Final Drive 4 Acorn Nuts-Torque

[Tommy Kay]

Mcatrophy... What do you mean by tiger cub?

 

[mcatrophy]

Mcatrophy... What do you mean by tiger cub?

Linky

 

[GPRIDER]

I've removed the pumpkin from 3 FJRs many times. Never used Loctite. No problems. Just a personal preference. Getting a torque wrench on all of the nuts is a little tricky. I figure it's ok as long as I get close. Main reason I use a torque wrench is I have the uncanny ability to over tighten smaller bolts.

GP

 

[art miller]

I've removed the pumpkin from 3 FJRs many times. Never used Loctite. No problems. Just a personal preference. Getting a torque wrench on all of the nuts is a little tricky. I figure it's ok as long as I get close. Main reason I use a torque wrench is I have the uncanny ability to over tighten smaller bolts.

GP

Getting a torque wrench on the lower inside nut was impossible. I hand tightened it and am confident it will be fine. I used ACF50 on the threads and wiped them well prior to assembly. That should prevent corrosion.

 

[Gary B]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll give it 30 lbs/ft and dry threads.
One more question if I may. While the final drive is out and the shaft removed, I would like to clean and lube the splines on the engine end of the unit. Do I have to remove the foot peg assembly to enable my pulling the U-joint. I removed the dust guard but could not figure how to remove the fastener that holds the other shield. It looks like a punch rivet but it does not release even with a good deal of pushing force. The diagram on the Forum thread seems to show it as a threaded fastener. There is no hex head or screw driver slot on mine. If any of you who have a Genlll removed that plastic please do tell. Did you have to remove the foot peg bracket in order to remove the plastic? Thanks for your usual good advice. Art

That fastener is a push-pin type, the same as used on the fairing inner panels. Push the centre of it with a small Allen key till it pops then pull the fastener out with fingernails.

Did my final drive shaft last month, not in great condition for a three-year old bike.

 

[Gary B]

...It could be a quarter turn fastener, I can't remember! Will have a crosshead if it is, just turn and pull. I did struggle slightly getting it back in, I do remember that!

GB

 

[art miller]

It must be a push-pin type. I used a mirror and there was no slot for turning it. Perhaps I did not press hard enough on the center of the fastener. Nest time I change the rear tire I will go at it again. Thanks for your input.

 

[MNFJR]

It must be a push-pin type. I used a mirror and there was no slot for turning it. Perhaps I did not press hard enough on the center of the fastener. Nest time I change the rear tire I will go at it again. Thanks for your input.

On Gen 1 it is a 1/4 turn, but hard to see the slots without good light. . A small phillips works well. Maybe they changed it for later models.

 

[MajBach]

Just do what the engineers put in the shop manual. 30 and no locktite.
Seems reasonable to me and anything else is opinion.

I bet that the guys that designed it know what they are doing.

I wonder if those are the same guys that designed the bolts on the center stand.

 

[MajBach]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll give it 30 lbs/ft and dry threads.
One more question if I may. While the final drive is out and the shaft removed, I would like to clean and lube the splines on the engine end of the unit. Do I have to remove the foot peg assembly to enable my pulling the U-joint. I removed the dust guard but could not figure how to remove the fastener that holds the other shield. It looks like a punch rivet but it does not release even with a good deal of pushing force. The diagram on the Forum thread seems to show it as a threaded fastener. There is no hex head or screw driver slot on mine. If any of you who have a Genlll removed that plastic please do tell. Did you have to remove the foot peg bracket in order to remove the plastic? Thanks for your usual good advice. Art

Ironically, I did this on mine yesterday. The U-Joint area really needed cleaning and the foot peg was easy to remove. I noticed the bolts there were corroded and also in need of TLC. I did not remove the 'other' shield; no need to.