ES electrical issue

[Allen_C]

Yes, my '14ES seems to have a problem. At the end of my ride today a cager decided she wanted my lane after she passed me on the right. I blasted my aftermarket dual air horn and hit my brakes so the ***** would not take out my front wheel. My horn stopped after just 2 seconds of sounding and my ABS indicator started flashing. While riding the last mile home, I noticed my horn was out, my windscreen would not move and the ABS light kept flashing. After arriving home, I also noticed my brake light wouldn't work. When I turn the bike off, "090" was displayed on the right side dash lcd.

I thought that maybe it was a fuse blown...so I checked all the fuses in the two black boxes and all were good. I did not check the main fuses since I did not think everything else would work (including my aftermarket LED driving lights) and the bike would start up fine if one of them were blown.

Short of riding to the dealership tomorrow, anyone have a clue? Oh, I started and turned it off a couple times at home and each time the same 090 appeared on the display right before the "See you next time (or what ever it says)" displays then shuts off.

 

[steve_g]

Not sure if the ES is the same. This is from my 2013 Service Manual, not sure if I`m in the right spot because it is the Cruise Control System section.

Fault Code 90

A: Front brake light switch: open or short circuit detected

B: Rear brake light switch: open or short circuit detected

 

[TomInPA]

I assume you have the horns on a relay with it's own connection to power. If so, I think the post above is more likely.

 

[steve_g]

It looks like the brake lights, horn, glove box solenoid and windshield switches all get power from the "Signaling System Fuse".

This is listed as a 10 Amp fuse.

Again, 2013 service manual. Assuming ES is similar.

 

[Allen_C]

It looks like the brake lights, horn, glove box solenoid and windshield switches all get power from the "Signaling System Fuse".
This is listed as a 10 Amp fuse.

Again, 2013 service manual. Assuming ES is similar.

Great info, I will check that fuse again tonight. The horn is connected to the original wires with its own relay.

 

[TomInPA]

It looks like the brake lights, horn, glove box solenoid and windshield switches all get power from the "Signaling System Fuse".

This is listed as a 10 Amp fuse.

Again, 2013 service manual. Assuming ES is similar.

Great info, I will check that fuse again tonight. The horn is connected to the original wires with its own relay.

So the horn wires act as the switch, and the power comes from a fused connection to the battery?

 

[Allen_C]

A relay is installed on the original wires, the horn is then connected to the relay.

 

[steve_g]

Allen,

Keep us posted, if needed I can look into the wiring closer. I will be around the house tonight, so post here or PM me.

As Tom mentioned above, it would be helpful if you explained the horn wiringa little better. The OEM horn wiring has a constant +12V on the horn (from Signaling System fuse) and the switch is on the ground side.

I assume you have tested the horn after install (how long was the button depressed). Depending on how the horn was wired could explain why the fuse blew when actuating the horn and brakes simultaneously.

 

[Chuck35]

Be sure to check fuses with a test light or volt meter. A visual check will often lead you astray.

 

[Allen_C]

Horn was tested for only a second or two at a time previously. If I remember correctly, the original horn + and - are going into the relay then the horn is wired into the other relay terminals. I do not remember which wire is inserted into which terminal.

Thanks for all the help. I wonder if the horn is drawing a little too much so hitting the brakes at the same time caused an overload. If it is the Signal fuse, what are my options - wire the horn on its own circuit to my fuzeblock through the horn button?

 

[steve_g]

You can use the original horn wires to drive the coil of a relay.

Then from your fuse block, wire to the contact side of the relay then the other side of the contact to the horn positive.

Run the negative side of the horn back to the fuse block ground or to another reliable ground connection.

Based on your last post, I really hope its as simple fix as the signal fuse.

 

[steve_g]

PS Can you send me some details on your FZ6? My buddy is in the market.

 

[HYCLE]

if you are using a bosch style relay. 30 is battery, 87 the load, 85 and 86 are the coil of the electromagnet that closes the contacts between 30 and 87. Hope that helps.

 

[Allen_C]

It was a blown fuse. Now I'll need to figure out if it was a fluke thing or if I need to power the horns through my fuzeblock I installed under my seat.

Thanks to everyone who posted. I thought I checked all those fuses but apparently I did not.

 

[NormKern]

Power to the horn relay contacts should come from an independent fused line from the battery. The original horn wires should only be used for powering the relay coil.

If the fuse identified by other posters does not appear to be blown, check it with an ohmmeter- it may be a defective fuse.

 

[PhilJet09]

Like others are saying, it isn't a fluke. You aren't using the relay correctly. The premise is to use the factory, low amp wiring to run the relay coil, which is basically a low load electrical switch. You then want to use correctly sized (heavier guage) wire from a fuse block, or at least a fused source, to handle the actual load of the horn.

 

[Allen_C]

Like others are saying, it isn't a fluke. You aren't using the relay correctly. The premise is to use the factory, low amp wiring to run the relay coil, which is basically a low load electrical switch. You then want to use correctly sized (heavier guage) wire from a fuse block, or at least a fused source, to handle the actual load of the horn.

I understand the idea now. I will rectify this...maybe this is a good project for the tech weekend coming up!

 

[Bounce]

+1 on the relay advise.

NEVER (ever ever ever) cut into your OEM harness or add more load to it. Spawn off your own customer circuit for each additional load. It will avoid every dealer under the sun disavowing you the moment you try to talk to them about any issue on the bike. On top of that, if you're a DIYer, then there's a much reduced risk of longer-term electrical problems that could leave you stranded or scratching your head while trying to track down self-inflicted problems in your garage right before a bike weekend.

 

[Allen_C]

Thanks, bounce. I agree about never cutting into the factory harness! I actually used the same spade terminal ends from the horn writes so no cutting!