Electric help

[radman]

Need a switched source for battery voltage, needs to be full battery volts, accuracy is kind of important, as this is a monitor. I don't want it running full time, or I'd just hook it right to the battery. Any suggestions?

 

[Randy]

What if you took the + and - wired it through a relay and take the switched lead off of the blue wire on the front turn signals? (the running light wire, not the other color which is the blinker wire).

 

[Fallen Jim Rides again]

Wouldn't Warchilds solution work?

Installing a 12v Power Strip

This is what I am doing. Have the parts and a weekend coming to do it.

Along with a bunch of other stuff.

 

[Warchild]

Wouldn't Warchilds solution work?
Installing a 12v Power Strip

It would work, but is overkill if Rad is only needing a switched source for battery monitoring.

I'd probably use the running light source that Randy mentioned.

 

[Grumpy]

A relay activated by the headlight circuit?

Jim

 

[radman]

I had thought about using the light system wires, just didn't know how accurate the volt signal is. Already using the right side marker as my Cruise power source, and the headlight as the relay signal source for my Hella relay (hi-beam), but never checked the volt numbers.

 

[ionbeam]

When comparing battery voltage to voltage on ignition switched wires I see roughly .3 to .4 volts lower on the switched wires. The voltage is also significantly more noisy on the switched wires. If your voltage indicator is like a Datel I would go with Batt voltage. If you have an LED scale with 1/4 to 1/2 volt accuracy it wouldn't matter much where you pick up the voltage.

 

[radman]

It's a single LED with multi-color capabilities. Volt Monitor

Small, discreet, simple, effective.

 

[ionbeam]

Connect that indicator anyplace. By putting it on an ignition switched circuit it will turn Amber a tad earlier. With Green showing down to 12.0 volts you will be in trouble before it changes color anyway so the switched circuit will give you a bit more advanced warning that you are about to walk home :lol:

 

[radman]

Sounds like a plan. Thx all.

 

[Fallen Jim Rides again]

Prolly overkill, but. . . . if you used the relay system as in Warchilds setup or similar couldn't you connect on the voltage out side along with the wire to the bridge to get the closest to the battery and still be switched?

Rad, be sure and let us know how you like this device. I'm still looking for something for mine. Datel is top of list but wouldn't mind saving a couple of bucks and the Volt Monitor looks to be a simple and functional aid.

 

[Stray Bullet]

Here's what works well for me. Its fast, cheap and accurate.

https://www.cetsolar.com/voltmeter.htm k:

Roger

 

[yamaholic]

Use a relay.

The blue wire on the running lights is the switch wire for the relay. Run Relay + 12V directly to batt+. Run relay output (load) to the batt monitor. Ground the relay and batt monitor to the batt negative.

Done.

I'm using the WC method...same as above but the relay output is powering a distribution block. Then you can put all of your accessories on one common distribution block. Saves from having to stack up a bunch of connectors on the battery itself and makes future additions a piece of cake!

Be sure to put a fuse in between the batt + and relay 12V source!

 

[Randy]

Another small inexpensive voltmeter worth considering (in black, of course). Same concept of yellow/green/red, but, with a few more lights so you can see where you are in the range.

https://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=2695

 

[Grumpy]

I'd just hook it up straight to the headlight circuit. If you're waiting for below 12 volts to show up, it'll be too late anyway.

jim

 

[krashdragon]

Another small inexpensive voltmeter worth considering (in black, of course). Same concept of yellow/green/red, but, with a few more lights so you can see where you are in the range.https://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=2695

I have one of those that also has a gas gauge on my Harley (gasp!)

Works pretty well... also includes red lights showing overcharging....

https://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=harley&ci=2696

It's a little different, but works the same way... and the gas gauge is way more accurate than sotck... and I can see it without my bifocals!

Maybe I should put something like that on my Jeep.... a gauge that actually tells ya something..... naw.... dead batteries are way more fun! NOT!

mary

 

[SouthernCruizer]

When comparing battery voltage to voltage on ignition switched wires I see roughly .3 to .4 volts lower on the switched wires. The voltage is also significantly more noisy on the switched wires. If your voltage indicator is like a Datel I would go with Batt voltage. If you have an LED scale with 1/4 to 1/2 volt accuracy it wouldn't matter much where you pick up the voltage.

My Garmin GPS which is plugged into a Powerlet outlet usually shows .5 volts lower than the Whistler Radar Detector which is wired to the battery. Usually the GPS shows 13.9 volts,and the Radar Detector shows 14.4 volts. Thats with the bike running.

Jay

'04 FJR 1300