Just picked up my new '09 FJR and what a change over the old V-Star. I loved the ride home but have experienced a weird problem. Riding out of the dealership the bike stalled while starting off idle which I just chalked up to my lack of seat time on the bike. This happened several more times on the way home and not always when the bike was at rest. It's happened several times when rolling through a turn (clutch in) then reapplyng throttle. I've been able to dublicate it while stopped by just starting to open the throttle (seems to maybe happen if you 'quickly' open throttle rather than ease it on but that could just be my imagination. with 50 miles on the bike I'm certainly taking it to the dealer to get checked out althought it seems to be doing it less after the first ride (not at all on one ride). I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this on a new FJR and what the culprit was (nice to know when going to the dealer).
Engine dies off Idle
- Thread starter JTrider
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fjrjonesing
Well-known member
Others here, including me, have had this problem. My 08 dies about 20% of the time that I blip the throttle. I told the dealership about it when I had it in for the ignition recall. The mechanic couldn't duplicate it- it is sporadic- but adjusted the idle. It still does it.
This is my 3rd FJR and the only one I've had this problem with. I just don't blip the throttle anymore...
Welcome to the forum. Don't drop it!
Jim
FJerryR
Member
Mine did that and I thought it was from the exhaust I put on. I was told when you crank it up don't touch the throttle for a few minutes, this allows the computer to set up. I don't know, but it seems to work. I have not had the problem since I do that. Who knows??? It is embarrassing at the light when everyone looks at you as if you should be on a scooter. LOL Jerry
bikesniffer
Well-known member
Same here on my 08 as well; adjusted the idle twice already and still have a stall about 20% of the time when I blip the throttle at roll on...
wonder if it has anything to do with the PCIII installed?
Alfredo
PA1195
Well-known member
As some suggest:
1. Setting idle at 1100 helps overcome internal engine friction for a stable idle, and may provide adequate momentum to the crank to allow for a slight drop in RPMs/HP when engaging the clutch without the engine stalling.
2. Run only with warm engine = idle settled at 1100 as a warmed engine will accept a load or sudden change in throttle better than a cold one, and is less apt to suddenly run lean from cold intake fuel condensation.
3. Barbarian mod +4-5 on all will provide a slightly richer idle mixture that may allow a better non-lean transition to a more open throttle, and slightly increased power production at low RPMS just off idle.
4. Throttle cables adjusted with minimum slack prevents any lag in throttle demand via the twist grip versus opening of the throttle body plates.
5. Clutch slipping properly = no grab or forward jerk when shifting into gear from neutral may help prevent sudden clutch engagement, and high clutch drag which can overload the engine at low RPMS/power.
Gary in Fairbanks
1. Setting idle at 1100 helps overcome internal engine friction for a stable idle, and may provide adequate momentum to the crank to allow for a slight drop in RPMs/HP when engaging the clutch without the engine stalling.
2. Run only with warm engine = idle settled at 1100 as a warmed engine will accept a load or sudden change in throttle better than a cold one, and is less apt to suddenly run lean from cold intake fuel condensation.
3. Barbarian mod +4-5 on all will provide a slightly richer idle mixture that may allow a better non-lean transition to a more open throttle, and slightly increased power production at low RPMS just off idle.
4. Throttle cables adjusted with minimum slack prevents any lag in throttle demand via the twist grip versus opening of the throttle body plates.
5. Clutch slipping properly = no grab or forward jerk when shifting into gear from neutral may help prevent sudden clutch engagement, and high clutch drag which can overload the engine at low RPMS/power.
Gary in Fairbanks
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fjrthree
Well-known member
My `08 did the same. Hasn`t happened in about a month since setting idle to just over 1000.
Lowcountry Joe
Well-known member
Never has happened on my 08. Idle was properly adjusted from the dealer. I've installed no mods in the EFI chain nor have I experimented with any other engine mods. I always run premium grade gas in my bikes.
When I start the bike, I always allow it to warm-up at idle until at least two radiator temperature bars are showing. I know it seems like an eternity when you are ready to go riding, but it's really only about two minutes. I don't know if this helps avoid this problem for me or not. Tomorrow, I may take off with a cold engine to see if mine will freak with a throttle blip. But so far, no issues.
(damn thing will probably blow up tomorrow after having said all this)
When I start the bike, I always allow it to warm-up at idle until at least two radiator temperature bars are showing. I know it seems like an eternity when you are ready to go riding, but it's really only about two minutes. I don't know if this helps avoid this problem for me or not. Tomorrow, I may take off with a cold engine to see if mine will freak with a throttle blip. But so far, no issues.
(damn thing will probably blow up tomorrow after having said all this)
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
But only from the unnecessary extra 5 points of octane you're forcing on your baby. <_<
But if it makes you feel good, Opec appreciates it.
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boomerang
Well-known member
Not sure why you want the clutch in while rolling through a turn? Isn't that when you would want the availible power to pull you through the turn? My 06 died one time at a stop sign the first week I had it with only a couple hundred miles on it but,has never done it again. But then again I did bump my idel speed up just a little after that and that seemed to take care of it.
Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
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Interesting problem, if it were carbureted I'd say it's accelerator pump was faulty.
Silly question, why "blip" the throttle? What function does it serve? Is it just a bad habit that develops with seat time?
We AE owners learn very early - DONT BLIP THE THROTTLE!
I did it once when coming to a stop at a gas station when I saw someone I knew. Nearly ran into a gas pump.
On an AE when you blip, it lurches.
Brodie
Silly question, why "blip" the throttle? What function does it serve? Is it just a bad habit that develops with seat time?
We AE owners learn very early - DONT BLIP THE THROTTLE!
I did it once when coming to a stop at a gas station when I saw someone I knew. Nearly ran into a gas pump.
On an AE when you blip, it lurches.
Brodie
Wolfman460
New member
I have an 05'. About a week ago, my bike started to die every time time I came to a stop. I would blip the throttle several times, to keep it from turning off, and once under way it would run find. If I pulled in the clutch and coasted, it would also start to die. This went on for several days, but I was hoping it was just bad fuel. I refilled the tank and ran acouple more days only to come out and it would not start. I hear an odd noise on the frist try but subseqint tries just spin over and will not start. The noise will only happen at the first try to start, and wont happen again untill I try the next day. (A couple hours of wait willl not recreate the sound. It must sit for most of the day.) I have run the self diag. on the bike, but there are no codes. I have varified the spark on all cyl. and can feel the injectors fire when turned on using the onboard diag. I do not know where to go from here. I pulled all of the plastic yesterday and checked all of the fuses. They were fine. Upon pulling the tank I did hear what sounded like a presure relief hiss. I tried to start it again to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
PA1195
Well-known member
Hello and sorry to hear about your troubles. I've not directly experienced the issues you describe, but you might check these as a start in no particular order:
1. Idle speed at 1100 rpms.
2. Battery in good condition, connections clean, and at least 12.6V after sitting overnight. Low voltage is bad. It should rise to ~14V when running - check the diagnostic for voltage.
3. Throttle position sensor on the right end of the throttle shaft internal continuity ok throughout its operating range, and properly adjusted at idle? They do go bad. There's a diagnostic on the bike to generate output resistance values from idle to WFO - they should increase and decrease smoothly with no jumps. This may be an issue and should be checked by you or a tech who knows about their function. The Service Manual describes a testing and initial setup technique that involves measuring the voltage output from the sensor in the closed idle position to the attached wiring that goes to the ECU (about 0.68 VDC). The ECU provides the 5V input power, and reads the returning voltage to determine throttle position. The throttle sensor is just a variable resistor that changes that input voltage to a lower voltage depending upon throttle setting. Measuring the steady change in output voltage as the throttle is twisted can determine if the sensor defective, similar to the diagnostic test above.
4. Run some elixir like Seafoam or Chevron Techron through the fuel system to clean. May help. Won't cure everything.
5. Make sure that there are no vacuum leaks in the throttle bodies or connections between the throttle bodies and the engine. There is a small black cap next to each that is removed to do the synch. They have to be ok. The clamps on rubber sleeves that connect the TB's to the engine need to be snug. No vacuum leaks allowed as that can cause problems at low speeds.
My best for now - others may have better suggestions. The fuel pump briefly pressurizes the system before startup. That may be the noise you hear - listen with your ear on the fuel tank when the key is first turned on.
Any weird noise or performance from the starter - like chattering and slow starting - can be caused by low system voltage due to a bad battery or poor cable connections. Correct as required.
Gary in snowy Fairbanks
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Tank venting issue???
There shouldn't be either a high pressure OR vacuum in the tank as it is a vented tank. Not to say this would cause a poor idling issue, since the fuel pump is allegedly strong enough to collapse a tank in the process of running it dry with a blocked vent.
The gurgling/burbling noise you hear when you turn the key on is the fuel pump pressuring the fuel rail. Fairly loud and obvious. Once you turn the key on and attempt subsequent starts, you probably wouldn't notice it after the first "gush". BUT, you SHOULD hear it every time you turn the key off, then back on, although a LOT quieter than that first "gush" of the day.
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Words of wisdom... From the dork with Barnacles in his tank :bleh:
:jester:
:jester:
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Easy there Jerkyboy! Somebodys gonna give ya Hell fer bein' mean and derailin' this thread :lol:
:jester:
:jester:
fjrchooser
Well-known member
Could just be another of the FJR's ways of reminding you you're not on a V-twin any more
Gary already mentioned my best guesses..
Gary already mentioned my best guesses..
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Added a PCIII, "Fixed it" many have complained of the same issue and it can be down right dangerous.
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