How to resurrect Yamaha FJR1300 that's been parked in my garage for 7 years?

[Jammer125]

When you say the wheel is locked up do you mean it has a little movement forward / backward but not full rotation, or do you mean locked up solid with no movement at all??

First, if a little movement, be sure the transmission is really in neutral, not just the neutral light on. OJ beat me to that one.

Second, if locked up solid, something else did change besides re-filling the punkin. The fill and drain plugs were removed / replaced. Check to be sure the correct plugs are in there with the sealing washers. Maybe loosen them a little to see if the wheel turns. Be sure nothing else made its way into the punkin.


dan

Wheel locked up solid with no movement at all. Didn't have a problem moving the bike until this morning.

Yesterday (Saturday) I performed an oil & filter change and then replaced the pumpkin gear oil right after. I then performed the coolant flush fill. This morning (Sunday), once I had the gas tank reinstalled, I then pushed the bike off the center stand to try move it closer to the garage exit so I won't breathe the oil that I put into the cylinders. This is when I first noticed that the wheel wouldn't move; locked up solid with no movement at all.

I heaved it back onto the center stand and turned on the key, which showed it was neutral. I then tried to start the bike and it only briefly turned over due to the bad battery.

I removed the battery after the work above and took it to O'reilly to compare to the one they had in stock; it didn't match. It could possibly be in gear and I'll check that once my new battery arrives; getting the old one out is a pain in the butt without removing the fairing, especially when you're old with poor grip strength.

The drain and fill plugs were put back correctly as the drain plug has a magnet on the end. As a test, I have drained the gear oil from the pumpkin and the rear wheel is still locked up solid.

 

[Oldjeep]

I would ignore the neutral light. Just push it down to 1st with your hand, push a few times to make sure. Then pull up super gentle. Super easy to pull through neutral to 2nd with engine off.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Wheel locked up solid with no movement at all. Didn't have a problem moving the bike until this morning.

Yesterday (Saturday) I performed an oil & filter change and then replaced the pumpkin gear oil right after. I then performed the coolant flush fill. This morning (Sunday), once I had the gas tank reinstalled, I then pushed the bike off the center stand to try move it closer to the garage exit so I won't breathe the oil that I put into the cylinders. This is when I first noticed that the wheel wouldn't move; locked up solid with no movement at all.

I heaved it back onto the center stand and turned on the key, which showed it was neutral. I then tried to start the bike and it only briefly turned over due to the bad battery.

I removed the battery after the work above and took it to O'reilly to compare to the one they had in stock; it didn't match. It could possibly be in gear and I'll check that once my new battery arrives; getting the old one out is a pain in the butt without removing the fairing, especially when you're old with poor grip strength.

The drain and fill plugs were put back correctly as the drain plug has a magnet on the end. As a test, I have drained the gear oil from the pumpkin and the rear wheel is still locked up solid.

While not actually being in neutral would be a problem with starting the engine, the rear wheel being locked up solid is not related to the transmission being in gear or neutral. The rear wheel would have few inches movement regardless of the transmission position due to driveline lash. There is something going on at the rear wheel.

When the ignition is turned on, is the brake light lit? Lift the rear brake pedal to see if it may be stuck in the pressed position. Check to see if the front wheel turns, if the rear brake pedal is applied, the front wheel may also be locked.

dan

 

[RossKean]

Even in gear (assuming the

I would ignore the neutral light. Just push it down to 1st with your hand, push a few times to make sure. Then pull up super gentle. Super easy to pull through neutral to 2nd with engine off.

Even in gear, the bike should rock back and forth a couple of inches. If it doesn't, either the rear brake is locked up or the final drive is FUBAR - this is most unlikely unless something got dropped inside and is jamming the gears. Lift up on the brake pedal. Maybe get a thin flat screwdriver and see if you can push back the brake pads from the rotor.

Regarding the neutral indicator, it isn't foolproof but I don't think that is the problem.

Edit: Dan posted while I was composing...

 

[Jammer125]

Great ideas everyone. I'm familiar with OG's idea about manually putting the bike in neutral as I have done it in the past. I'm unable to find neutral now using this method.

I'm going to give it a thorough inspection per everyone's ideas, especially checking the braking system as I've noticed corrosion around the cap on the front brake reservoir. I've had trouble in the past with the rear brake pedal sticking causing the rear rotor to get hot. Lubricating the brake pedal fixed it.

I'll give an update tomorrow.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Great ideas everyone. I'm familiar with OG's idea about manually putting the bike in neutral as I have done it in the past. I'm unable to find neutral now using this method.

I'm going to give it a thorough inspection per everyone's ideas, especially checking the braking system as I've noticed corrosion around the cap on the front brake reservoir. I've had trouble in the past with the rear brake pedal sticking causing the rear rotor to get hot. Lubricating the brake pedal fixed it.

I'll give an update tomorrow.

First the disclaimer.
Jammer, I'm not trying to offend you in any way, but I know how difficult it is to be objective and fully observant when frustrated while wrestling with an unusual complication. I know you may have already tried some of these suggestions and ruled them out. Since I don't have hands and eyes on the scooter I'm only guessing and some of the guesses may seem redundant or off the wall.

With that out of the way.

I have purchased the correct battery from Batteries Plus in the past, if you're looking for a quick local source.
Same battery for all years FJRs.

With the engine not running and the rear wheel locked up unable to rotate it may be difficult getting the transmission to shift between gears, therefore making it difficult to find neutral. Operating the clutch while trying to shift gears may or may not help.

Have you had the rear wheel off the scooter during this timeframe ?
If the wheel is installed with the long spacer in the punkin missing, the wheel will not turn after the axle nut is tightened. That spacer looks a little like a deep socket with a flange around one end.
Item #32 in this fiche. The dotted outline item between #4 & #5 is where it is installed.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d462f87002275461cb5b/drive-shaft

At this point I wouldn't try to force the wheel to turn until further investigation finds a reason for the lock up. No point in forcing it only to break something unnecessarily.
Perhaps something has the gears inside the punkin jammed or maybe something is binding the drive shaft, can't imagine how that would have happened.

There has been a case or two of a brake line internal delamination allowing the brake to be applied but not allowing brake fluid to return to the master cylinder when released therefore keeping the rear brake applied.
In the linked brake system, there is a proportioning valve and a delay valve after the ABS block. With the scooter sitting for 7 years, there may be a blockage in one of those valves. Not very likely and probably not related to this situation unless maybe the brakes have been applied recently.

You could remove the rear wheel, then the punkin from the swing arm to see if the punkin will turn while isolated from the rest of the assembly. If it is difficult or impossible to remove the rear brake caliper from the disk, then the brakes may be the problem.

Is there a crowbar driven through the seat and rear fender into the tire and wheel??? Photos of that please!!



dan

Nature always sides with the hidden flaw. -- Murphy.

 

[Jammer125]

First the disclaimer.
Jammer, I'm not trying to offend you in any way, but I know how difficult it is to be objective and fully observant when frustrated while wrestling with an unusual complication. I know you may have already tried some of these suggestions and ruled them out. Since I don't have hands and eyes on the scooter I'm only guessing and some of the guesses may seem redundant or off the wall.

With that out of the way.

I have purchased the correct battery from Batteries Plus in the past, if you're looking for a quick local source.
Same battery for all years FJRs.

With the engine not running and the rear wheel locked up unable to rotate it may be difficult getting the transmission to shift between gears, therefore making it difficult to find neutral. Operating the clutch while trying to shift gears may or may not help.

Have you had the rear wheel off the scooter during this timeframe ?
If the wheel is installed with the long spacer in the punkin missing, the wheel will not turn after the axle nut is tightened. That spacer looks a little like a deep socket with a flange around one end.
Item #32 in this fiche. The dotted outline item between #4 & #5 is where it is installed.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d462f87002275461cb5b/drive-shaft

At this point I wouldn't try to force the wheel to turn until further investigation finds a reason for the lock up. No point in forcing it only to break something unnecessarily.
Perhaps something has the gears inside the punkin jammed or maybe something is binding the drive shaft, can't imagine how that would have happened.

There has been a case or two of a brake line internal delamination allowing the brake to be applied but not allowing brake fluid to return to the master cylinder when released therefore keeping the rear brake applied.
In the linked brake system, there is a proportioning valve and a delay valve after the ABS block. With the scooter sitting for 7 years, there may be a blockage in one of those valves. Not very likely and probably not related to this situation unless maybe the brakes have been applied recently.

You could remove the rear wheel, then the punkin from the swing arm to see if the punkin will turn while isolated from the rest of the assembly. If it is difficult or impossible to remove the rear brake caliper from the disk, then the brakes may be the problem.

Is there a crowbar driven through the seat and rear fender into the tire and wheel??? Photos of that please!!



dan

Nature always sides with the hidden flaw. -- Murphy.

Dan

Thank you for the heads up about BatteriesPlus. I just placed an order with them, which I should receive May 2nd.

I put the bike on my easyriser lift and everything is spinning freely (see pic). I think I had an old man brain fart and must have accidentally kicked the bike into first gear when I took it off the center stand.

I think I need to take things slower and use a more methodical approach, one that I used the past when I was a mechanical engineer. You see, I've had mild tinnitus for 20 years. It started when I was about 37. It became catastrophic level after being exposed to a pneumatic hammer drill at work in late 2016. This is the event that caused me to retire early because I could no longer focus at work and I gave up riding as well. Tinnitus really ruined my life and changed the trajectory of everything. Fortunately, I have an understanding wife that has been by my side through it all.

All these years have gone by and I realized that my pride and joy was wasting away in the garage and needed to be brought back to life. I'm hoping once I get it running again I'll be able to take it out for a ride now and then. If not, I will have to put it up for sale.

Thank you for the great information and I will update once I get my battery installed.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Dan

Thank you for the heads up about BatteriesPlus. I just placed an order with them, which I should receive May 2nd.

I put the bike on my easyriser lift and everything is spinning freely (see pic). I think I had an old man brain fart and must have accidentally kicked the bike into first gear when I took it off the center stand.

I think I need to take things slower and use a more methodical approach, one that I used the past when I was a mechanical engineer. You see, I've had mild tinnitus for 20 years. It started when I was about 37. It became catastrophic level after being exposed to a pneumatic hammer drill at work in late 2016. This is the event that caused me to retire early because I could no longer focus at work and I gave up riding as well. Tinnitus really ruined my life and changed the trajectory of everything. Fortunately, I have an understanding wife that has been by my side through it all.

All these years have gone by and I realized that my pride and joy was wasting away in the garage and needed to be brought back to life. I'm hoping once I get it running again I'll be able to take it out for a ride now and then. If not, I will have to put it up for sale.

Thank you for the great information and I will update once I get my battery installed.

Okay, good news!!
Glad you got the wheel / gearbox problem sorted out cause I was running out of ridiculous suggestions.
Glad also to see from the photo that there is not a crowbar driven through the scooter.

We don't know each other, I am not a doctor, and I didn't spend the night in a Holiday Inn Express.
I don't know anything about what medical care you may have sought for your tinnitus or what other hearing related problems you may have. In other words, I don't know what I'm talking about, and you didn't ask, so I'm gonna tell what I think anyways. I know this is a scooter forum and this is off topic for this thread, but I think this might be useful for many of us.

I find that hearing aids help to mask / reduce the tinnitus sounds in my ears and help to reduce the distraction.
I don't turn them up very loud, but they do help with speech clarity.
Typically hearing aids are expensive and may not be covered by many health care plans. But according to a Consumer Reports survey Costco ranks #1 on the list for hearing aids / service / price. I have had good experience with Costco. The customer service is very good, and the hearing aids are very affordably priced ($1,600 / pair).
I don't wear them when I'm riding, who needs to hear the wind noise better, not to mention the difficulty involved with putting a helmet on. You should do what you think is best for you.

I hope you can find a way to return to the joy of riding.


Now back to your local programming already in progress.


dan

edit 4-29-2024 12:15 AM
Oops, sorry. Forgot to make all the usual and customary disclaimers / disclosures.
I do not work for Costco or any of the vendors, suppliers, producers of products sold through Costco and never have.
I do not receive any compensation or other considerations for my testimonial statements from Costco any of the vendors, suppliers, producers of products sold through Costco and never have.
I do not own any stocks or other holdings of Costco or any of the vendors, suppliers, producers of products sold through Costco and never have.
I don't even particularly care to shop at Costco.
Catch 22 applies to anything else I forgot to mention.

dan

 

[Oldjeep]

OK - now that you are back in neutral, sounds like you have a plan.

FWIW - clearly your tinnitus is worse than mine, but music in the background has always helped me ignore it. Had it since I was 22 - summer job where I had a Hughes 500 helicopter landing and taking off next to my head every 20 minutes all summer long. Ear protection would have been a good idea

 

[Jammer125]

OK - now that you are back in neutral, sounds like you have a plan.

FWIW - clearly your tinnitus is worse than mine, but music in the background has always helped me ignore it. Had it since I was 22 - summer job where I had a Hughes 500 helicopter landing and taking off next to my head every 20 minutes all summer long. Ear protection would have been a good idea

My tinnitus is obtrusive and nothing is able to quell it. It is at 12Khz, a discordant mix of about 4 pure tones, static, 10,000 crickets and cicadas screaming in disunion and is always changing by the moment and each day is different. I had hearing aids for a time, but found that they exasperated it and I gave them up. Getting sleep is difficult and a rare good night is 6 hours. Usual is about 4.

My hearing has degraded to where I can't hear anything about 4Khz; the only high frequencies I experience is my constant tinnitus. The tinnitus volume was measured at 73dB prior to my hearing loss; its likely over 80dB now. It makes every family social event a nightmare as I can't handle crosstalk.

But I'm enjoying working in the garage and getting my FJR running again, even if I panic and assume I screwed up. It's giving me something to look forward to every morning.

A calmer approach this morning really paid off.

 

[RossKean]

A bunch of old guys with compromised hearing. My tinnitus is relatively mild and hearing aids do help in some situations. High frequency hearing loss sometimes makes conversations difficult to follow - especially in social situations with more than one talker or any time there is significant background noise or music. Too many years of loud music, motorsports, small calibre target shooting, a summer working in a foundry (all without hearing protection) and genetics... I never ride without earplugs and try to remember them when mowing the lawn or running a snowblower.

Anyway, looks like you are back on track. I would still try jumping it rather than waiting another several days for a battery. (Very little doubt that the original battery is beyond redemption.) Make sure that the new battery is FULLY charged (using a low amp regulated charger or maintainer) before attempting the first start and be prepared that it might not start instantly. Note: Many batteries come dry with a separate acid pack you add yourself according to the manufacturer's instructions. While the battery is partially charged once it is "activated", the charge should be fully topped up before initial use. AGM battery should ideally be charged at a rate no higher than C/10 or one tenth the ampere-hour capacity of the battery (1.2 amps for a 12 Ah battery). Anything less than 2 amps is probably not catastrophic.

 

[Jammer125]

A bunch of old guys with compromised hearing. My tinnitus is relatively mild and hearing aids do help in some situations. High frequency hearing loss sometimes makes conversations difficult to follow - especially in social situations with more than one talker or any time there is significant background noise or music. Too many years of loud music, motorsports, small calibre target shooting, a summer working in a foundry (all without hearing protection) and genetics... I never ride without earplugs and try to remember them when mowing the lawn or running a snowblower.

Anyway, looks like you are back on track. I would still try jumping it rather than waiting another several days for a battery. (Very little doubt that the original battery is beyond redemption.) Make sure that the new battery is FULLY charged (using a low amp regulated charger or maintainer) before attempting the first start and be prepared that it might not start instantly. Note: Many batteries come dry with a separate acid pack you add yourself according to the manufacturer's instructions. While the battery is partially charged once it is "activated", the charge should be fully topped up before initial use. AGM battery should ideally be charged at a rate no higher than C/10 or one tenth the ampere-hour capacity of the battery (1.2 amps for a 12 Ah battery). Anything less than 2 amps is probably not catastrophic.

Yeah, tinnitus sucks and you're fortunate that your tinnitus is stable. Lifestyle catches up to us all in the end.

Thanks for the info on the battery. I'll put the new battery on my trickle charger to ensure that it's fully charged before I install it. I'm waiting for the new battery to arrive as I have the old one sitting on the bench; besides, I don't have jumper cables.

This chat just sparked my memory - my son gave me a Micro-start XP-10 jump starter for my birthday. This might have come in handy if I had remembered it. Yep, I think so.

 

[harper]

I like my tinnitus. It reminds me of being back in the mid west in the summer with all the cicadas screaming. Of course it would be nice to turn them off at will but they're not having it. Lots of things going on in my seventies that just aren't very co-operative. Still above ground, though. Hope you get your FJR above ground again.

 

[DID]

Glad I’ve arrived; you guys are special

 

[Jammer125]

I finally received my battery from Batteries Plus; it almost didn't feel like a battery because I used tothe lead acid types. I used the helpful 'find my bike' battery cross index (it gave me a part number of LIFEP04 51WH) but it's the wrong size - see pics below. The length is correct but the thickness is not. I was so excited to try and start the bike today. Not to be.

Anyone else get the wrong size battery from Batteries Plus and return it because it was the wrong size? I ordered it from the webpage and I am not sure if it came from my local warehouse or not.

 

[DID]

Very aggravating. I’m surprised because I thought lithium batteries are generally smaller and lighter than lead acid.

 

[RossKean]

Very aggravating. I’m surprised because I thought lithium batteries are generally smaller and lighter than lead acid.

The YT14B-BS OEM is much skinnier than most...

 

[Oldjeep]

Very aggravating. I’m surprised because I thought lithium batteries are generally smaller and lighter than lead acid.

Lighter yes. Some are not smaller, cases made to mimic other lead acid batteries. Some like the Shorai are very small and you pad them out with foam stickers.

 

[Dan Cooper]

I finally received my battery from Batteries Plus; it almost didn't feel like a battery because I used tothe lead acid types. I used the helpful 'find my bike' battery cross index (it gave me a part number of LIFEP04 51WH) but it's the wrong size - see pics below. The length is correct but the thickness is not. I was so excited to try and start the bike today. Not to be.

Anyone else get the wrong size battery from Batteries Plus and return it because it was the wrong size? I ordered it from the webpage and I am not sure if it came from my local warehouse or not.

Jammer, when I suggested Batteries + you had never mentioned you were looking for anything other than the correct replacement AGM lead acid battery. I have purchased the correct sized AGM battery from Batteries + in the past.

I just went to Batteries Plus website and put in every version of FJR listed and always got the correct replacement AGM lead acid battery.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/batte...MIm5b6iub8hQMVYH9vBB1-7QIiEAAYASADEgKvXvD_BwE

CYLA14B4XTA Xtreme 14B-BS 12V 210CCA AGM Powersport Battery​

Weight:9.8 lbsLength:5.91 inWidth:2.72 inHeight:5.67 in


Sometimes it also showed a lithium battery

CYL10088 X2Power 400A Pulse Cranking X2P14 Lithium Powersport Battery​

Weight:2.7 lbsLength:5.91 inWidth:3.43 inHeight:4.13 in.

When comparing the specifications, it clearly showed the lithium battery to be about 3/4" wider than the AGM battery.

dan





dan

 

[Jammer125]

Jammer, when I suggested Batteries + you had never mentioned you were looking for anything other than the correct replacement AGM lead acid battery. I have purchased the correct sized AGM battery from Batteries + in the past.

I just went to Batteries Plus website and put in every version of FJR listed and always got the correct replacement AGM lead acid battery.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/motorcycle?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) Search - Branded - Exact Match&utm_id=10637409292&utm_content=134730788547&utm_term=batteries plus&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm5b6iub8hQMVYH9vBB1-7QIiEAAYASADEgKvXvD_BwE

CYLA14B4XTA Xtreme 14B-BS 12V 210CCA AGM Powersport Battery​

Weight:9.8 lbsLength:5.91 inWidth:2.72 inHeight:5.67 in


Sometimes it also showed a lithium battery

CYL10088 X2Power 400A Pulse Cranking X2P14 Lithium Powersport Battery​

Weight:2.7 lbsLength:5.91 inWidth:3.43 inHeight:4.13 in.

When comparing the specifications, it clearly showed the lithium battery to be about 3/4" wider than the AGM battery.

dan





dan

Dan
I think I could have been clearer in my post. I did not want a lead acid battery as I really preferred the lithium batteries that you recommended here because of their lightweight.

I expected it to fit the FJR1300 because that's what I put in the search tool.

I guess I may to go with the Shorai and pad them out with foam stickers.