FJR ES on Gravel Roads, Suspension Setting?

[2wheels4fun]

What suspension setting on the ES model should I be using on gravel roads?

Soft = reduce the rattle of everything but would it bottom out and use the full travel of the suspension more and max it out?

Standard = Middle of the road between soft and hard.

Hard = Will not bottom out or max out suspension but would rattle everything apart?

Preload changes? Running with or without bags, one person.

Would setting it to soft and two people with bags stop it from maxing out the travel and reduce chance of bottoming out? This is my current thinking or just run it in standard mode and one person with or with bags depending I how I am currently running.

Also I have lowered the back with adjustable links by about 1"-1.5" and sometimes bottom out and hit the shock when going over speed bumps or steep pull ins when in soft mode, one person.

Gravel roads I ride is at 20mph, sometimes a small 1" deep hole, try to avoid most but sometimes hit one.

Look for ideas on which way would be the best way for most gravel roads. Tried to search forums for this info but did not really find anything on this topic with an ES version.

 

[sullivan]

Don't overthink it anymore than you already have. No magic answer other than try the medium setting and brake for the crap sections.

 

[Allen_C]

I've always switched to Soft and Tour mode for the throttle when on gravel roads. This combination seems to provide the best ride quality and keeps you from accidentally twisting the throttle and putting too much power to the reat wheel. The fact that you lowered the rear, presumably due to a short inseam, is going to cause you to bottom out occasionally.

 

[mcatrophy]

Agree with Allen_C about T-mode.

I've usually used standard damping. I found soft damping made the bike a bit less (even less?) stable, the hard setting was too uncomfortable.

I generally leave the load setting at whatever it was adjusted to for normal roads. Raising it might reduce any bottoming, but it also raises the ride height, and I like to be able to get my feet down should I need to.

The most interesting question is "should the traction control be turned off?" - I never have. (We don't get the option to turn off the ABS, so luckily that question doesn't come up.)

Point of reference, I weigh about 150 pounds plus kit, ride solo, but with an overload of luggage in panniers and top-box.

 

[CraigRegs]

I routinely run well-maintained gravel (meaning a packed track, not freshly graded) at 50mph. Freshly-graded is a different story, and introduces more pucker factor. The touring setting is a good idea, but like Sullivan said, don't overthink it. At 20mph, there's not a lot of handling to gain futzing with suspension settings.

 

[FJReady]

I've found that the biggest help to loose surface conditions is turning off TC. It very unnerving to me to have the bike slow down because of limited traction when all I am trying to do is get up a slight incline. I don't usually bother changing suspension settings unless I had been set on firm/hard and the loose section is long.

 

[MCRIDER007]

My ES has spent little time off-road but being one of a small group of riders who was foolish enough to ride a 900lb full dress touring bike up the 450 mile Dempster Highway to Inuvik, I think I have a pretty good understanding of what works when riding a street bike with street tires off-road. The biggest concern is having the front wheel suddenly turning sideways after going into deep sand or gravel. Next on the list would be having the front tire loosing traction on a curve causing a low side. Keep the front wheel straight and upright and the back end will follow.

If I were to ride the ES off-road for any distance I would bump the preload one setting over my normal street riding setting, use tour mode, and try to ride in as high of gear possible without lugging the engine. I would leave traction control on because chugging up a slippery hill at a very slow pace is better than not making it at all. Damping setting is probably the least important of all and just a personal choice, I would just leave it where I normally ride, which is standard.

Most important is speed, don't be in a hurry and don't get over confident when the road gets smooth because conditions can change very quickly and hazards often are hidden, especially deep sand holes.

 

[Spud]

I've done (and do) a lot of dirtbiking but would have to say I think the fastest I've ever been on dirt on a bike was the FJR when on a supremely smooth stretch of hard dirt I went 75 for a mile or so just to see what it would be like. Bike felt fine but braking distances would be ridiculously long and no chance of swerving to avoid anything so not a good idea... Sorry for thread highjack.

 

[2wheels4fun]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

As for the Touring mode, I leave it on that mode most of the time, > 90%. I only switch to sport mode on pavement when I keep hitting WOT and still need more power and don't want to wait. I feel it slows be down about 10 mph which is what I need most of the time getting on main highways. This is the most powerful bike I have every had by a lot. First bike over 50hp. I need more self control on the speed and the touring mode helps some.

Been using soft mode and increased the preload to max, 2 person and bags. Rode about 3 miles in gravel today in that set up.

 

[bigjohnsd]

My ES has spent little time off-road but being one of a small group of riders who was foolish enough to ride a 900lb full dress touring bike up the 450 mile Dempster Highway to Inuvik, I think I have a pretty good understanding of what works when riding a street bike with street tires off-road. The biggest concern is having the front wheel suddenly turning sideways after going into deep sand or gravel. Next on the list would be having the front tire loosing traction on a curve causing a low side. Keep the front wheel straight and upright and the back end will follow.

Tough enough with an overloaded KLR, my hat is off to you for taking the FJR up that road. No way in hell I would have made some of the sections of the Dempster that was being "Maintained" on my run last June on my FJR. 6" of heavy wet muddy gravel is not for me on that bike.

 

[MCRIDER007]

My ES has spent little time off-road but being one of a small group of riders who was foolish enough to ride a 900lb full dress touring bike up the 450 mile Dempster Highway to Inuvik, I think I have a pretty good understanding of what works when riding a street bike with street tires off-road. The biggest concern is having the front wheel suddenly turning sideways after going into deep sand or gravel. Next on the list would be having the front tire loosing traction on a curve causing a low side. Keep the front wheel straight and upright and the back end will follow.

Tough enough with an overloaded KLR, my hat is off to you for taking the FJR up that road. No way in hell I would have made some of the sections of the Dempster that was being "Maintained" on my run last June on my FJR. 6" of heavy wet muddy gravel is not for me on that bike.

It wasn’t a FJR, it was a 1989 Venture Royale and I was pulling a trailer...which helped some of the time because the drag kept the rear end from sliding out. It did not help the last 120 miles when we had 6-8 inches of newly dumped shale and had to ride in 16-20 inch tracks the big trucks made through the shale. The whole section was one long washboard that overwhelmed the suspension. Fortunately, it was dry but horribly dusty. I could see big trucks coming a mile away and they looked like a tornado was chasing them. I would stop in the road and turn my head away until after they passed and the dust settled.

 

[Lowcountry Joe]

I think just about any suspension setting will work. The key is controlling your speed, acell and decell, and braking. But I am sure you know that. Gravel roads always offer their special set of challenges.