first TBS using Motion Pro. HELP.

[Mike P]

I borrowed a Sync Pro from a friend and the scale has increments but no notations as to what each increment is. i can not find any info on MP's site. Anyone have any clue?

 

[wfooshee]

You just match the cylinders to each other, you don't actually calibrate them to a set amount of vacuum. It's a syncronizing adjustment, not an absolute tuning adjustment.

Mostly everyone picks #3 as "the standard" and matches the others to it.

The Sync Pro has a "calibration" which is required before the TBS, however. You hook all four tubes to a single cylinder (doesn't matter which one) using the supplied manifold adapter (5 tubes into one) and use the adjustment screws at the units base to set the fluid to the same level in each tube. If your friend has taken care of his unit, the tube and manifold for that procedure is clipped to the side of the tool. Once they match at that point, i.e. show the same reading from the same cylinder, you proceed with the TBS. Just match 'em all to #3, make sure your idle stays correct (1100 rpm) during the procedure, and adjust that if needed.

 

[Mike P]

You just match the cylinders to each other, you don't actually calibrate them to a set amount of vacuum. It's a syncronizing adjustment, not an absolute tuning adjustment.
Mostly everyone picks #3 as "the standard" and matches the others to it.

The Sync Pro has a "calibration" which is required before the TBS, however. You hook all four tubes to a single cylinder (doesn't matter which one) using the supplied manifold adapter (5 tubes into one) and use the adjustment screws at the units base to set the fluid to the same level in each tube. If your friend has taken care of his unit, the tube and manifold for that procedure is clipped to the side of the tool. Once they match at that point, i.e. show the same reading from the same cylinder, you proceed with the TBS. Just match 'em all to #3, make sure your idle stays correct (1100 rpm) during the procedure, and adjust that if needed.

I'm aware of the pre sync before doing the TBS and for some reason I don't know if it was embedded in my brain from reading here or what but I subconsciously used #3 as the base to tune the others. After I did that and tuned them all out to a straight line to #3 I went back with an independent vacuum gauge to each line and they all measured 9HG even but according to FJR Tech the specs say 9.8hg so I'm assuming it's close enough.

 

[rbentnail]

You just match the cylinders to each other, you don't actually calibrate them to a set amount of vacuum. It's a syncronizing adjustment, not an absolute tuning adjustment.
Mostly everyone picks #3 as "the standard" and matches the others to it.

The Sync Pro has a "calibration" which is required before the TBS, however. You hook all four tubes to a single cylinder (doesn't matter which one) using the supplied manifold adapter (5 tubes into one) and use the adjustment screws at the units base to set the fluid to the same level in each tube. If your friend has taken care of his unit, the tube and manifold for that procedure is clipped to the side of the tool. Once they match at that point, i.e. show the same reading from the same cylinder, you proceed with the TBS. Just match 'em all to #3, make sure your idle stays correct (1100 rpm) during the procedure, and adjust that if needed.

I'm aware of the pre sync before doing the TBS and for some reason I don't know if it was embedded in my brain from reading here or what but I subconsciously used #3 as the base to tune the others. After I did that and tuned them all out to a straight line to #3 I went back with an independent vacuum gauge to each line and they all measured 9HG even but according to FJR Tech the specs say 9.8hg so I'm assuming it's close enough.

I did it the other way around- I hooked the vacuum gage to #3 first but could get only ~9.2"hg. Then I used the SynchPro. Works fine.

 

[3dogs]

I have been syncing motorcycle carbs/throttle bodies for many years and have never look/cared what the actual vacuum reading was. As long as the idle speed is in the ball park and the cylinders are close when the engine is reved up that's all that matters. Vacuum levels will change depending lots of variables--idle speed, altitude, engine mechanical condition and how accurate the vacuum gage really is--who cares. Get the cylinders synced and ride.

 

[big ears]

I got the same tool and just get them all lined up like the others said.

 

[Mike P]

I've done the synch. Bar vibes are all but eliminated, low speed drive ability is waaaaay better. I'll be ordering my own merc tool soon though. I wasn't impressed with the motion pro.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Morgan Carbtune Pro is best. No toxins either. I have a Morgan Carbtune II, works great.

Do a Google search, FJR forum members love them. Motion Pro has had some issues, some have had no issues. Never heard any bad things about the MC Pro.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Morgan Carbtune Pro is best. No toxins either. I have a Morgan Carbtune II, works great.
Do a Google search, FJR forum members love them. Motion Pro has had some issues, some have had no issues. Never heard any bad things about the MC Pro.

Can you buy it in the US???

 

[FJRBluesman]

Morgan Carbtune Pro is best. No toxins either. I have a Morgan Carbtune II, works great.Do a Google search, FJR forum members love them. Motion Pro has had some issues, some have had no issues. Never heard any bad things about the MC Pro.

Can you buy it in the US???

[SIZE=14pt]YES[/SIZE].