term then make the very difficult decision to turn me over to the State of Alabama.

Well, I had my own set of personal tragedies while I was serving in the Army at 20 years old. So I resolved at that point to find my birth mother when I came home after my time in the service, and merely say, THANK YOU! Well, that happened at age 22 and for the past 30 years my birth mother, Julie and I have maintained a close relationship.

Although that's quite a mouthfull, there's still more to this reunion story. Not only are Julie and I Vets, but so is Julie's daughter, Stacie, my half-sister and her husband, John. They are both Afghan and Iraq Vets and live just outside of Greenville, TX. So Julie was able to fly down to spend a few days with them and be there for a short visit with us on the way back from Durango. Also, Julie had a son, my half-brother, Tom who was also a Vet. Unfortunately, Tom passed away several years ago at 36 from a heart attack. That should just remind us all that life is precious and we should live every day to the fullest!

Well, the Vet show doesn't end there! Not only would we have Julie, Stacie, John and myself, all Vets at our dinner reunion that evening, my brother Colby (also adopted by my wonderful parents) whom you met earlier in the report and lives in Allen, TX, just 45 minutes away would be joining us as well. He is a war vet as well, He served in Iraq during Desert Storm. But it doesn't stop there! My roommate from my Army days lives in Rowlett, only 40 miles down the road from Greenville. I had not seen Eugene since I left Schofield Barracks, Hawaii 30 years ago. What a treat it was for him to be able to come join us as well.

We all met at a little BBQ place next door to our hotel in Greenville and sat there and swapped stories and memories for two hours, until they started sweeping the floors. It was a memorable night to have so many special people in my life in one room at the same time! I can't even begin to express how it felt to get to spend a couple of hours with every single one of them!

The Vet Brigade! From L to R, my brother Colby, my Army roommate Eugene, moi, my birth mother Julie, my sister Stacie and her husband John

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And then more reunion pics... thank you Julie and Stacie for making it happen!!!!!

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My man, Geno! What a great guy, y'all!!!! It was so awesome to see him after all of those years. I can not wait to visit with him again.

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And with that, I'll wrap up this report. Hondapotamus and I only had 675 miles to ride the next day and LA2wheeler planned to break off from us at Texarkana. So it was just a moving day. Fortunately we had wonderful weather and no problems. We all made it home safe with no issues. It was great to get home to my wonderful wife and my three puppy dogs, who really did miss me almost as much as I missed them.

That my friends, concludes an Epic 11 Day, 5,000 mile ride with four great friends and then closing it out on the last night with five more very special people in my life. So with that, we'll rename this ride, El Durango Diez!

Aidios mis amigos, till next time.....

OH - one last thing - THANK YOU to my wonderful wife, Mrs. Bandit for taking care of the homefront while I was gone and again allowing me the freedom to get out and enjoy this wonderful world and for understanding my need to explore. I love you,baby! You are the best!
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What a great ending to an epic ride.

Again, lots of familiar places on your last couple of days. The road between Lake City and Alamosa (Creede) is where I crashed in October. I admit, when I was reading that part of your story, my palms got a smidge sweaty.

That bridge over the rio Grande gorge is no joke. I imagine it really is 500 feet down. The Redfish, Ramjt, and I stopped there and walked in the field of sage. I think that bridge is a beautiful structure, with it's arch bow under truss.

I've eaten at the Big Texan but it's been years. We passed on it last year, opting instead to ride through Palo Duro canyon. Maybe next year on the way to Yosemite we can stop at the B/T. I'm with you - 14 oz. of medium ribeye is plenty enough, thank you.

On behalf of the FJR Forum, be sure to tell both of your mothers we appreciate what they did.

 
well dang Bandit! that can't be all there is!!!! need more. need more. need more!

looks like you had a great time, good rides, great friends, beautiful reunions, stunning scenery, and coming home with some real good stories.

keep up the good work! I am looking forward to the next RR you decide to write a few months late.....
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The Moki Dugway is an awesome ride,

Your mind cannot comprehend how you can go so vertical in such a short distance. I have traveled the same route from Mexican Hat and it boggles the mind as you approach that vertical wall in front of you.

 
Thank you for the kind comments everyone! I'm just looking forward to the next adventure. No big epic rides on the books right now, just a little jaunt to Arky in a couple of weeks, SFO less than two months away, a Winter time blast to Key West in the works, and in the planning stages for Britbob's biennial visit, currently scheduled for Oct. 17.

Yes, Bearly, the Moki Dugway was definitely one of the top highlights of the ride. Can't wait to go back and experience that one again!

Oh, and on a sad note, the Grey Ghost has given up the ghost.
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My WV/OBX ride in early July turns out to have been her last voyage. More to follow in a different post explaining the details. But in every dark cloud, there is a silver lining. Stay tuned....

 
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