Final Drive

[flienlow]

Sorry for the noob question here, but this is the first shaft drive bike that i have owned.

From what I am reading, the final drive oil while obviously very important, is also something that I need to check often? I think I remember reading in the manual something about checking it before each ride? I now have 600 miles on my bike. I am ready for the first oil change, and plan to replace the final drive oil. Kinda looks easy, drain from botton, and then fill it back up to the top while rotating the wheel a few times?

On another note, I think I will do the service myself. The throttles prolly should be sync'd but I will hold off on that. Same with the valves, dealer even told me that the valve adjust is a colossal waste of money.

 

[JimLor]

Have to admit that I never check it other than to change it! You're correct that it's easy to do. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w/90 vice the pricey Yamaha stuff - many do.

Funny to see this post - I was looking the bike over last night and thought that maybe I should check the rear end fluid...

 

[flienlow]

Have to admit that I never check it other than to change it! You're correct that it's easy to do. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w/90 vice the pricey Yamaha stuff - many do. Funny to see this post - I was looking the bike over last night and thought that maybe I should check the rear end fluid...

Thanks for the advice on the Mobile 1. Do you use Yama lube for the engine?

Also, I have been noticeing that there is a tiny about of oil (seeping) around the nuts on the final drive. Its not dripping but any means, just enough where dirt sticks to it, I take that this is normal?

 

[Ignacio]

Very easy maintenance item. If it's the first change of the rear oil you'll probably notice it's more opaque and has a sheen to it. I believe it's because they put a molybdenum additive for the break-in. It will get cleaner as you do more changes. There's a magnetic drain plug that you should wipe any metal particles off of as well.

I'll be honest that I don't check the level between changes. I put in the Mobil and let her go for the 4,000 miles.

A bit of oil around that area isn't surprising.

A throttle body synch is one of those that sounds hard, but is surprisingly easy if you see it demonstrated once. The most time consuming part is taking off trim pieces and raising the tank actually. Plus you would need a set of gauges. I wouldn't miss it at your next service though.

And remember the valve adjustment isn't until 26,000 and I wouldn't ignore that one just from a warranty coverage issue. If you get a ticker (God forbid) and didn't get the valves checked.....well, I know I'm at 25,700 after this weekend and planning to take it in this week.

 

[flienlow]

Where do you get throttle sync gages?

 

[Ignacio]

Where do you get throttle sync gages?

FJRGoodies.com.

Called them up as it's not on their website. Guru Glenn hooked me up with a set of "Motion Pro Economy Mercury Carb Tuner". Of course they work on fuel injected throttle bodies. I think I paid about $40 about 18 months ago. I have them hung on a coat hanger and inserted the little restrictors that came with them to make them less jumpy when taking readings.

FJRGoodies (aka Sunnyside Motorcycle) use the deluxe version in the shop, but they're more like $70 or $80.

One could also Google and see images and other sources for them. I just know Guru Glenn treats me well.

.....or the Morgan Carb Tune which Skooter is about to tell you about....if you want to spend $100....

 

[SkooterG]

I highly recommend the Morgan Carbtune. CLICKY HERE

No mercury, compact, and works great. I know California Sport Touring carry's the Carbtune, google for other vendors.

And as for the final drive - IMHO there is absolutely no need to check it between the 16,000 mile drain and replace interval unless you see A LOT of oil leaking from it. It's pretty simple and bulletproof.