Electrical Starting Issue

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gdelabruere

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I just bought this sweet 2004 FJR 1300 with ABS Mint condition. 15k miles I put 200 miles on it so far. Pulling into a friends driveway, I pulled the clutch in and shifted into neutral and the engine quit. I turned the key off and back on. The tack and speedo gauges did't sweep, and fuel pump didn't cycle, but the windshield, blinkers and horn all work. I checked the battery, kill switch. and all fuses I could find near the battery. I looked at the wiring diagram in service manual and it shows a starting circuit relay. Could it be that? I also checked clutch switch. I was wondering if someone else may have had the same issue

 
Try giggling the ignition key around, could be bad/dirty connections. This is just a guess, but the "lighter" circuits maybe getting fed while the others are not...

 
I need to look at the schematic in a few minutes and see if it's a valid question, but for now I'll ask, did the red run/stop switch on the handlebars get switched by accident?

Edit:

I looked at the schematic, it ain't the red Run/Stop switch.

There is a difference between the Gen II ignition switch recall problems and a Gen I switch. The Gen II ignition switch melted the plastic contact carrier which let the contacts tip and, well, not contact. The Gen I had issues with dirt in the contacts. Someplace between '03 and '04 the ignition switch had and lost a drain hole in the bottom, if your switch has a drain hole you can use a can of cleaner with a 'straw' to shoot cleaner into the switch. Some electrical cleaners can be bad for plastic & paint so be careful.

The ignition switches are made in two halves, the top half is the tumblers which are sealed off from the bottom half with the electrical contacts. Shooting cleaner in the top of the switch will do nothing for an electrical problem.

If you check for ignition voltages, the wires at the ECU connector are sealed, the next best place to check for voltages is at the two couplers from the ignition switch which is a PITA. You will have to raise the tank, remove the rubber shield and fish up around the steering stem to find the couplers. When you turn on the key you should have +12 at the White/Blue wire and the Blue/Yellow wire in the red connector and in the other connector at the Brown wire.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I recently R/R my ignition switch to clean it up, I figured it was due. I had it replaced as part of the recall for the Gen2 IS issue, but that was over 160k miles ago.

I was running the awesome Brodie Ignition Bypass kit all along and as you can see it works like magic, there is absolutely zero contact burn on the contacts after all that usage. The relay in the bypass kit recently started failing so it's out of the circuit until a replacement relay arrives. The pics below will give you some idea of what's inside the Gen2 Ignition Switch.

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Years ago my 05 did this or something similar. I snugged up the battery cables and all was well again.
Maybe... But I know of one owner biker geek Who's positive cable was laying atop of the post and ran several days and miles without issue.

I still say it's in the switch.

 
You should get the ignition switch replaced. I had similar problem and had a new ignition switch installed last year. It's a minor pain to have separate key for gas cap and saddlebags. The new ignition switch comes with its own key.

 
You should get the ignition switch replaced. I had similar problem and had a new ignition switch installed last year. It's a minor pain to have separate key for gas cap and saddlebags. The new ignition switch comes with its own key.
When I got my replacement ignition switch, I simply swamped the upper part from my original switch onto the new switch's lower (electrical) part, haven't had any issues in 160k+ miles
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