FJR AS starter or battery ?

[Barnowl]

I keep my 2014 AS permanently garaged and connected to an Optimate ( charger ) . I also have aTom Tom Rider connected on a permanent live but switched off. A couple of weeks ago I ran the bike for about 5 mins outside, then parked back in the garage but forgot to reconnect the Optimate. 48 hours later bike wouldn't start. Instruments and lights came on, strangely, when operating the elec screen the menu jumped to suspension settings without touching the menu button.

Took bike for a 50 mile run and connected to a new Oxford Oximiser. Display showed 14.1 volts and all 8 bars showing high charge. Left connected for 2 days then disconnected for 6 days.

On day 6, reconnected Oximiser, reading showed > 13.5 volts, 0.87amps, with 7 of the 8 bars showing. However, bike wouldn't start...click...click...click! Connected Oximiser and 3 minutes ( yes 3 minutes ) later bike started, Oximiser showing same 13.5 volts and 0.87 amps. So, it's either a brilliant charger or it's a starter problem. As you would expect bike is now 6 months out of warranty, but a visit to the stealer is likely. Just wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem or can offer any ideas.

Thnx

 

[Intech]

Have you eliminated the simple stuff like making sure your battery connections are tight? A lose connection can cause some weird symptoms. It is also not out of the question that the battery is shot.

 

[RossKean]

Is the voltage staying up while you try to crank or does it drop to near zero? If it is dropping very low, I would guess the battery (get it load-tested). Dropping to 8-10 V could mean starter (or battery). Might be worth checking out the starter solenoid before getting into the starter itself. The definitive test for the starter is measuring the starter current with a clamp-on DC ammeter while cranking - some threads on here about "normal" starting currents. Note: The cranking test has to be with a battery that is fully charged and known to be good.

There is no need to leave the battery on a tender all of the time! I have never used a tender. In the winter off-season, I do a top-off charge every couple of months. (OEM battery going on 9 years and 160,000 mi.) I have seen a number of instances where a "bad" battery tender ruined batteries.

 

[RaYzerman19]

You might start by cleaning the battery connections and see if your problem persists. The battery should start the bike if only sitting 48 hours...... if battery is suspect, which a load test could confirm. If I let mine sit after a ride, it usually takes 5-6 days to drop to 12.5V. I only see 14+ V when running, and 13.2 when on a Battery Tender..... Oximiser may have a desulphating feature which would explain your 14.1V. But I would take all readings with a known voltmeter with chargers disconnected.

I would take the TomTom out of the mount, as it may be charging its battery when turned off, potentially causing a larger than normal parasitic draw. You could also check if there's a larger than normal parasitic draw while you are cleaning those battery connections..........

 

[TomInPA]

I strongly suspect the battery. A starter failure is extremely rare in a bike this age and miles, while a battery failure is very common, especially with infrequent use or constant float charging. 3-years is a common lifetime for AGM batteries in starter service.

The constant use of a battery maintainer is very hard on a battery. Although in theory the maintainer is automatic and cuts charge to the battery, most actually continue to put small amounts of current through the battery. The amplitude of that voltage varies between 0.2 volts and 0.6 volts above the rest state voltage of the battery when it is fully charged. The purpose of continuous float/maintenance mode charging is to maintain the battery in a fully charged condition so that when it is called into service, it will be able to deliver its full charge capacity. It actually causes batteries to form internal resistance that can show a good charge state, but fail to deliver cranking amps (current).

In spite of improvements with battery maintainers, a much better strategy with starting batteries is to bring them up to full charge weekly or monthly, and then just leave them off of the maintainer. A battery will discharge over time, and will fully discharge over several months. Leaving it off of a maintainer for a month at a time is IMO better for the battery, than constant float charging.

 

[Queensland Ken]

There is some good comments on this thread.

Heed the advice

The constant use of a battery maintainer is very hard on a battery.

I have known some well known maintainers that have destroyed batteries.

Hook them up and charge the batteries then fully disconnect them, do not leave them connected at all.

I do not know the quirks of that particular brand.

Charge them once every few months, leave the -Ve of the battery disconnected when in storage.

Stops parasitic current drain, all vehicles have it, I have to be careful with the FJR due the Scorpion alarm, even thou it's off.

My Subaru has a high drain.

The batteries of my 5 bikes seem OK after nearly a year of not riding.

All started at the first press of the starter button, maybe started twice in 11 months.

A good Volt meter and DC tong tester can be invaluable tools. And to know the specifications of the maintainer you are using.

And as mentioned make your battery connections are tight.