Engine oil viscosity

[Igoslo]

I have a 2010 FJR... the owner's manual says to use 20W-50 or 20W-40 depending on temperature.

The dealer says that it outdated and to use 10W-40 as it is a newer spec for our engine.

I just changed my oil, but all the local shop had was 10W-30 in stock.

Is there a danger to using this on colder days?

Thanks.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Well, now you did it. Your FJR is going to explode.

Haha...Seriously, shouldn't be a problem at all. Also the dealer was correct. Yamalube stopped carrying the 20-40/50, and changed the owners manuals of newer bikes to say 10-40. If you look around here, you'll find tons of oil threads, and twice as many opinions.

 

[Igoslo]

Thanks HotRodZilla.... I thought it might be OK, but there is always that dark corner of the brain that says "you know, if you ride it like this it seize and cost 2 trillion dollars to replace the engine".

 

[Pterodactyl]

Well, now you did it. Your FJR is going to explode.

You put the wrong oil in it AND you trusted HRZ.

 

[HotRodZilla]

The engines in 2010 FJRs are only 14.9 Billion dollars, so your fears are unfounded.

Also, regarding the search function on this Forum. You have to use words four letters or bigger. In your case, search "viscosity" and see what happens. Also, for better results, you can use Google. It would look like this:

oil; site: FJRForum

That will give you more threads than you'll have the time or desire to read. You can use it for just about anything.

 

[bgross]

Yay! A winter oil thread!

It never hurts to ask, if only for peace of mind.

 

[SLK50]

Unless of course that 10W30 oil is "Energy Conserving",

then you've got yourself a whole new set of issues,

what with a wet clutch and all. Jus sayin'.

 

[HotRodZilla]

^^^^^^^^^Uh-oh....I didn't even think of that.

 

[DennisJ]

I've been using Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic for several years once I figured out it was compatible and met Yamaha's specs for the FJR. Usually available for less than $25/gal with frequent dollars off coupons. As an added advantage the FJR seems to shift more smoothly, especially the Neutral to First shift when I squeeze the clutch lever a couple of times before trying to shift into First.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

From 1994 in my XTZ 750 Super Tenere i use 20w-50 Valvoline Durablend 4t semi synthetique all year,Summer/Winter.The engine has 260.000 km until now and it works and sounds like new!

In my fjr from 2003 when i bought her brand new i use the same oil 20w-50 again all year,Summer/Winter.The engine sounds and works like brand new without any problem...

From about 5 Celsius/40F and above the 20w-50 works fine...Below of 40F, a 15-50/10-50/10-40 will work better...The problem is at cold starts when the oil try to pass from the small oil passages.The thinner oil ''10w-40/10w50/15w-50 will pass more easy from these holes to lubricate the metals,but this happens for about one minute +/-...When the engine is warm or and hot the 20w-50 will protect it better than a 10w-40...

 

[Igoslo]

I went for a short ride yesterday and did notice the clutch slip slightly once or twice from a dead stop.

It was more of a single stutter which it never did before.

Guess its time to drain it and refill with 10w-40.

 

[FJRBluesman]

^^^ Yep, EC 5w-30 bad for motorbike, other oil good!

Dennis knows his stuff, Rotella T is good stuff I use the RT 10w-40 dino-juice, both are just grand. Dino juice cheap, synthetic pricey.

Good luck. ;-)

 

[HotRodZilla]

Did you use Energy Conserving car oil? When you said your "local shop," I was assuming you meant your local MC shop that would have motorcycle specific oils. 5-30 shouldn't make your clutch slip, unless you put EC oil into it.

 

[Igoslo]

It was Castrol my oil that I got from cycle gear. 10w-30 "4T"

It is draining out of the crankcase now, getting ready to put some Yama lube in

MC oil that is

 

[RossKean]

Your clutch "slip" had nothing to do with the oil. The Castrol 4T (10W30) doesn't have friction modifiers that would cause a clutch to slip. It is a motorcycle oil although a lower viscosity than Yamaha specifies. It may be lower viscosity at the high end when engine is hot but very unlikely to be an issue; especially at at this time of year.

FYI - When you drain the oil and replace it, remember that there will be a quart of oil left that doesn't drain and ends out mixing with the fresh stuff.

 

[Pterodactyl]

I'm pro viscosity.

 

[rbentnail]

I'm pro viscosity.

I'm anti viscosity. Gotta go with the flow, man.

 

[XWinger]

Before i knew any better i put mobil 1 10w-30 energy conserving automotive oil in my new Nighthawk S and sure enough the clutch started slippping above 8k right when the engine started really making power! Been usng Mobil1 15w-50 ever since in everything without any problems

 

[Igoslo]

New oil in and transmission is working perfectly again.

I will just consider this a "engine flush".