Engine intermittently dying while riding.

[Queensland Ken]

It's the frames neutral connection from the battery.

Easy to check by removing the front right hand side lower fairing, it's up by the headers.

I would tend to think it that connection was loose, you'd get all sorts of weird issues, esp when starting the bike ???

Worth a try.

 

[timsfjr]

Thanks will check into that lead too. No other weird issues just intermittent dying. Can't seem to replicate it yet by wiggling anything.

 

[Intech]

Sounds similar to a problem I had and it was a relay that will shut off the fuel pump, but I would see the neutral light flicker when it happened. That relay is located up above the fender just below and between the headlights. Might be worth checking the connection to it at least.

 

[FJR Bill]

Had the same symptoms on another bike...Loose battery connection. Good luck let us know what you find.

Bill

 

[timsfjr]

All the connections are tight, the ground from battery to frame is tight. The spider recall has been done. Yamaha said they couldn't help me out unless I could replicate the problem. So I guess I hope it doesn't die on my trip to Colorado in a few months. Going to add towing to my insurance just in case. Will continue to wiggle connections while riding and switches to see if I can find it.

 

[RaYzerman19]

It's time to make a list of service items before you go on that trip...... it's not fun travelling and wondering all the time if and when something's going to go wrong. Minimize your chances, eliminate the easy and obvious.

Check all of the ground spiders for cleanliness and good contact, including the recall connection.. I'd be interested to know what you found..

Replace that fuel pump relay, keep the old one as a spare.

Clean the kill switch contacts.

Check the sidestand switch for cracks or heat damage, not sure if you can squirt some contact cleaner in there on a Gen II. Put a heat shield on it if the original foil is missing.

Load test the battery to eliminate the possiblity there is an internal crack that's not yet totally failed.

Ignition switch...... haven't dived into one to know how to clean it up, probably requires removal.

 

[Brodie]

Have you verified that the recall ignition switch is indeed present on your bike? Look for the yellow band at the end of the ignition switch pigtail residing below the heat shield under the fuel tank.

You can read up on it here…

The Recall Ignition Switch - What's new about it?
Brodie

 

[dcarver]

Good to see yah posting again, Brodie!

 

[Harald]

Check the sidestand switch for cracks or heat damage, not sure if you can squirt some contact cleaner in there on a Gen II. Put a heat shield on it if the original foil is missing.

It's possible to spray contact cleaner into the sidestand switch. I recently had my bike experience the same symptoms as the OP and it was that switch gummed up causing the problem. I confirmed the failure by disconnecting the switch and hooking up an ohm meter (analog meters work best for this task so you can easily see needle fluctuation). By carefull manipulation of the stopper that goes into the switch, I was able to duplicate the fault. I completely removed the switch thinking I could disassemble and clean it like the gen I switch, but it is sealed on the Gen II. I sprayed contact cleaner into the switch and then remembered that we have a sonic cleaner at work so it spent some time in there also. Works like a champ now.

BTW, it's really easy to bypass the switch. Just follow the wire bundle from the switch to where it goes under the tank and give a little tug and you should have the connector in your hand. Just jumper the bike side of the connector. If I remember correctly, a spade style electrical terminal can be inserted as a jumper. Please be aware that with the jumper installed, it will be possible to ride off with the sidestand down and then crash when you make a left turn!