Electrical woes

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

twistedcricket

You have whiskey?
FJR Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
1,540
Reaction score
37
Location
Omahell, NE
I added FJRandy's horn relay and wiring harness. Shortly after, in fact, on the first ride, the horn on the right was "stuttering". When I parked the bike I disconnected the wires to make it stop (before shutting off the key). On the ride back home, the ABS light was flashing. Now, I'm not sure if that was related to the leaky front fork (left side) or not. Right now the forks are off and being worked on (fluid change, replace serviceable parts)

I used the right side original horn wires to connect to FJRandy's wiring harness for the switch. Power is from the battery. It's own fuse is good.

What I don't have;

working horns

working "N" light

working windshield adjustment

No brake lights (I'm not sold on this test yet; the front forks are off, so I don't know how that will affect the brake switch)

Prior to this work, the 12v glove box accessory plug wasn't working nor was the locking feature of that box. These weren't critical to me before. I've checked the wires leading up to these devices for cuts or crimps and they look good.

The wires that go to the windshield drive unit both have 00.00 readings on my voltmeter whether or not a friend is activating the switch. From that connection back to (100) only some of those wires are showing 12.30v - not the ones that go to the windshield drive unit.

I've checked all of the fuses and they are good. The main relay, starter(?) relay are good.

Swithes on, dash comes "alive" bike will start and shift just fine. Everything, except the "N" light, works on the dash.

Seven days before SFO...grrr

I don't need the aftermarket horns right now. The FJRandy wiring harness has not been "tested" since these flaky symptoms started. When I installed it and tested it (without starting the bike) it functioned perfectly. I did not cut into any wires during the install. None were pinched when I replaced the plastic.

I do have the service manual so reference page numbers or diagrams. There is a common wire to these items, but I'm not entirely sure how to test a relay, or what relay to test.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions

 
I added FJRandy's horn relay and wiring harness. Shortly after, in fact, on the first ride, the horn on the right was "stuttering". When I parked the bike I disconnected the wires to make it stop (before shutting off the key). On the ride back home, the ABS light was flashing. Now, I'm not sure if that was related to the leaky front fork (left side) or not. Right now the forks are off and being worked on (fluid change, replace serviceable parts)
I used the right side original horn wires to connect to FJRandy's wiring harness for the switch. Power is from the battery. It's own fuse is good.

What I don't have;

working horns

working "N" light

working windshield adjustment

No brake lights (I'm not sold on this test yet; the front forks are off, so I don't know how that will affect the brake switch)

Prior to this work, the 12v glove box accessory plug wasn't working nor was the locking feature of that box. These weren't critical to me before. I've checked the wires leading up to these devices for cuts or crimps and they look good.

The wires that go to the windshield drive unit both have 00.00 readings on my voltmeter whether or not a friend is activating the switch. From that connection back to (100) only some of those wires are showing 12.30v - not the ones that go to the windshield drive unit.

I've checked all of the fuses and they are good. The main relay, starter(?) relay are good.

Swithes on, dash comes "alive" bike will start and shift just fine. Everything, except the "N" light, works on the dash.

Seven days before SFO...grrr

I don't need the aftermarket horns right now. The FJRandy wiring harness has not been "tested" since these flaky symptoms started. When I installed it and tested it (without starting the bike) it functioned perfectly. I did not cut into any wires during the install. None were pinched when I replaced the plastic.

I do have the service manual so reference page numbers or diagrams. There is a common wire to these items, but I'm not entirely sure how to test a relay, or what relay to test.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions

What I think that could happen, is that the added relay was defective, it was going on and off. By doing this the current take by the horn was going on and off too, and result is that voltage follows, when current is going high, voltage drops. Maybe that cause thje light on the ''N'' to burn. Now for the windshield that s weird. Try to brng power to the windsheild motor to see if it still works.

 
I'm at work right now so I don't have the schematics in front of me but I studied them quite a bit last night (no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn). I believe fuse 55 on the schematics is the fuse that powers all of these circuits. Follow the brown wire on the schematics to connector 52, an 8 pin connector. It is listed under the description as connector 5 located in the front cowling. If you'll notice, the power from the brake light comes off before the connector but the control power to the brake light relay comes off the same brown wire after the connector (strange). It's a pretty good bet that you don't have working brake lights either. Maybe you can locate that 8 pin connector by the color of the wires coming out of it. If you locate the connector, unplug it, take a volt meter and check the brown wire on the supply side and see if there's power there (not sure how to tell which is the supply side but if neither side has power, then the problem is toward the fuse anyway). If there is power, then you're loosing power somewhere on the other side of the mating connector, or possibly a loose pin in the connector.

 
I'm at work right now so I don't have the schematics in front of me but I studied them quite a bit last night (no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn). I believe fuse 55 on the schematics is the fuse that powers all of these circuits. Follow the brown wire on the schematics to connector 52, an 8 pin connector. It is listed under the description as connector 5 located in the front cowling. If you'll notice, the power from the brake light comes off before the connector but the control power to the brake light relay comes off the same brown wire after the connector (strange). It's a pretty good bet that you don't have working brake lights either. Maybe you can locate that 8 pin connector by the color of the wires coming out of it. If you locate the connector, unplug it, take a volt meter and check the brown wire on the supply side and see if there's power there (not sure how to tell which is the supply side but if neither side has power, then the problem is toward the fuse anyway). If there is power, then you're loosing power somewhere on the other side of the mating connector, or possibly a loose pin in the connector.
I think we're on to something... now I just have to locate the AC Accessory fuse...that little bugger controls the path for a lot of things.

 
I'm perplexed at how a fuse can show 12v on three different multi-meters yet be clearly blown.

15A "Signal" fuse was the culprit. SCRider was, not surprisingly, correct. I disconnected 50 (or 52) and tested each. I didn't have power to the lead that would go to the windshield, which traces back to the "Signal" fuse. How the hell do engineers think? How can that make sense?

Just as much sense as a blown fuse which is able to pass current.... I have a video...I'm going to post it up unedited...

 
Glad you got er fixed!

Chasing electrical gremlins is about as much fun as having to listen to RadioHowie whine about CCTs!

 
I'm perplexed at how a fuse can show 12v on three different multi-meters yet be clearly blown.
15A "Signal" fuse was the culprit. SCRider was, not surprisingly, correct. I disconnected 50 (or 52) and tested each. I didn't have power to the lead that would go to the windshield, which traces back to the "Signal" fuse. How the hell do engineers think? How can that make sense?

Just as much sense as a blown fuse which is able to pass current.... I have a video...I'm going to post it up unedited...
Great!

No more excuses and no more projects before SFO!

See ya in 8 days

 
I'm perplexed at how a fuse can show 12v on three different multi-meters yet be clearly blown.
15A "Signal" fuse was the culprit. SCRider was, not surprisingly, correct. I disconnected 50 (or 52) and tested each. I didn't have power to the lead that would go to the windshield, which traces back to the "Signal" fuse. How the hell do engineers think? How can that make sense?

Just as much sense as a blown fuse which is able to pass current.... I have a video...I'm going to post it up unedited...
Great!

No more excuses and no more projects before SFO!

See ya in 8 days

Yeah, horns are going to wait until June now.

Waiting for the forks to be done and I'll put it all back together...hopefully Saturday (while it's raining :( )

 
I'm perplexed at how a fuse can show 12v on three different multi-meters yet be clearly blown.
15A "Signal" fuse was the culprit. SCRider was, not surprisingly, correct. I disconnected 50 (or 52) and tested each. I didn't have power to the lead that would go to the windshield, which traces back to the "Signal" fuse. How the hell do engineers think? How can that make sense?

Just as much sense as a blown fuse which is able to pass current.... I have a video...I'm going to post it up unedited...
I've seen (read: spent hours troubleshooting) fuses go resistive. With no load, 12V; try to pull some current, no volts. Maybe that's why they made the new-style knife fuses so you can measure voltage on both sides of them when they're in the circuit.

 
Top