Factory oil looks like sh** after first change

[Auron]

330 miles on an 09' AE. It had ZERO miles when I bought it last month. Almost looks the same color as the the bike siting in the pan, kind of cloudy too. I put a drop on my finger and it looks somewhat new and smells fine, but jeez. Normal? I'll check for sediment after it cools down.

And btw, who's the dumbs*** that torques or approved the torque value for the drain plug :angry2:

 

[wnyfjr]

I have no personal experience here, but while searching other threads a while back for something else, I recall seeing several instances of what you are reporting on new bikes. I believe this is 'normal', although I can't explain why. Someone much smarter than me will be along in a bit to chime in I'm sure. It does apparently go away after the first few oil changes.

As for the torque on the drain bolt, yeah, that's just goofy. I have never torqued an oil pan drain bolt on anything, ever. Tight is tight, check for leaks and ride the thing.

 

[AlleyCat]

Yup, normal. I believe that Yamaha uses break-in oil (at least they did in my quad - 660 Grizzly). If not, seeing that you are breaking in a new engine, you can expect to see some metallic debris. The first oil change is really important in my book. I would change the filter too seeing that it will contain break-in debris. I cleaned the magnet on the shaft drain plug - amazing how much metallic filings get there.

 

[SacramentoMike]

Did you double check to make sure you opened the right drain plug?

(Just trying to help.)

 

[bluesdog]

I think the rings are not quite seated in a new engine, so the oil tends to collect a lot more soot/carbon. Once the rings are seated, the oil won't look so black. Dark oil means the oil is doing its job

BTW, although the owner's manual says to change the filter every second change, I change it at each oil change, @ 5000 km intervals, more frequently than recommended 6000 km intervals.

I also did the first change @ 500 km, about half the suggested mileage.

 

[mcatrophy]

330 miles on an 09' AE. It had ZERO miles when I bought it last month. Almost looks the same color as the the bike siting in the pan, kind of cloudy too. I put a drop on my finger and it looks somewhat new and smells fine, but jeez. Normal? I'll check for sediment after it cools down.

And btw, who's the dumbs*** that torques or approved the torque value for the drain plug :angry2:

Erm ... why do you think they specify an oil change at 500 miles?

The over-tightened oil pan plug is well documented on this forum, the specified torque in the workshop manual is ridiculously high. Presumably that's the torque setting used during manufacture. Many have taken their bike to their dealer for the first service so that if it strips they have no question of warranty repair. In the UK the cost of the labour for the 500 mile service is included within the purchase price, so it's a no-brainer. Suits us, we have very few brains over here.

 

[rbentnail]

Do yourself a favor- https://www.blackstone-labs.com/. It'll really help you home in on the type, weight, interval your bike and wallet like.

 

[Afast03nNJ]

You can't judge the condition of your oil by its color.

There should never be metallic particles in your oil, new engine or old.

The only thing that "breaks in" inside a new engine is the camshaft, and that happens in the first 20 minutes of initial run time.

 

[Top_Speed1]

I did my 1st change at 600 miles, I thought the breakin oil that came out still looked almost golden new. hmmm? And yes, the torque from factory on the oil plug has been bitched about a lot here.... let's just call it normal.

 

[LAF]

You can't judge the condition of your oil by its color.

There should never be metallic particles in your oil, new engine or old.

The only thing that "breaks in" inside a new engine is the camshaft, and that happens in the first 20 minutes of initial run time.

Totally disagree with you!

All gears in the transmission, any worn particles from cross hatch in the cylinders, and any thing else that meshes, or rubs will cause metal particulates in your first or second oil change. Wear from clutch plates breaking in, even any brass bushings,just can not name them all. As to the camshaft it is the hardest most finished part in the motor!

I did a oil changer at 50 miles on mine including final drive. Then the 600 mile at dealer. And change the filter every time!

Sorry built too many motors to agree with your statement, early oil changes on new or built motors is a must!

 

[someguy]

You can't judge the condition of your oil by its color.

There should never be metallic particles in your oil, new engine or old.

The only thing that "breaks in" inside a new engine is the camshaft, and that happens in the first 20 minutes of initial run time.

Totally disagree with you!

All gears in the transmission, any worn particles from cross hatch in the cylinders, and any thing else that meshes, or rubs will cause metal particulates in your first or second oil change. Wear from clutch plates breaking in, even any brass bushings,just can not name them all. As to the camshaft it is the hardest most finished part in the motor!

I did a oil changer at 50 miles on mine including final drive. Then the 600 mile at dealer. And change the filter every time!

Sorry built too many motors to agree with your statement, early oil changes on new or built motors is a must!

this.

i too have similar experience.

my bike came home from the dealership and i dumped the synth oil in it and replaced it with high quality dyno, then changed it and the filter at 50 and 150 miles... along w/ the rear diff. then again at 500 and then 2500, and 5000

at 8K miles i moved to Amsoil...

the oil that came out in the first change did have visible metalic (magnetic) "dust" in the filter...

im sure there was a small amount of aluminum in there as well

overkill? perhaps... but i feel good about it. and i intend to get the +300K out of this machine that i think it's capable of

 

[TomInPA]

I was wondering if the AE clutch plates might contribute some to the color. Either way, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Change the oil and ride.

 

[phroenips]

I was wondering if the AE clutch plates might contribute some to the color. Either way, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Change the oil and ride.

Don't the A and AE have the exact same clutch plates? It's simply the electronic gizmo (YCCS) that actuates the clutch that's different.

 

[Top_Speed1]

I was wondering if the AE clutch plates might contribute some to the color. Either way, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Change the oil and ride.

I know electronically the (AE) clutch is engaged but I thought the plates were the same?

Edit: oops, too late!

 

[Auron]

So, the oil itself looks quite metallic, but I found zero shavings or sediment at the bottom. It was super hot and I feel like I got most of it out too.

To me, it seems like a mistake to drain the factory oil too soon. Yamaha knows what they are doing, they designed it from the ground up to be a 200,000 mile+ motor, unlike other bikes that share and engine with multiply bikes (but that's a different discussion) If that's the way the oil is supposed to look, then great. It did it's job.

350 miles seemed just right, so I threw in XXXXXXX XX oil and I'm good to go. Can I stop varying the RPM now?

 

[MajBach]

330 miles on an 09' AE. It had ZERO miles when I bought it last month. Almost looks the same color as the the bike siting in the pan, kind of cloudy too. I put a drop on my finger and it looks somewhat new and smells fine, but jeez. Normal? I'll check for sediment after it cools down.

And btw, who's the dumbs*** that torques or approved the torque value for the drain plug :angry2:

I'd gladly accept a bit of dirty oil in exchange for a brand new FeeJ'eR

 

[bluesdog]

... Can I stop varying the RPM now?

I suggest you keep right on varying for at least another few hundred miles. Maybe until your next oil change.

Also, take 'er to redline from time to time... :yahoo: