Expensive service trip

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stose85

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So I've had my 2006 at the shop for almost 2 weeks now and finally got word that she's ready to go. I had the front fork seals replaced, valve check (30,000 miles and no records from the previous owner), and CCT changed to a manual adjuster (original was still on the bike). The mechanic told me they contemplated removing the entire engine to access the CCT as it was a pain to get to. I advised him that I could have given him technical information on its removal if needed, but in the end I'm glad they didn't add another several hundred dollars worth of labor to my bill. Final cost $920. Seems a bit rich for my blood, but I'd rather spend the money now, and not have to worry about it later. What do you guys think? I wasn't going to have the time to complete all these tasks, and didn't have the expertise to do so on my own. No adjustments were needed and the valves were all within spec.

 
For that amount, I hope they sent flowers the next day!

In all seriousness, it is a lot of money but while the service they did is not particularly difficult, it can be time consuming. I would be a bit worried that a shop didn't know enough about the bike to be sure that the CCT can be changed without removing the engine! Awkward but definitely do-able. (I opted for the updated Yamaha CCT. I have never heard of one of these failing and there is no need for regular adjustment or checking)

For future reference, it is very likely that the fork seals didn't really need changing at 30,000 miles - usually good for 2 to 3 times that long. Most of the time, the leak can be fixed using a "SealMate" or reasonable facsimile to clean some offending piece of dirt out of the fork seal. That fork service would have been a significant part of the cost. I hope they replaced the three Teflon-coated copper bushings in each fork leg while they were at it.

I have done all of these service tasks before and spent a fair amount of time at it. Very satisfying and saved a bunch of money.

 
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Ross, the fork seals were my fault because I towed the bike improperly. They were completely drained when I took the bike to the shop. I trust this shop, unlike all the others and they've done good work, even if it took time. I was thinking this was a lot of time, but its good to hear that the time was probably justified for the amount of work done. Thanks!

 
Valve check alone are about $500-$600, more an adjustment is required. While there were in there spark plugs should have been replaced and a throttle body check complete.

I replaced the CCT on my 09 and the part alone was $149. That they wanted to pull the engine is nuts. A buddy had a modified wrench to gain access to the CCT bolts - the shop should know this.

Replace the fork oil annually to extend the time between for seal changes.

With the help of friends on the forum I have learned how to do all the maintenance noted, less the fork seal change. I am going to extend my fork seal changes to 40k or more. At 20k the seals are in good shape. Find some FJR buds on the forum and have a tech day.

 
Taking into account what modern shops charge for labor that's about right. I get about half of that cause I have no overhead to speak of. If you are comfortable with the job then it's all good. I recently dealt with a guy who charged 180.00 per hour and he has lots of work.

 
My '05 is in Zac's hands at Roseville Yamaha since this morning. Valve check, rear caliper replacement (w/Iggy's experienced caliper - due to spalled threads on bolt from lack of anti-seize when new), full brake fluid replacement including ABS block, coolant flush, and some other checks. Without valve adjust, I'm light of what you're at, but it makes yours seem ballpark right.

Opted not to have them address a minor fork weep; I need to drain & replace fluid myself and am gonna give the seals the Seal Mate and/or seal doctor treatment. Too dang expensive to have them replace seals, fluid and such with only 17,000 miles on the forks since the GP Suspension rebuild almost 8 years. (Agreed: I've ridden far too little since 2010.)

 
So I've had my 2006 at the shop for almost 2 weeks now and finally got word that she's ready to go. I had the front fork seals replaced, valve check (30,000 miles and no records from the previous owner), and CCT changed to a manual adjuster (original was still on the bike). The mechanic told me they contemplated removing the entire engine to access the CCT as it was a pain to get to. I advised him that I could have given him technical information on its removal if needed, but in the end I'm glad they didn't add another several hundred dollars worth of labor to my bill. Final cost $920. Seems a bit rich for my blood, but I'd rather spend the money now, and not have to worry about it later. What do you guys think? I wasn't going to have the time to complete all these tasks, and didn't have the expertise to do so on my own. No adjustments were needed and the valves were all within spec.
Human arrogance, and mechanics seem to have their share of this, or more than their share, keeps these guys from accepting anything that comes from the internet, youtube, or forum advice, so you can't just tell them "check here, and there is good advice from people who have done this CCT change a hundred times and will save YOU time and money and keep you from saying stupid things like "I might have to pull the engine to change the CCT".

Oh well, my wife tells me I am the same way so what the heck.

 
Taking into account what modern shops charge for labor that's about right. I get about half of that cause I have no overhead to speak of. If you are comfortable with the job then it's all good. I recently dealt with a guy who charged 180.00 per hour and he has lots of work.
Did he psychoanalyze you while he worked? And did it help?

 
So I've had my 2006 at the shop for almost 2 weeks now and finally got word that she's ready to go. I had the front fork seals replaced, valve check (30,000 miles and no records from the previous owner), and CCT changed to a manual adjuster (original was still on the bike). The mechanic told me they contemplated removing the entire engine to access the CCT as it was a pain to get to. I advised him that I could have given him technical information on its removal if needed, but in the end I'm glad they didn't add another several hundred dollars worth of labor to my bill. Final cost $920. Seems a bit rich for my blood, but I'd rather spend the money now, and not have to worry about it later. What do you guys think? I wasn't going to have the time to complete all these tasks, and didn't have the expertise to do so on my own. No adjustments were needed and the valves were all within spec.
Human arrogance, and mechanics seem to have their share of this, or more than their share, keeps these guys from accepting anything that comes from the internet, youtube, or forum advice, so you can't just tell them "check here, and there is good advice from people who have done this CCT change a hundred times and will save YOU time and money and keep you from saying stupid things like "I might have to pull the engine to change the CCT".

Oh well, my wife tells me I am the same way so what the heck.
A good wrench is hard to find. A good dealer is harder. Most bike dealers don't pay mechanics that well and they move on. Sure they have some training but time on job is what counts.

Mechanics have to buy their own tools. Big money for good stuff. Its great when you can repair your own bike or car. Its not easy if you don't know JACK or have the proper tools. Internet will only help. Won't hold your hand .Looks easy untill something goes wrong. I'd pay somebody $180 if they had the tools and did a quality job.

 
After riding for a day, I only had one minor complaint about the service. The mechanic filled the reservoir and didn't re-fill it when the bike had warmed up. I got it at the low mark on the tank, but at least something was still there. A simple top off at the house, and she's good to go. Bike runs like a top and it was worth it not having to deal with those two big maintenance issues. Thanks guys for the input!
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Here is an easier way to replace chain tensioner when doing a valve check. No need to remove fairing or side cover.. Wedge something behind rear chain guide to hold tension on chain and replace tensioner. Just need something to keep it snug. No excessive pressure on guide its plastic with a metal backing. Make sure its in time before replacement.

 
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