I have an 05'. About a week ago, my bike started to die every time time I came to a stop. I would blip the throttle several times, to keep it from turning off, and once under way it would run find. If I pulled in the clutch and coasted, it would also start to die. This went on for several days, but I was hoping it was just bad fuel. I refilled the tank and ran acouple more days only to come out and it would not start. I hear an odd noise on the frist try but subseqint tries just spin over and will not start. The noise will only happen at the first try to start, and wont happen again untill I try the next day. (A couple hours of wait willl not recreate the sound. It must sit for most of the day.) I have run the self diag. on the bike, but there are no codes. I have varified the spark on all cyl. and can feel the injectors fire when turned on using the onboard diag. I do not know where to go from here. I pulled all of the plastic yesterday and checked all of the fuses. They were fine. Upon pulling the tank I did hear what sounded like a presure relief hiss. I tried to start it again to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
Hello and sorry to hear about your troubles. I've not directly experienced the issues you describe, but you might check these as a start in no particular order:
1. Idle speed at 1100 rpms.
2. Battery in good condition, connections clean, and at least 12.6V after sitting overnight. Low voltage is bad. It should rise to ~14V when running - check the diagnostic for voltage.
3. Throttle position sensor on the right end of the throttle shaft internal continuity ok throughout its operating range, and properly adjusted at idle? They do go bad. There's a diagnostic on the bike to generate output resistance values from idle to WFO - they should increase and decrease smoothly with no jumps. This may be an issue and should be checked by you or a tech who knows about their function. The Service Manual describes a testing and initial setup technique that involves measuring the voltage output from the sensor in the closed idle position to the attached wiring that goes to the ECU (about 0.68 VDC). The ECU provides the 5V input power, and reads the returning voltage to determine throttle position. The throttle sensor is just a variable resistor that changes that input voltage to a lower voltage depending upon throttle setting. Measuring the steady change in output voltage as the throttle is twisted can determine if the sensor defective, similar to the diagnostic test above.
4. Run some elixir like Seafoam or Chevron Techron through the fuel system to clean. May help. Won't cure everything.
5. Make sure that there are no vacuum leaks in the throttle bodies or connections between the throttle bodies and the engine. There is a small black cap next to each that is removed to do the synch. They have to be ok. The clamps on rubber sleeves that connect the TB's to the engine need to be snug. No vacuum leaks allowed as that can cause problems at low speeds.
My best for now - others may have better suggestions. The fuel pump briefly pressurizes the system before startup. That may be the noise you hear - listen with your ear on the fuel tank when the key is first turned on.
Any weird noise or performance from the starter - like chattering and slow starting - can be caused by low system voltage due to a bad battery or poor cable connections. Correct as required.
Gary in snowy Fairbanks