Engine temp difference

[Woodstock]

As an aside to jestals comments, Ford has a unique oil pressure gauge, and has had it for a while. Essentially, it's a oil light with a needle. It is connected to a sender that does not vary resistance-it's on or off, and on places the needle right in the comfort range, just above half gauge. Mustang GT owners have had to change the sender and do some cluster mods to have an accurate, functional oil pressure gauge that truly shows actual pressure. This holds true for any Ford with a gauge made for at least the last 10 years. Also, I recall when front drive first started to arrive in the US, we had many tow ins with customers stating that steam was pouring out of the radiator. It was rain water evaporating on the hot radiator and no engine driven fan to pull the steam through, giving the impression that the cooling system had failed. Still get them now and then.

Yea, I had an explorer with this stupid setup. If you want to give me an *****-light, give me an *****-light. I'll be a happy, content, *****

But if you put in a damn gauge, make it a real gauge.

 

[GunMD]

I looked 'round and can't seem to find it...but I know I saw a chart someplace indicating what temperature range is represented by each bar on the FJR's temp indicator. Anyone?

 

[HIGHLANDER]

Temps are in the FAQ section "bin-o-facts "

 

[GunMD]

Temps are in the FAQ section "bin-o-facts "

And so it is...thanks.

 

[FlyingLow]

OEM's should all fudge their temperature gauges so that they are completely "dead" in the normal operating range and don't move. That would prevent all the paranoia and angst owners go thru when the temperature gauge moves NORMALLY.
Coolant doesn't wear out in the "cooling" sense. It does need replacing periodically to refresh the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant, however. The coolant is ethylene glycol. EG will last forever. It doesn't break down with temperature cycles or anything. The corrosion inhibitors in the coolant do get depleted with time/miles so the "coolant" needs to be replaced. Not to keep the cooling capacity but to keep the aluminum engine from corroding from the inside out. You will know it is corroding when the head cracks due to the depleted corrosion inhibitors. The corrosion inhibitors in coolant will be depleted very rapidly in aluminum engines so the coolant needs to be replaced rather frequently to protect the engine.....not to make it cool better.

Best argument I've heard yet for change it early and often.

The book says every 2 years or 16,000 miles. That's good enough for me. I'm approaching both and will change it before WFO.

 

[jestal]

As an aside to jestals comments, Ford has a unique oil pressure gauge, and has had it for a while. Essentially, it's a oil light with a needle. It is connected to a sender that does not vary resistance-it's on or off, and on places the needle right in the comfort range, just above half gauge. Mustang GT owners have had to change the sender and do some cluster mods to have an accurate, functional oil pressure gauge that truly shows actual pressure. This holds true for any Ford with a gauge made for at least the last 10 years. Also, I recall when front drive first started to arrive in the US, we had many tow ins with customers stating that steam was pouring out of the radiator. It was rain water evaporating on the hot radiator and no engine driven fan to pull the steam through, giving the impression that the cooling system had failed. Still get them now and then.

Ford isn't the only one with an oil pressure "gauge" like that....LOL. There are several oil pressure "indicators" on the OEM market that are just programmed "displays" based on engine RPM and coolant temperature...dumbed down so that they do not show (near) zero at idle, either...LOL. They are for people that just HAVE to have a gauge (they read Road and Track too much) and yet have no idea what the oil pressure gauge means. Put an oil pressure gauge into production that is REALLY an oil pressure gauge and that is REALLY accurate and you will have more customer complaints than you can imagine. Trust me. I have data. Seriously. Dumb it down so all the "experts" see what they want and what they see fits their preconceived notions and the complaints disappear. The likely hood of an oil pressure gauge on a production car showing the owner a real problem is between slim and none and slim left town. An ***** light is the only thing needed and even then it is an "after the fact" item.

On the same topic are fuel level gauges.... Put one into production that reads FULL when the tank is full, 1/2 at 1/2 and empty at empty and you will be deluged with complaints....of POOR FUEL ECONOMY. The motoring public mistakes the gauge moving off full immediately for poor fuel economy. And if they have to fill it up at 1/2 (scared of running out of gas) they think the car is getting poor fuel economy. Seriously. So....gas gauges read FULL for the first 3 gallons used. When the gauge reads 1/2 you have likely used 2/3 of the tank. This tricks the public into using more of the tank capacity and improves the "fuel economy complaints which is really "range". When it reads empty it still has 2 or 3 gallons and the car can go 40 miles or more....LOL. If ANYONE runs out of gas just because the gauge reads "empty" they feel that the CAR is at fault, not them. Presto: NO COMPLAINTS. This is why your gas gauge "lies" terribly along with your oil pressure gauge and coolant temp gauge.

Rad, you would not believe the compliants about "steam" seen from radiators in cool weather with electric fans. No fan needed and no fan running to pull the "steam" under the hood. Epidemic of complaints over that normal phenomenon.

The book says every 2 years or 16,000 miles. That's good enough for me. I'm approaching both and will change it before WFO.

Yea, that is plenty often I would say. Forget flushing and such. The "********" idea has merit to getting most of the old coolant out but just draining and refilling frequently is perfectly adequate unless the coolant has been in the system WAY too long. Then just drain and refill several times in close sequence to effect a flush.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Is there any reason for not having an accurate tachometer?

I guess Yamaha thinks a very high RPM redline makes the bike more desirable.

 

[jestal]

Is there any reason for not having an accurate tachometer?
I guess Yamaha thinks a very high RPM redline makes the bike more desirable.

No, but speedometers also lie. European regulations require speedometers to read on the fast side for vehicles on that side of the pond. Since no one wants to err on the low side most of them are a trifle high over here, also.

 

[Scab]

No, but speedometers also lie. European regulations require speedometers to read on the fast side for vehicles on that side of the pond. Since no one wants to err on the low side most of them are a trifle high over here, also.

And the feej, too.