Fault Code 12

[Constant Mesh]

When you press the start pushbutton the ECU is alerted assuming that the starting requirements are satisfied -- transmission in neutral, clutch disengaged, side stand raised.

The ECU expects feedback from the crankshaft position sensor, the cylinder identification sensor, and the intake air pressure sensor when the engine is cranking and running. The ECU gets no direct feedback from the starter relay or starter motor.

So if you press the start pushbutton and no crankshaft position sensor input, etc. is received what might be the problem? The ECU assumes that the starter relay energized the starter motor and the crankshaft should have rotated. So investigate the crankshaft position sensor.

The starter relay contacts are eroded every time you release the start pushbutton and the relay contacts are opened. Closing the contacts doesn't damage them much, only when they are opening.

The contacts suffer the most damage when the engine doesn't start. The starter motor is delivering full output and the relay contacts must interrupt that full load current. If the engine starts, the starter motor load drops off with a corresponding reduction in current. It's easier and less damaging to interrupt a smaller current.

 

[MotoMike]

So.......my new relay arrived today. I had a devil of a time removing the electrical wire connector from the old relay as the connector was totally corroded where the female side of the spade connectors on the cable side slide over the male pins on the relay. I cleaned off the female connectors by scraping them and flushing with electrical contact cleaner. I blew the connector out with compressed air from a can, then reconnected and re-installed everything.

When I tried to start the bike I saw no code 12 and no check engine light. The starter turned vigorously, but the engine did not fire up. I tried the Wide Open Throttle manouver three times, letting the starter turn for a count of 15 Mississippis each time. Still no joy.

I called up diagnostic code 62 which showed 3 fault codes in the memory. I called up diagnostic code 61 which showed those codes to be 12, 14 and 30.

I have 2 questions:
1) How do I erase the fault codes contained in the memory? I figure if I erase the codes and one or more recurs, that might narrow things down.
2) Where do I go from here?

 

[MotoMike]

Update: I managed to erase the fault codes. No fault codes recurred.

I had the battery load-tested: Good
I checked the coils with a tester: Good
I pulled the spark plugs. Plug from #3 cyclinder looked carbon fouled, so I changed all the plugs. Bike started right up on first try!!!!!!

I checked my maintenance log: The last time they were changed was June, 2020 (28,963 kms ago). OOPS!

Moral of the story: Keep up with the maintenance schedule! Plugs are to be inspected every 6 months/4000 miles/6500 kms. Plugs to be replaced every 12 months/8,000 miles/13,000 kms.

New problem: It looks like the engine coolant temperature sensor has failed. Yamaha Canada has one, but it's quite pricey. Same for Partzilla.

Does anyone have a bike that they are selling off for parts? I could use:
8CC-85790-01-00
THERMOSENSOR ASSY. That would be part #17 in the "Electrical" microfiche.

 

[RossKean]

New problem: It looks like the engine coolant temperature sensor has failed.

Never encountered that one. What are the symptoms? Wondering if is anything more than a loose connector. Also, make sure coolant is topped off - actually measuring coolant temperature, not engine or oil.

 

[Rocnsanman]

Send me a picture of the part needed. I'll check it against my box of parts.
Dan

 

[MotoMike]

Never encountered that one. What are the symptoms? Wondering if is anything more than a loose connector. Also, make sure coolant is topped off - actually measuring coolant temperature, not engine or oil.

Symptoms are as follows: When the engine is started and run from a cold start, there is already one bar showing on the temperature guage with ignition in the "on" position before startup. The guage then rapidly runs up to 9 bars within 2 minutes of startup. After the 2 minutes of running, I turned off the engine and and carefully put my hand on the radiator and on the coolant pipes on top of the engine. They felt lukewarm at most. I then carefully removed the radiator cap. There was no pressure release and no steam. The radiator was full. I carefully plunged my finger into the coolant. It was lukewarm at most. Also, before I did any of that, I did pull off, inspect and re-connect the connector.

 

[MotoMike]

Send me a picture of the part needed. I'll check it against my box of parts.
Dan

Thanks, Dan. Photo to follow.

 

[MotoMike]

Dan, the top is photo of the sensor in-situ, with the connector attached. The bottom photo shows the sensor without the connector.

 

[RossKean]

Symptoms are as follows: When the engine is started and run from a cold start, there is already one bar showing on the temperature guage with ignition in the "on" position before startup. The guage then rapidly runs up to 9 bars within 2 minutes of startup. After the 2 minutes of running, I turned off the engine and and carefully put my hand on the radiator and on the coolant pipes on top of the engine. They felt lukewarm at most. I then carefully removed the radiator cap. There was no pressure release and no steam. The radiator was full. I carefully plunged my finger into the coolant. It was lukewarm at most. Also, before I did any of that, I did pull off, inspect and re-connect the connector.

Before you buy one, there is a test procedure in the FSM. Just need an ohmmeter and thermometer...

 

[Rocnsanman]

Mike, Just in case you need that part.... I have it. Just pay shipping and it's yours.

 

[MotoMike]

Thanks, Rocnsanman. I will pull the part off the bike today and test it as per RossKean's instructions. Then I will get back to you.

 

[MotoMike]

I just tested the ECT sensor as per RossKean's direction in post #29, above. The resistance shows as 340 ohms at 80 degree C. So, within spec.

Rocnsanman, thanks for the kind offer of a replacement part, but it looks like I do not need it.

Now: to find out why the bike is overhaeating.

 

[RossKean]

Sounds like coolant isn't full but you said you checked that. Sometimes you can get an air lock. Usual fix is to fill completely through the radiator cap and run it up to the point where the thermostat opens. (Make sure the reservoir tank is full to start and that the hose isn't kinked or cracked.) As the coolant gets hot, air (and coolant) may "burp" out through the reservoir causing a bit of overflow. As the engine cools, it should draw fluid back into the radiator. Assumes lines are OK and the radiator cap is good. Refill the reservoir and top off the radiator again and repeat. Might help to rock the bike side-to-side while running and up to temperature.

I assume the fans are coming on as the temperature gage approaches the high point?
Check your overflow reservoir for cracks (I had to replace the one in my '07) and check the condition of the hose that runs down from the radiator cap to the bottom of the reservoir for breaks, blocks or kinks.

Don't have any idea what else might be happening if the sensor is good. Note: I found it a bit odd that there was that a wide an acceptance interval for resistance at 80 °C...

Other thing you might try to absolutely verify the sensor and associated wiring is to leave it connected to the bike (but not screwed into the engine) and immerse the sensor end in water/coolant at various temperatures from room temperature to near boiling and see what the gauge response is (ignition switched on but engine not running). If it responds as expected, then the issue is with your radiator - blockage or air lock. If it doesn't, the issue is with the sensor or circuitry.

 

[rbentnail]

Check your overflow reservoir for cracks (I had to replace the one in my '07) and check the condition of the hose that runs down from the radiator cap to the bottom of the reservoir for breaks, blocks or kinks.

This reminds me of 2 things:

one time the big hose from the radiator cap curled when I put it in the overflow reservoir instead of poking down to the bottom. This caused it to suck air as the system cooled;

one time I kinked the overflow reservoir hose down at the bottom, where it runs past the oil filter under the little piece of plastic fairing. If the overflow vent isn't right, it creates a small vacuum in the reservoir and won't draw coolant in correctly.

 

[MotoMike]

Well, I pulled the connector off the sensor and took a real close look inside of the connector. There was a microscopic piece of green plastic in there that I was able to remove using a dental pick. I then tested the sensor in a bath of boiling water. It worked as it should.

I removed all the fairing from the left side of the bike and looked again. The radiator appeared to be full to the top. The reservoir was at the low level. The rubber cap on the coolant reservoir was folded over and therefor not actually closing the top of the reservoir. I also found a kink in the drain tubing from the reservoir. I fixed both of those issues. Thanks to rbentnail for suggesting I look for those.

I drained the coolant and removed and tested the thermostat by boiling it in water, on the stove (don't tell the Mrs.). It worked as it should. When I refilled the radiator, it required about 100 mls more to fill than the amount I drained out. Huh? As RossKean suggested, there must have been an airlock somewhere in the cooling system! I also filled the reservoir tank to the "high" level.

I fired up the engine and everything seems to be running properly, now.

I synchronized the throttle bodies before re-installing the heat shield, t-bar and fuel tank.

Whew! Next project: Replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid and install new brake pads.

 

[RossKean]

I fired up the engine and everything seems to be running properly, now.

I synchronized the throttle bodies before re-installing the heat shield, t-bar and fuel tank.

I would suggest running it up until the fans come on and letting it cool to ambient a couple of times. Make sure the overflow reservoir is filled in between the heat cycles. Any remaining air will purge out through the reservoir and fresh coolant will be sucked in as everything cools.
I assume the temperature readout is as it should be.

Did you remove the tank to do this stuff? Usually, it is sufficient to remove the trim and two front bolts, loosen the rear bolt and prop up the front of the tank (I have a piece of 2 x 4 that is just the right length). I only remove the tank for a valve check...

Yes, as mentioned by rbentnail (and me) the condition of the hose that goes to the bottom of the reservoir is critical for proper function. Keep an eye on the reservoir for embrittlement and cracks - a reported problem for a few Gen II of that vintage (including mine).

 

[MotoMike]

RossKean,

I did not remove the fuel tank, only lifted it and propped it up as you described. As for the coolant reservoir, I removed it from the bike, flushed it with hot water and inspected it. When cleaned, it looked brand-new.

The temperature readout was as it should be. When the fans came on, the readout did decrease until the fans turned off, then increased again. I will cycle through engine-on-until fans-turn-on, then-allow-engine-to-cool when I get back home.

BTW: Does anyone have a recommendation on good, relatively inexpensive brake pads?

 

[RossKean]

BTW: Does anyone have a recommendation on good, relatively inexpensive brake pads?

I have always used the EBC HH pads as replacements. When comparing prices to Yamaha OEM (fronts), remember that Yamaha's come two to a package and EBC comes four to a package. The EBC last about the same as OEM and work just as well. Check out FortNine and Amazon...
Note: I often swap front pads around at tire change time to even out the wear.

Nice to get the cooling system sorted out - I love zero cost solutions!

 

[Ridge]

I am the third owner of a 2007 FJR1300A. I purchased it in May of 2020 with 49,600 km on the odometer. I have kept up with all the required maintenance as per the owner's manual. All the work done on the bike since I purchased it has been done by me. The most recent upgrade was in Jan of 2023 at 76,000km when I changed the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) for a new one (green dot) (following the instructions posted by yamafitter in April, 2011). The bike performed well for the first half of the 2023 riding season. Around August, the bike started acting up......on occasion it would not start unless I held the throttle wide open. Then the bike seemed to run hotter than usual and also did not feel like it had the same acceleration as I was used to. Then, at some gas stops, when I tried to start up after the fill-up, the orange "Check engine" light would come on and the starter would not turn (the bike would start if I let it sit for 15 minutes or so). Finally, it showed Fault Code 12 along with the "Check engine" light and no-go when the start button was pushed. Luckily, this happened in my garage at the end of the riding season.

According to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) Fault Code 12 indicates: "No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor". So, I removed the air box to be able to access the connector under the throttle bodies. That connector seemed to have loose internal connections. I checked the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor (which was within spec at 485ohms). I checked the integrity of the wires in the harness on the other side of the connector (which were good). So I deduced that it must be a bad connector. I cut out the connector and tried to solder the wires together only to discover that I am really bad at soldering. I ended up resorting to butt connectors.

I re-assembled everything and turned on the ignition: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance" the fuel pump did it's thing and the Fault Code 12 was cleared! I did MY happy dance! I pressed the start button and.....the "check engine" light lit up and nothing else happened. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on again: the requisite lights flashed, the needles did their "happy dance", the fuel pump did it's thing and........Fault Code 12 was back along with the "check engine" light. Pressing the start button achieved nothing.

I looked through the diagnostic code memory. The only code in there was fault code 14. I will be checking that.

My only thought is that I will have to replace the crankshaft position sensor despite the test being within spec. Before I do that, I would like to hear your thoughts and any other helpful suggestions on how to proceed from here. Your attention and time is greatly appreciated.

Mike

Hey Mike, you probably checked this (closely) already but when you replaced the timing case cover , you didn’t by chance pinch the crank sensor wire ….. like I did.lol

 

[MotoMike]

Thanks for your input. See post #8 on p.1.