Electro-Farkling 2016

[AdamK]

So far the best I've come up with is one of these on the upper mounting bolt for the clutch reservoir?? I hate drilling holes in fairing parts unless they are small, inexpensive ones.

 

[sapest]

Use a RAM reservoir mount, mount the switch to that?

-Steve

 

[escapefjrtist]

I should add too...the switch has to look like it "belongs".

And before you ask, yes, I want my cake pie and eat it too - need form with my function!

--G

 

[AdamK]

I should add too...the switch has to look like it "belongs".
And before you ask, yes, I want my cake pie and eat it too - need form with my function!

--G

You must be one of those form over function guys?? So dangling wires that you just short together is out of the question??

 

[Canadian FJR]

I have read that many folks wire the switch into the high beam circuit. My only concern (for Gen 1 bikes) is that I can save those extra 10 watts by running my aux lights with low beam.

Does this make sense?

Canadian FJR

 

[escapefjrtist]

I should add too...the switch has to look like it "belongs".
And before you ask, yes, I want my cake pie and eat it too - need form with my function!

--G

You must be one of those form over function guys??

So dangling wires that you just short together is out of the question??

--G

 

[AdamK]

I have read that many folks wire the switch into the high beam circuit. My only concern (for Gen 1 bikes) is that I can save those extra 10 watts by running my aux lights with low beam.
Does this make sense?

The high beam circuit is just used as a signal to control the state of the LED lights. It Skene only draws milliamps, virtually nothing from the high beam circuit. The actual power which drives the lights, at least in my case, comes from a separate, dedicated circuit.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Thanks Adam, I understand that but I was thinking about total load.

By not using the high beam as the signal I can run the aux lamps with my low beams and save the additional 10 watts (55w vs 65 watts)

Canadian FJR

 

[AdamK]

Thanks Adam, I understand that but I was thinking about total load.By not using the high beam as the signal I can run the aux lamps with my low beams and save the additional 10 watts (55w vs 65 watts)

Gotcha. These lights are about as efficient as you can get. But if your loads are that close to capacity, that would be the way to go.

 

[AdamK]

George, Here's the triple throw switch and plate I'm going to mount on the clutch reservoir. Some black braid around the wires and some black sealing goo on the switch should make it pretty inconspicuous. Not sure it meets your standards, but I'm going to give it a shot!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks Adam, I'll pass judgement <<

>> at spring Tech Day or over coffee one of these days.

--G

 

[AdamK]

Bought some 18Ga x 4 conductor wire today at Vetco. I soldered 3 of the wires to the switch and then used 4 different sizes of heat-shrink to cover up the solder connections and bare wires. The heat shrink also covers up the exposed portion of the outer sheathing which is gray. Don't want it to stand out too much or George won't approve.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Not judging - getting better!

--G

 

[AdamK]

Here's what it looks like mounted on the bike.

 

[AdamK]

All hooked up and working great! Switch down 0% (off). Middle position night time 20%. Switch up 60% daytime mode. 100% with high beam. All programmable via the high beam switch.

 

[sapest]

Update June 2017

I have discovered, if the lights are wired as I described, this 'feature' -

(Anytime after the dble blink on start up)

If you flip the 'flash to pass' switch twice in quick succession, the lamps controlled by the Skene unit will stay at the high beam setting, presumably 100%. To return the lamps to the low beam setting, flip the 'flash to pass' twice again.

In other words, you can have the headlights on low beam and the aux lamps on the high setting by flipping 'flash to pass' quickly twice.

The lamps stay at the high setting until you dble flip 'flash to pass' again. Even an ignition off/on cycle does not affect the setting.

-Steve

 

[Roguedog69]

Just a thought Adam.

Be careful about the aux lamps washing out your turn signals to oncoming traffic in the daytime.

If your using LR4's, thats over 1300 lumens at 40%. Many/most DRL's are around 800 lumens.

I find a white helmet, hi-viz jacket and amber lenses (bought from Clearwater) on the aux lamps to be very effective in clearing out the left lane.

YMMV

-Steve

Hello Steve, do you know anything about the drls built into the Gen 4 front indicators?

 

[sapest]

Hello Steve, do you know anything about the drls built into the Gen 4 front indicators?

Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing -
In the ES headlight module, there are the headlights and what Yamaha calls "active cornering lights".
Are these the lamps you are asking about?
If yes, all I know is what Yamaha has told me. -
"Active" LED cornering lights with special IMU.
a first on a Yamaha motorcycle
3-LED cornering lights per headlight (6 in total)
lean or bank angle determines how many cornering lights function
shallow lean angle = 1 / mid lean angle = 2 / deep lean angle = all 3
special IMU (inertial measurement unit) provides lean angle data for cornering light operation.

And they come on in sequence when the bike is started.
Here is a photo from the Yamaha Canada web site with everything lit

There are also (at least in Canada) "LED position lights on left & right sides of main headlights".
If you are asking about lumen output, I have no idea.
I dont do much night time riding, I cant say I have ever been able to discern when/if the corning lamps have come on.

Dont know if that answers your question or not.
-Steve

 

[Roguedog69]

Hello Steve,
Thankyou so much for your great reply.
I am actually asking about the front turn signals, we call them indicators here in Australia.
On USA FJRs they are on solid amber when not indicating as DRLs, here in Australia they are not.
The turn signals have two input wires and a ground. One input is for indicating a turn (50% LEDS used) and the other input does nothing here in Australia (the other 50% LEDS).
Any help would be greatly appreciated to get the other 50% to light up when not indicating.
Thankyou
Syd

 

[sapest]

It was “indicators” that tripped me up. I have never thought of the turn signals as DRL’s. To me they are side marker lights and turn signals.
In Canada, this lamp is lit at half intensity while the ignition is on, and full intensity when flashing (signaling). If I understand, this is the behaviour you want.
I am no expert at anything electrical, but here is one suggestion, perhaps others will chime in with a better idea.
Use these instructions to determine which wire does what.
(Unless you already know?)


If applying 12V to both “1”’s in each connector, or each in turn, as described above, doesnt get the 50/100% lamp activity you want, then my guess would be the lamp doesnt support the dual intensity function. A confirmation would be comparing lamp part numbers from Yamaha OZ and Yamaha USA/CAD.
After that its looking at wiring diagrams. Or perhaps thinking of how to bring ignition switched power to the connector that lights the lamp at 50%.
Does that make sense?
-Steve

 

[Roguedog69]

Thankyou so much Steve, Wow, really appreciate you taking the time to respond. You make a lot of sense.
Cheers
Syd