First gen timing chain questions.

[RookieRider]

Hello folks, I'm back with more questions about my bike.

I've heard some stirrings about first gen FJR's having issues with timing chain tensioners and I'm trying to find out how common this is. Also, what actions are needed to fix the possible issue.

My bike is a 2003 with 7600 miles on it. Yes seven thousand six hundred is correct. I don't have any service records so I'm assuming nothing major has ever been done to the bike.

On a side note, before spring I'm going to do some work to the bike including spark plugs, final drive oil and a throttle body sync.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[ionbeam]

Replace the CCT with a new one. Any new CCT will be the updated design and work fine. There are several good 'How To' threads in this Forum, the trick is to not let the cam chain get enough slack to jump a tooth on any of the three sprockets. While not an emergency with such a low mileage engine, it's something that eventually you should get around to. You should be safe to wait until the first valve adjustment.

The way the CCT is assembled it is possible to have one set with the tensioning spring tight and the next one with the spring insufficiently tight. Luck of the draw -- or not. The original CCT on my FJR had almost no tension from new. The tensioning plunger is half way extended to start with and the spring pressure falls off very quickly as it extends further to take up chain wear.

 

[Fred W]

Wow. 7600 miles is barely broken in. But you probably already knew that when you bought it.

The original FJR timing chain tensioners, which your original '03 would have in it, had a wimpy spring in them. and since there is no ratcheting mechanism in the tensioner design, there was a possibility of the chain compressing the tensioner and creating enough slack for the chain to skip a few teeth on the crankshaft drive sprocket. Since it is an interference engine, skipping a few teeth results in piston valve collision that bends the valves at best, and can damage piston crowns at worst. The rate of occurrence is not huge, but the unfortunate consequences are, so many owners will replace the old tensioner with one of the newer design. The part number will automatically change up to the new one if you order the part from Yamaha. When you have the part in hand, the updated part will have either a blue, or more lately green, paint dot on the body of the tensioner.

The job is a bit tricky (tight spaces) and you do want to open the timing cover and restrain the chain while swapping the tensioners, so browse around and find one of the accounts of the job here on the forum that gives you the details before you begin.

edit - and this time Professor ionbeam beat me in the typing.

 

[RookieRider]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate it!

 

[Queensland Ken]

Yamaha are on their 3rd design of the CCT.

Do it for peace of mind, there has been a few horror stories.

 

[RookieRider]

Dumb question, but what does CCT stand for?

 

[user 6393]

cam chain tensioner

Yamaha are on their 3rd design of the CCT.Do it for peace of mind, there has been a few horror stories.

I waited until my first valve check and had no issues, but for piece of mind it is worth every penny

 

[rbentnail]

cam chain tensioner

Yamaha are on their 3rd design of the CCT.Do it for peace of mind, there has been a few horror stories.

I waited until my first valve check and had no issues, but for piece of mind it is worth every penny

I waited until my 2nd valve check, around 52k. I can't believe people are saying "do it!!" on a bike with 7,600 miles. What a waste of time. Just wait until you do a valve check, IMHO it's not a crucial item that has to be done right now.

 

[ionbeam]

Dumb question, but what does CCT stand for?

Cam Chain Tensioner. As the cam chain wears it gets longer, often misnamed cam chain stretch. The cam chain synchronizes the mechanical rotation of the crank shaft with the positions of the intake valve's cam and the exhaust valve's cam. If the chain were allowed to have slack the synchronization would be sloppy leading to reduced engine performance. Once the slack gets bad enough the cam chain can skip a tooth or more on the crank sprocket and then bad things happen, like the valves will be moving down into the cylinder while the piston is going up. $$$CUNCH$$$. You really do want the CCT to keep the slack out of the cam chain.

cam chain tensioner

Yamaha are on their 3rd design of the CCT.Do it for peace of mind, there has been a few horror stories.

I waited until my first valve check and had no issues, but for piece of mind it is worth every penny

I waited until my 2nd valve check, around 52k. I can't believe people are saying "do it!!" on a bike with 7,600 miles. What a waste of time. Just wait until you do a valve check, IMHO it's not a crucial item that has to be done right now.

I know one poor SOB that didn't make 40k miles before his cam chain skipped teeth on the crank sprocket while (attempting to) starting the engine.

 

[rbentnail]

Dumb question, but what does CCT stand for?

Cam Chain Tensioner. As the cam chain wears it gets longer, often misnamed cam chain stretch. The cam chain synchronizes the mechanical rotation of the crank shaft with the positions of the intake valve's cam and the exhaust valve's cam. If the chain were allowed to have slack the synchronization would be sloppy leading to reduced engine performance. Once the slack gets bad enough the cam chain can skip a tooth or more on the crank sprocket and then bad things happen, like the valves will be moving down into the cylinder while the piston is going up. $$$CUNCH$$$. You really do want the CCT to keep the slack out of the cam chain.

cam chain tensioner

Yamaha are on their 3rd design of the CCT.Do it for peace of mind, there has been a few horror stories.

I waited until my first valve check and had no issues, but for piece of mind it is worth every penny

I waited until my 2nd valve check, around 52k. I can't believe people are saying "do it!!" on a bike with 7,600 miles. What a waste of time. Just wait until you do a valve check, IMHO it's not a crucial item that has to be done right now.

I know one poor SOB that didn't make 40k miles before his cam chain skipped teeth on the crank sprocket while (attempting to) starting the engine.

One out of how many? And I'm not talking 40k miles here. I'm saying to replace the CCT at 7600 is just plain silly. Do the deed at 26 (or so) k miles, when things are apart already for the regularly scheduled valve check.

 

[ionbeam]

I know one poor SOB that didn't make 40k miles before his cam chain skipped teeth on the crank sprocket while (attempting to) starting the engine.

One out of how many? And I'm not talking 40k miles here. I'm saying to replace the CCT at 7600 is just plain silly. Do the deed at 26 (or so) k miles, when things are apart already for the regularly scheduled valve check.

I agree, at the first valve check is a good time to do the CCT exchange as noted in my post #2 in this thread.

 

[Fred W]

But...

If one were determined to do it before the first valve check, or between checks at any mileage, it doesn't require a great deal of work to access the CCT. You really only need to remove the right side lower faring panel, and the timing chain cover on that side, so that you can secure the chain tension while removing the CCT. No need to do any disassembly under the tank like you do to check the valves.

Here is my patented method of holding the chain tight while the CCT is removed. That is a 1/4" drive 10mm socket that I'm pointing to, that fit perfectly behind the rear chain guide, which is the one that the tensioner normally pushes against. JAm that in there before removing any tension and you are good to go.

 

[rbentnail]

Patented method or no, I highly recommend that the novice to this procedure NOT follow the above and wait to replace the CCT when the valve cover is off. Many of us discovered the hard way that no amount of sockets, zip ties or mechanic's wire can guarantee a proper job and that the ONLY way to ensure the chain hasn't slipped a tooth is to check all 3 timing marks per the FSM instructions. That requires the valve and timing chain covers to be removed.

 

[Fred W]

Sorry to disagree, but that just is not necessary.

So long as the rear chain guide remains in the tensioned position there is no way in the world that the chain will move anywhere. It isn't even very tricky to accomplish this.

The only way it would be able to skip a tooth anywhere is if you (somehow) allow the chain to become slack, which is what was happening at dealerships when they just pulled out the CCT to replace it without doing anything to the chain below.

Jamming a socket in the way I showed will ensure the chain does not become slack. You could also ty-wrap the chain across to the front side run of chain and that would accomplish the same thing.

 

[Mr Bill]

Hello folks, I'm back with more questions about my bike.

See if there are any recalls that need to be done. I know there is one important one. TPS replacement. Throttle Position Sensor

I don't recall if there are any more recalls.

Three of the best year 2003 bikes lined up for a ferry ride:

 

[becoyote]

Anybody switch to a manual cct? Switching my Tenere to a manual cct this weekend after the "updated" factory cct didnt inspire confidence.

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, Radio Howie switched to a manual CCT after he lunched his engine on his 1st Gen. Have not heard of too many others.

 

[HyperPete]

Hello folks, I'm back with more questions about my bike.

See if there are any recalls that need to be done. I know there is one important one. TPS replacement. Throttle Position Sensor

I don't recall if there are any more recalls.

There is also the luggage rack kit / recall, if you plan to carry luggage or heavy items on the bike.

Although you can check for recalls HERE, it provided me misinformation. It showed the TPS recall as open on my 2004, and did not mention the Luggage Rack Kit. I took it in to my shop for the 1st and they did the second, as that was all mother Yamaha showed open.

 

[ionbeam]

Hello folks, I'm back with more questions about my bike.

See if there are any recalls that need to be done. I know there is one important one. TPS replacement. Throttle Position Sensor

I don't recall if there are any more recalls.

There is also the luggage rack kit / recall, if you plan to carry luggage or heavy items on the bike.

Although you can check for recalls HERE, it provided me misinformation. It showed the TPS recall as open on my 2004, and did not mention the Luggage Rack Kit. I took it in to my shop for the 1st and they did the second, as that was all mother Yamaha showed open.

There is a very important distinction between a Factory Recall and a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB).

Typically a Recall will be related to safety, fundamental function or reliability, the owners will be notified by mail if possible, and can come with a notice that the motorcycle is not to be ridden until the solution is applied. A TSB is a notice to dealers by Yamaha that some item or function needs correction and it contains the rework instructions with a parts list but it isn't a critical issue.

Asking a dealer about Recalls will get you just that, the critical repairs and updates that Yamaha must complete. You would probably have to ask the dealer to lookup TSB issues for your make/model Yamaha and there could be an extensive list of things that should be fixed as opposed to Recall items which MUST be fixed.

Giving you VIN to a Yamaha service shop will let them see all the recalls for your year FJR and let them see if Yamaha has applied the necessary remedy. The dealer information should be accurate and complete about recalls. You will have to ask about TSB items; the dealer will have a LOT of TSB items for all the products they service and may balk at looking them up.