Electronic Cruise Available?

[Shane]

I have had the MC Cruise installed for about 90 days and it has worked flawlessly so far. Yeah it was damn expensive plus I had it installed at a dealer at 79.00/hour. Took 3 hours. How do I justify it. First I suck working on bikes and the frustration of me trying to install any unit is not worth the aggravation. :angry: Second I picked up 2 overtime shifts due to the crime being up in Mpls and it was paid for. I'll take two days of locking up ******** which I still enjoy, :yahoo: over wrenching on my bike anyday! Third my right hand goes numb constantly and risers were no help. When I commute 60 miles to work each day this is the only thing that gives me relief. Don't get down on people for spending money on items to improve their comfort if they are not mechanically inclined. I may suck at working on the bike but I don't have a line of people wanting to do my job either.

Too bad you didn't ask for help here on the forum from your friendly neighborhood Minneapolis area FJR roving wrench crew. Radman and I (along with a few of our buds here) have held CC install sessions that would blow your mind! B) Did I mention, no charge?

Glad you like the FJR and the Mc Cruise. Join us at the next get-together, I think Tomnap is hosting in September. We need a Cop on the Crew. :yahoo:

Shane

 

[dpleogs]

Thanks for the offer! I was actually going to try and swing by Radmans house when he hosted his party to try and meet some FJR riders but I got stuck at work. I'm going to try and make it to WI For CFO if it doesn't conflict with my hunting plans. If you guys ever get together for a local ride send me a PM.

 

[petey]

I'm looking for the less exspensive version of the Audiovox controll pad mounting bracket, but cant remember where to get it. (I know Skyway's mount is tops, but little pricy for me) Can someone help?

Thanks in advance.

 

[bramfrank]

My buddy Gary Murphy offers a mirror hole mount bracket that he sells for the Concours that is frugal and ought to work on the FJR (no promises). He'll also sell you the CC module and vacume canister at good prices.

If you do happen to purchase from him please mention that I sent you - not that he has an affinity plan, but I guess he'd get a kick out of knowing that I was operating as his unpaid salesman.

https://www.murphskits.com/shop/shopdisplay...Audiovox+Cruise

I had a bracket supplied by Larry Buck (another Concours provider) on my Connie, but he no longer shows the item on his site - nothing stops you from calling or writing him to ask:

https://hometown.aol.com/lrbuck/BSTindex.html

 

[Spedboy]

I can't believe you lazy crap-whackers have spent money having the Audiovox 'stealer installed'. Way to rip yourselves off. I mean it's only 2 hours of your own time on a Sunday afternoon, with beers! _AND_ it get's done right. OH ****! :blink:

 

[Flere-Imsaho]

got pix of thay spdt mounted?

This single switch does everything I need it to do, and takes the place of the entire CC control pad. The CC is on all the time, so with the CC disengaged, pushing the switch down 'sets' the current speed, or pushing the switch up 'resumes' a previously set speed. If the CC is already engaged, then pushing the switch down = 'coast' while pushing the switch up = 'accel'. I may add a 2nd switch someday to act as master On/Off, but I doubt it. The servo doesn't seem to draw enough current to worry about it, plus it's individually fused on my Blue Sea power distribution block under the pillion seat so it's easy enough to pull the fuse if there's a problem.

How do you disengage the CC in this single-switch setup? Just tapping the brake? And then it only resumes if you toggle the switch again?

Thanks,

-Flere.

 

[dbx]

got pix of thay spdt mounted?

This single switch does everything I need it to do, and takes the place of the entire CC control pad. The CC is on all the time, so with the CC disengaged, pushing the switch down 'sets' the current speed, or pushing the switch up 'resumes' a previously set speed. If the CC is already engaged, then pushing the switch down = 'coast' while pushing the switch up = 'accel'. I may add a 2nd switch someday to act as master On/Off, but I doubt it. The servo doesn't seem to draw enough current to worry about it, plus it's individually fused on my Blue Sea power distribution block under the pillion seat so it's easy enough to pull the fuse if there's a problem.

How do you disengage the CC in this single-switch setup? Just tapping the brake? And then it only resumes if you toggle the switch again?

Thanks,

-Flere.

Exactly. It disengages with a tap of either brake, or if you pull in the clutch (because it senses the sudden RPM change). To resume, just tap the switch again, one way to Resume the previously set speed and the other way to Set a new speed.

 

[Rickster]

any news on the expected release date for the MC for the AE?

as for cost -- I'm sure if Yami offered cruise as an option for $500 -- they'd sell like hotcakes!

still debating-- nep/vista won't work on the 06 AE, looking at throttlemeister - but don't know if anyone's tried it on the AE... Audiovox -- I like dbx MON spdt switch idea -- but if i go that route -- mayuse the location of the euro flasher mounted with the switch travel horizontally -- push with index finger to cancel/coat -- pull to set/accel. OR -- the MC one if it ever gets produced for the AE. Leaning toward the dbx switch and Audiovox.

 

[chornbe]

Here you go, two pics of the switch mounted in the left switch cluster. It's in easy reach of my left index finger without taking my hand off the grip.
...

This single switch does everything I need it to do, and takes the place of the entire CC control pad. The CC is on all the time, so with the CC disengaged, pushing the switch down 'sets' the current speed, or pushing the switch up 'resumes' a previously set speed. If the CC is already engaged, then pushing the switch down = 'coast' while pushing the switch up = 'accel'. I may add a 2nd switch someday to act as master On/Off, but I doubt it. The servo doesn't seem to draw enough current to worry about it, plus it's individually fused on my Blue Sea power distribution block under the pillion seat so it's easy enough to pull the fuse if there's a problem.

Wiring was a piece of cake. In the wiring harness that goes to the control pad, there's a Green wire, a Brown wire, and a Yellow wire. At rest, none of these are connected to each other. For Accel/Resume, connect Brown to Yellow; and for Set/Coast connect Brown to Green. In other words, connect the Brown wire to the switch's center terminal, Green to the upper terminal, and Yellow to the lower terminal. I ran the wires inside the existing loom that runs up to the left switch cluster, so no new wires are visible. The other wires in the control pad harness are not used. I also connected the Brown wire to the Red wire (at the servo unit) in order to put 12VDC onto the Brown wire, although I'm not sure I had to do that.

The switch and rubber boot were ordered from Digi-Key using the following part numbers.

360-1091-ND SPDT Mini Toggle Switch

335-1003-ND Rubber boot, Black

The boot is used to completely weatherproof the switch, and comes in Red if you prefer.

I think that's about it! Easy peasy, and best of all, it all blends in and (nearly) looks like it belongs there. There's enough room in the switch cluster to add two more of these switches beside the one that I added, and there's room for yet another switch in the front of the cluster, just above the horn button where the Euro bikes have the high beam push button.

Credit to BrunDog for the idea.

Ya know... that'd *almost* be worth giving up the adjustability of the windshield for - a feature I *rarely* use anyway. That feature wasn't even remotely a consideration in acquiring the bike.

 

[dbx]

still debating-- nep/vista won't work on the 06 AE, looking at throttlemeister - but don't know if anyone's tried it on the AE... Audiovox -- I like dbx MON spdt switch idea -- but if i go that route -- mayuse the location of the euro flasher mounted with the switch travel horizontally -- push with index finger to cancel/coat -- pull to set/accel. OR -- the MC one if it ever gets produced for the AE. Leaning toward the dbx switch and Audiovox.

I considered the spot you're talking about. It looks like it would work just fine, but there isn't much margin for error when drilling the hole for the switch. The last straw was when I convinced myself that I'd come back later and put an On/Off/Cancel switch there, which I have not yet done. Laziness strikes again. <_<

 

[dbx]

Here you go, two pics of the switch mounted in the left switch cluster. It's in easy reach of my left index finger without taking my hand off the grip.

...

This single switch does everything I need it to do, and takes the place of the entire CC control pad. The CC is on all the time, so with the CC disengaged, pushing the switch down 'sets' the current speed, or pushing the switch up 'resumes' a previously set speed. If the CC is already engaged, then pushing the switch down = 'coast' while pushing the switch up = 'accel'. I may add a 2nd switch someday to act as master On/Off, but I doubt it. The servo doesn't seem to draw enough current to worry about it, plus it's individually fused on my Blue Sea power distribution block under the pillion seat so it's easy enough to pull the fuse if there's a problem.

...

Ya know... that'd *almost* be worth giving up the adjustability of the windshield for - a feature I *rarely* use anyway. That feature wasn't even remotely a consideration in acquiring the bike.

Depending on how creative you want to get, you could use the windshield switch without even losing the shield up/down function. For example, since you rarely raise or lower the shield, you could make the default operation be to operate the Cruise Control, but say, if you have the brake lever depressed just far enough to light the brake light, then the shield switch would temporarily go back to raising or lowering the shield until you release the brake lever and the light goes out. This uses a relay, of course, and could use any circuit that's controlled by an existing switch.

 

[2WheelTiger]

You gotta hold the handlebars.

If you have CC, you don't need to hold onto the handlbars.

 

[Last Chance]

Can you say MC Cruise?

MC Cruise (the link).

[SIZE=36pt]$545 [/SIZE]

:blink: :huh:

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...ETC.

And, worth every penney!! :yahoo: ($600+ now)

JMHO

LC

 

[Thug]

yep!

 

[cota95]

I can't believe you lazy crap-whackers have spent money having the Audiovox 'stealer installed'. Way to rip yourselves off. I mean it's only 2 hours of your own time on a Sunday afternoon, with beers! _AND_ it get's done right. OH ****! :blink:

What time should I be at your house Sunday?

 

[Larry]

Well, lets look at it a different way if you are NOT so TECHNICALLY inclined to do the install yourself:

1) Audiovox CCS100

Audiovox CCS100 Unit = $ 90

Skyway's mount = $100

Install at dealer @65/hr * 7 = $455

===

$645

2) MCCruise

Unit itself = $545

Install at dealer @65/hr * 3 = $195

===

$740

The difference isn't that significant if you look at it that way.

Best Regards,

Shane

You make VERY good points.

However,

[SIZE=36pt]$545[/SIZE]

:dribble: :blink: :huh:

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...ETC.

It all comes down to what each individual wants / can afford / ability, etc.

I would love for everyone who thinks the $545 for the MCCruise is priced too high to come out with a plug-and-play solution for the FJR (use the Audiovox CCS100 as a base if you can).

Most riders I have talked to who have installed it said it was a 7+ hour job. Since I can't do it, I have to take them at their word.

Right now I am leaning towards the MCCruise as soon as they have a model for the FJR1300AE.

Best Regards,

Shane

they have one I just installed mine sunday all plug and play

 

[Patriot]

got pix of thay spdt mounted?

Here you go, two pics of the switch mounted in the left switch cluster. It's in easy reach of my left index finger without taking my hand off the grip.

This single switch does everything I need it to do, and takes the place of the entire CC control pad. The CC is on all the time, so with the CC disengaged, pushing the switch down 'sets' the current speed, or pushing the switch up 'resumes' a previously set speed. If the CC is already engaged, then pushing the switch down = 'coast' while pushing the switch up = 'accel'. I may add a 2nd switch someday to act as master On/Off, but I doubt it. The servo doesn't seem to draw enough current to worry about it, plus it's individually fused on my Blue Sea power distribution block under the pillion seat so it's easy enough to pull the fuse if there's a problem.

Wiring was a piece of cake. In the wiring harness that goes to the control pad, there's a Green wire, a Brown wire, and a Yellow wire. At rest, none of these are connected to each other. For Accel/Resume, connect Brown to Yellow; and for Set/Coast connect Brown to Green. In other words, connect the Brown wire to the switch's center terminal, Green to the upper terminal, and Yellow to the lower terminal. I ran the wires inside the existing loom that runs up to the left switch cluster, so no new wires are visible. The other wires in the control pad harness are not used. I also connected the Brown wire to the Red wire (at the servo unit) in order to put 12VDC onto the Brown wire, although I'm not sure I had to do that.

The switch and rubber boot were ordered from Digi-Key using the following part numbers.

360-1091-ND SPDT Mini Toggle Switch

335-1003-ND Rubber boot, Black

The boot is used to completely weatherproof the switch, and comes in Red if you prefer.

I think that's about it! Easy peasy, and best of all, it all blends in and (nearly) looks like it belongs there. There's enough room in the switch cluster to add two more of these switches beside the one that I added, and there's room for yet another switch in the front of the cluster, just above the horn button where the Euro bikes have the high beam push button.

Credit to BrunDog for the idea.

great stuff, thanx much, I'm ready to proceed