engine removal

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Luis

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
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Location
Cortland, NY
Hi all

I know there is a bunch of people that have removed their engines. Is there a how to anywhere (in addition to the service manual). I have done two valve clearances, removed tank, CCT swap and other jobs... I can't manage to get the gasket to seal well on that cylinder head cover. I have an oil leak that I need to trouble shoot well. I am almost ready to pull the plug on a 2015 anyway so I just though I may as well dismount the engine, clean it well, play with it, clean everything like brand new, paint a few parts without the rush of wanting to ride! I would like to know what type of logistics I am likely to need, such as engine dollies, best place to dismount the engine, tricks, recommendations, advise from all of you that have done this before...

Thanks

Luis

 
I removed my engine last summer when I had my shift drum issue by loosening and removing the mount bolts and rocking the frame back on the centerstand, raising the frame off of the engine. The forks were out, the rear wheel was off, the final drive was out (You can't pull the engine with the drive shaft in place.) Look for a thread named tranny bokerforked.

But it's WAY to much shit to go through for a leaky valve cover gasket, or some other oil leak!! I HAD to do it, as I had broken the star cam off the shift drum, and funds simply don't exist for a shop to do this! I even got free parts from forumite buddies with other terminal engine woes. The radiator is a royal pain in the ass to put back on, the brackets don't want to line up, you can't hold parts while you try to put tools on them, and you have to keep incredible track of where stuff goes as you remove it; even with pictures I had trouble with some things.

 
If it's a matter of the valve cover gasket leaking, perhaps the remedy is a new gasket. They can often be re-used, but if it has sustained any damage, it will likely leak, and require replacement.

When I put my feej's valve cover on again after the valve check, I eventually resorted to using a small amount of gasket cement to hold the thing in position. It kept partially dislodging every time I tried to install it. Fortunately I managed to avoid damage,

I used a very small amount of high-tack red sticky gasket cement after thoroughly cleaning the gasket groove on the cover.

After that, it went on perfectly first attempt.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
+1 ^^^ this!

I would NEVER consider pulling an engine for a valve cover gasket leak. That's just crazy talk.

Stick the gasket in position on the bottom of the valve cover with sealant, and wait overnight for that to set up. Be sure to get those pesky throttle cables entirely out of the way. Put a small amount of gasket sealant on just the corners of the half moons, and while installing the cover be careful to get those half moons positioned properly. Take your time. You can do it.

 
Thank you all. You guys are great. That was the reflection of my frustration! I will try and do it tomorrow. I will also repaint the cylinder head cover aluminium silver with engine enamel... I just love this bike. I cant let go and buy another one!. Not ready yet. We have many miles still together. By the way... I did install the race tech gold valves over the winter... Jeyzus! That is a change that people with at least Gen I (only thing I know) should try! And I know that I may sound a bit of a pain but the HID's with the projectors are AMAZING! You even have high and low beams! Flawless! What a difference if you ride early in the morning or late at night in deer country! If I ever buy a new model that would be my first farkle... to tell you the truth, the new Super Tenere has projectors! We should see them in the new future FJR

 
Regarding the oil leak, have you replaced the rubber washers under the valve cover bolts? They harden over time and cause less down force on the valve cover gasket. Those rubber washers are the only thing that squishes the valve cover gasket against the head. (the bolt is shouldered)

 
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