HaulinAshe
Well-known member
I bought both the Universal Electrical Connection system and the grounding block from CA Sport Touring. Also found some very small width female spade connectors at Advance Auto, made for audio connections, that fit the spade pins on the infamous Blue Connector very well.
Here's a synopsis of what connections/circuits I have settled on:
* Front Farkle Connector, Use a 6-pin male/female plug I ordered from CA Sport Touring to present three circuits near the ignition switch. The male end could easily be pulled and reconfigured/rewired for adding/deleting up-front farkles without having to go back in the tupperware. This has been my main goal all along. There will be two pins for each circuit, one ground and one positive. The grounds all tie together at the plug and feed to a common 14-gauge wire leading directly to the battery.
* Front Connector Circuit-1, Up-Front Farkles, Parallel connection to the Auxiliary DC socket in the Accessory box. This circuit is currently fused at 3 amps and goes live with ignition ON. I am also considering an ignition noise filter on this line and placing it in the cavity near the glove box.
* Front Connector Circuit-2, Post-start Farkles, Connection to the infamous Blue Connector lead that originates from the Headlight relay. This circuit is intended to carry the extra load of heated grips and only goes live after the engine starts. This is where I plan to connect my radar detector to avoid the boot up errors from starter drain.
* Front Connector Circuit-3, Heated Grips. The plan here is to make a second connection to the infamous Blue Connector and route a wire with a bullet splice near the Heated Grip Controller panel plate. In the absence of heated grips (now), I will leave the bullets connected. If I add heated grips then all I have to do is remove the panel filler and connect into the loop.
One question I do have is concerning heated grips. The Yami grips are shown as two elements in series to the controller. Are all heated grips series or are some individual parallel connections?
* Rear Auxiliary Circuit, Using 10-gauge wire running from the battery posts all the way to the tail cavity. I bought a 14-gauge fusible link (the recommended size for 10-gauge circuits) that will be placed as close to the battery positive lead as possible. At the rear, this circuit passes through a 30-amp fuse provided with the Electrical Connections relay controlled distribution block. The 10-gauge ground will be connected to an Electrical Connections ground block. The relay gets activated by the blue wire feeding the tail lights that routes near the air box and ECU. Easily accessible signal point (thanks to help from the forum).
This circuit will be in place for future expansion like heated gear, battery charger (connected as suggested by Electrical Connections to the Normally-closed relay pin), and who the hell knows what other electronic gadgets.
All this should provide me easy access to all fuses, power readily available both up front and under the seat, and all of it switch controlled or start delayed. And most of all... I hope to NEVER have to go inside that damn tupperware again!
:yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:
Here's a synopsis of what connections/circuits I have settled on:
* Front Farkle Connector, Use a 6-pin male/female plug I ordered from CA Sport Touring to present three circuits near the ignition switch. The male end could easily be pulled and reconfigured/rewired for adding/deleting up-front farkles without having to go back in the tupperware. This has been my main goal all along. There will be two pins for each circuit, one ground and one positive. The grounds all tie together at the plug and feed to a common 14-gauge wire leading directly to the battery.
* Front Connector Circuit-1, Up-Front Farkles, Parallel connection to the Auxiliary DC socket in the Accessory box. This circuit is currently fused at 3 amps and goes live with ignition ON. I am also considering an ignition noise filter on this line and placing it in the cavity near the glove box.
* Front Connector Circuit-2, Post-start Farkles, Connection to the infamous Blue Connector lead that originates from the Headlight relay. This circuit is intended to carry the extra load of heated grips and only goes live after the engine starts. This is where I plan to connect my radar detector to avoid the boot up errors from starter drain.
* Front Connector Circuit-3, Heated Grips. The plan here is to make a second connection to the infamous Blue Connector and route a wire with a bullet splice near the Heated Grip Controller panel plate. In the absence of heated grips (now), I will leave the bullets connected. If I add heated grips then all I have to do is remove the panel filler and connect into the loop.
One question I do have is concerning heated grips. The Yami grips are shown as two elements in series to the controller. Are all heated grips series or are some individual parallel connections?
* Rear Auxiliary Circuit, Using 10-gauge wire running from the battery posts all the way to the tail cavity. I bought a 14-gauge fusible link (the recommended size for 10-gauge circuits) that will be placed as close to the battery positive lead as possible. At the rear, this circuit passes through a 30-amp fuse provided with the Electrical Connections relay controlled distribution block. The 10-gauge ground will be connected to an Electrical Connections ground block. The relay gets activated by the blue wire feeding the tail lights that routes near the air box and ECU. Easily accessible signal point (thanks to help from the forum).
This circuit will be in place for future expansion like heated gear, battery charger (connected as suggested by Electrical Connections to the Normally-closed relay pin), and who the hell knows what other electronic gadgets.
All this should provide me easy access to all fuses, power readily available both up front and under the seat, and all of it switch controlled or start delayed. And most of all... I hope to NEVER have to go inside that damn tupperware again!
:yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:
