I've read several threads about stopping in 3rd gear ect to aid in the clutch disengage rpm problem. I had the same problem where I would be coming to a stop and the brakes would pull the rpms down to about 900 rpm and then the clutch would disengage.
A little about my background is I built road racing motors for 10+ years then moved to metric cruises. In 2004, I designed, manufactured and sold a dual intake system for the Honda VTX 1800 (Double X) so I know how the intake systems work.
I didn't like how the clutch disengage rpm was (partly because I installed a cruise control and when I was adding the pull cable to the throttle bodies, settings changed a little). I wanted to make sure all throttle plates were closing 100% so I loosened all throttle stops (yes the ones that you are not suppose to change), I then changed the sync screws so cylinders 3 & 4 were closed and 1 & 2 were open slightly. I then changed the sync screw between 3 & 4 so cylinder 4 was closed only. I did this to be sure there were no throttle syncs holding open the throttle plate I was adjusting. From there, I turned in/ out the throttle stop until it just touched the stop plate and tightened the lock nut. I then changed the sync screw so #4 was being held open and #3 was closed, repeated, and again for # 1 and 2. After this, I know my throttle plates are closed 100%, I adjusted the main throttle plate stop just enough so I didn't feel the throttle plates stick when I snapped the throttle shut and then open again.
Next, I plugged off the air feed to the idle system and synchronized the 4 butterflies (run the bike at 2,000-3000 rpm for this). When that is done, the motor should kill when you let go of the throttle. If it doesn't, you still have throttle plates letting air past them.
Finally, unplugged the air supply to the idle system and synchronize the idle.
I lower my rpms to 800 and went for a ride. When I come to a stop, my clutch disengages at exactly 1000 rpms, then it would drop another 200 rpms and start idling. From there, I bumped my rpms up to match the disengage rpm and it is perfect. I feel Yamaha did it right. When extra air is coming in past the throttle plates, the idle setting is changed to off-set it but the computer registers that where the idle is set, the motor should idle at a lower rpm and disengages the clutch at a lower rpm. Maybe I just got lucky and mine is working correctly now. Just sharing what I found.
Kevin
2009 AE
A little about my background is I built road racing motors for 10+ years then moved to metric cruises. In 2004, I designed, manufactured and sold a dual intake system for the Honda VTX 1800 (Double X) so I know how the intake systems work.
I didn't like how the clutch disengage rpm was (partly because I installed a cruise control and when I was adding the pull cable to the throttle bodies, settings changed a little). I wanted to make sure all throttle plates were closing 100% so I loosened all throttle stops (yes the ones that you are not suppose to change), I then changed the sync screws so cylinders 3 & 4 were closed and 1 & 2 were open slightly. I then changed the sync screw between 3 & 4 so cylinder 4 was closed only. I did this to be sure there were no throttle syncs holding open the throttle plate I was adjusting. From there, I turned in/ out the throttle stop until it just touched the stop plate and tightened the lock nut. I then changed the sync screw so #4 was being held open and #3 was closed, repeated, and again for # 1 and 2. After this, I know my throttle plates are closed 100%, I adjusted the main throttle plate stop just enough so I didn't feel the throttle plates stick when I snapped the throttle shut and then open again.
Next, I plugged off the air feed to the idle system and synchronized the 4 butterflies (run the bike at 2,000-3000 rpm for this). When that is done, the motor should kill when you let go of the throttle. If it doesn't, you still have throttle plates letting air past them.
Finally, unplugged the air supply to the idle system and synchronize the idle.
I lower my rpms to 800 and went for a ride. When I come to a stop, my clutch disengages at exactly 1000 rpms, then it would drop another 200 rpms and start idling. From there, I bumped my rpms up to match the disengage rpm and it is perfect. I feel Yamaha did it right. When extra air is coming in past the throttle plates, the idle setting is changed to off-set it but the computer registers that where the idle is set, the motor should idle at a lower rpm and disengages the clutch at a lower rpm. Maybe I just got lucky and mine is working correctly now. Just sharing what I found.
Kevin
2009 AE
