Fairing removal

[gypsy]

Has anyone ever run across instructions for fairing removal? I found the dash panel removal but I am wondering about the whole fairing.

Oh and at this point I would like to curse the engineer who came up the many different fasteners for the fairing....bastard!!

gypsy

 

[galxy5]

after removing and replacing the lowers as many times as I have this summer for several farcles, I can give you a step by step if you do not find one

 

[madmike2]

Yeah, most of us have had the lowers off a number of times. We now "plan" our farkling so that we remove them as few times as possible. The first time is the most difficult, the twist fasteners under the nose piece being the most, uhm, er, *#%@*! difficult. If you run into problems, someone here can talk you through it.

 

[shuswaper]

hey Gypsy...the designers forgot to relay to the technical writer(s) of the factory service manual (in my 03 book,at least) that, after you have removed the LEFT side cowling, the RIGHT side cowling and FRONT BOTTOM cowling (the triangular piece below the rad.) should come off as one piece.In fact, the manual states to remove the left side first; right side next; front bottom cowling next. WRONG. Because....those two pieces are connected together from behind by 2 Philips screws and they are a bastard to get at, you risk busting some plastic if you attempt to unscrew from behind. It is far more simple to keep RIGHT side and FRONT BOTTOM connected together and remove as ONE PIECE!!!!!!!!!!! Hope this helps Gypsy. :assasin:

 

[gypsy]

I was thinking the whole fairing but you guys are right in that I only really need the lowers off. I went at it this morning and got the right side off with the cowling piece still attached so I left it that way. The left side went well right up until one of those g**damn fasteners on the inside of the fairing just below the glove box refused to pop. If can't get it I may just cut it off and take my chances trying to replace it.

galxy5 since I plan to leave the lowers off until Spring I will probably get back to you for help when I can get the damn things back on!!!

Thanks

gypsy

 

[Sherpagirl]

Am I the only one still in shock as to the number of panels you have to remove just to get to the battery? Finally got a battery charger with permanent quick connect wires.

Another romantic Christmas present!!!

 

[madmike2]

Am I the only one still in shock as to the number of panels you have to remove just to get to the battery? Finally got a battery charger with permanent quick connect....

Aha, Grasshopper sherpagirl, BTDT!

Gypsy, the fasteners by the glovebox are the most difficult. I usually jockey the forks around so I can get a stubby phillips on them, the get my oversized fingers in there and "hold the outer ring" while I turn the screw head with my other hand. Be careful to not push "in" on the screw, or it won't back out. Just twist it and it will back out 1/4 turn. Its a matter of technique, not strength.

 

[galxy5]

I bought a stubby rachet driver (Sears) with multipul allen and screw heads for removing the lowers ,, those of us that have sliders we must remove them first and then re torque them at the end ,, so the process is a bit longer

now that I have removed the scared up lowers and front fender off Galxy5 and replaced them with the new pieces that the insurance $$ provided ,, I have them set in a jig to mod this winter ,, I am using aircraft aluminum to skin the bottom of lowers and extend back under the exhaust to create a belly pan and a new chin piece that will create an air flow tunnel under the bike to pull the heat down and under the bike ,, like a race faring ,,

 

[madmike2]

Clever idea! Let us know how it works. When the original heat mods were tried there was one that included running a piece of plastic tubing from the injector area to the back tire area (Bernoulli effect?) that was supposed to draw the hot air out.

Be careful with what you do to the chin piece. Others have tried cutting (round) holes or cutting triangular pieces out. The problem is that the increase in air flow comes through the headers and has no where to exhaust. If you can engineer something that would draw the air down and awaty from the rider that could be a good thing, but I fear the lump of an engine is in the way.

Maybe something with a little larger side opening and wings to deflect the hot air away from the rider's legs. Good luck.

 

[NightShine]

...I have them set in a jig to mod this winter ,, I am using aircraft aluminum to skin the bottom of lowers and extend back under the exhaust to create a belly pan...

galxy5,

California Scientific makes a belly pan for the FJR. I haven't heard anything of anyone using it though...

 

[galxy5]

NightShine,

I have seen the belly pan before, but what I am doing is not so much for bottoming out protection, it's to increase airflow by creating a tunel draw, using reverse cut loovers,

just an idea I have been knocking around, we use the same effect in Hot Rods

 

[shuswaper]

Am I the only one still in shock as to the number of panels you have to remove just to get to the battery?  Finally got a battery charger with permanent quick connect wires.
Another romantic Christmas present!!!

Hey there Sherpa., I'm not sure what most others would say, but all I can say is: it only requires me to remove dash panels "C" and "D" to get at the battery. The trick I think, is to simply loosen or remove the upper fasteners on the right side fairing that allows more give. Give it a try...let me know what you think! :assasin:

 

[Geezer]

Am I the only one still in shock as to the number of panels you have to remove just to get to the battery?  Finally got a battery charger with permanent quick connect wires.
Another romantic Christmas present!!!

Hey there Sherpa., I'm not sure what most others would say, but all I can say is: it only requires me to remove dash panels "C" and "D" to get at the battery. The trick I think, is to simply loosen or remove the upper fasteners on the right side fairing that allows more give. Give it a try...let me know what you think! :assasin:

Yeah, but first you need to raise the front of the tank and before you do that you need to remove the black plastic side panels under the tank. and before that ......

I know it gets easier after you do it a few times but it sure is a lot tougher to get to things than on a naked bike. As madmike2 said, I plan my farkles and maintenance to do as many things in a single session as possible to save me from having to remove panels any more often than necessary.

 

[shuswaper]

@Geezer: I have had my FJR since July 03...remove the battery every fall and goes back in around mid March and....never have had to lift the tank and...never have removed more than dash lids C and D and....never had a problem in the process. Albeit, must be carefull with the extractment and fitment of those dash parts but, not really difficult nor time consuming. Tell me, what am I doing wrong? :assasin:

 

[madmike2]

Am I the only one still in shock as to the number of panels you have to remove just to get to the battery?  Finally got a battery charger with permanent quick connect wires.
Another romantic Christmas present!!!

Hey there Sherpa., I'm not sure what most others would say, but all I can say is: it only requires me to remove dash panels "C" and "D" to get at the battery. The trick I think, is to simply loosen or remove the upper fasteners on the right side fairing that allows more give. Give it a try...let me know what you think! :assasin:

Yeah, but first you need to raise the front of the tank and before you do that you need to remove the black plastic side panels under the tank. and before that ......

I know it gets easier after you do it a few times but it sure is a lot tougher to get to things than on a naked bike. As madmike2 said, I plan my farkles and maintenance to do as many things in a single session as possible to save me from having to remove panels any more often than necessary.

Uhm...raise the tank? I don't. The first couple of times I slipped a piece of cardboard (think ceral box) between the tank and the dashpieces so as not to scratch the blue paint (the Cerulean didn't show scratches like the blue does). As shuswaper says, remove the C & D panels and, voila' , battery access. Its still more difficult than other bikes who have room under the seat, but that discussion will be moved to the "Pointless Neverending Thread" page.