FJR for a Trike?? Say it isn’t so...

[Redbird]

I am now officially three months out from a Total Knee Replacement performed on 12/10/20...Rehab (for this 61 year old) has been slow going and painful, but I keep hearing the voice of my Red French Hooker (2014 FJR with her Red sparkle) keeping me motivated to press on...

I also have to admit that I have needlessly spent maintenance dollars to my mechanic, (NOOB) for fear of screwing up my RFH, but alas, that has changed! I bit the bullet and used my time off during Rehab to do it myself.

The list of maintenance included;

Oil & Filter Change (Yamalube w/ K&N Filter and new Crush Washers), Air Filter Change, replaced Stock Sidestand with Soupy’s Adjustable Unit (I have Lowering Links), Changed Final Drive Oil, lubed Splines on Driveshaft ( Splines were as dry as a popcorn Fart ) lubed Axles and Bearings on both Wheels, cleaned Cailper Pistons and checked Pads, removed both wheels, brought to a shop for a swap of new Pirelli Angel GT’s (with mew Metal Valve Stems)...Oh, and installed a Carbon Fiber Fender Extender to boot!

Needless to say, I feel as proud as a Peacock (many thanks to the info on this Forum and Bryan Glynn Videos for support.) My 2014 FJR has only 14,434 miles on her, and it was winter here in the Northeast, so it worked out well. My last Farkle to prepare the bike for this riding season is a Custom Saddle from Terry Adcox, scheduled for build in Mid May.

BUT...I took the FJR on a test ride to scrub the new Pirellis and I had a real problem as I came to a stop. In all the years of riding, I never felt unsure of myself in any riding situation. Now, all 650 pounds of this bike has become intimidating...I always come to a stop with my left foot down, right foot remains on the peg. My balance is all screwed up for fear of the bike leaning too far right and the new knee unable to keep her upright...

I have factored in this being the first ride of the season, I do have a new knee (that is still in Rehab), I’m trying to trust myself on the maintenance I performed, etc.) I guess Guys, what I’m trying to say is, I’m mourning a future loss of not being able to ride the FJR that I’ve waited for many years just to own. No disrespect to Trike Owners, I’m just not ready to go there, DAMMIT! Rant officially over...

 

[infrared]

Redbird,

Well, there are trikes, and there are reverse (tadpole) trikes.  There are also tilting tadpole trikes.

Give this (9.5 min.) video an honest look.  It could be just what you want for now,
or it may start you on a search for more and better.

.

 

[BigOgre]

I'd also give your knee, and yourself, some more time.  Like so many other things confidence is oh so important.  As the knee gets stronger you'll be more secure with it.  Same goes with the wrenching you're taking on.  (Good on you btw.)  Just take it slow and double-check yourself at each step.  Especially with wheels and brakes!  

 

[Redbird]

I appreciate the vote of confidence! I bought a spanking new Torque Wrench (love that click sound) and other shiny new tools needed for the work. I’m thinking of trying to synchronize the throttle bodies, but I don’t even play a mechanic on TV

Im trying to be patient with the knee, but it’s warming up, snow is gone and feeling like a Wild Hog, gotta ride!

As for a Trike, I grew up with a three legged dog, got in more fights defending its honor...I’m too old to fight over a Bike with training wheels...

 

[infrared]

I appreciate the vote of confidence! I bought a spanking new Torque Wrench (love that click sound) and other shiny new tools needed for the work. I’m thinking of trying to synchronize the throttle bodies, but I don’t even play a mechanic on TV
Im trying to be patient with the knee, but it’s warming up, snow is gone and feeling like a Wild Hog, gotta ride!

Redbird,

As a New Guy with a Torque Wrench, you should know that they may need occasional calibration (or an "indicated/real" conversion table) to be trustworthy.  The clickers need to be set at a lower value (typically ~2/3 of the intended value) and clicked at that value several times, before setting at the final torque value needed.  The preliminary clicking gets the tool ready to be accurate.  Never store the torque wrench with a setting; run it back to zero, or close, to help preserve the calibration.  YouTube can show you some Quick-n-Dirty calibration checks for the DIY shop.
.

 

[mcatrophy]

Now, all 650 pounds of this bike has become intimidating...I always come to a stop with my left foot down, right foot remains on the peg. My balance is all screwed up for fear of the bike leaning too far right and the new knee unable to keep her upright...

Do what I do. When coming to rest, make sure the bike is going straight for at least the last couple of feet, use the front brake to slow to a stop (don't snatch it on a slippery surface ). Smooth is your friend. Bike will still be almost balanced. Put both feet down, it'll take no strength at all to maintain this balance point. I usually "play" when stopped at lights trying to make the bike balance while stationary, of course it won't, but it only takes the lightest of toe-taps one side or the other to stay upright.

If you need to change gear when stopped it's obviously a little different, so make sure you are in 1st as you come to rest. 

Moving from rest, just start off, you are already almost perfectly balanced. I usually have both feet on the pegs before the bike has moved, though I’m aided by having the YCC-S variant, it can't stall, and proper clutch engagement is guaranteed as the throttle is applied.

Journey's end, you do have the issue of deploying the side-stand, just give the process your full attention, it will not be too heavy.

If it's windy it does require a bit more, but it's got to be exceptional to be a real problem.

(Click on image for larger view)

 

[art miller]

Redbird,

As a New Guy with a Torque Wrench, you should know that they may need occasional calibration (or an "indicated/real" conversion table) to be trustworthy.  The clickers need to be set at a lower value (typically ~2/3 of the intended value) and clicked at that value several times, before setting at the final torque value needed.  The preliminary clicking gets the tool ready to be accurate.  Never store the torque wrench with a setting; run it back to zero, or close, to help preserve the calibration.  YouTube can show you some Quick-n-Dirty calibration checks for the DIY shop.
.

Tis. fir the tip on torque wrench prep. I never heard of that but will adopt the suggestion. 

 

[wetwolf]

My left knee is due for a new one. The only thing holding it together is the surrounding flesh, all ligaments are gone. Been this way for a year or so. I don't trust the thing at all, but i still manage to pilot the feejer just fine. Coming to a stop, I am always in 1st, both feet down. Parking it, 1st gear, right foot down, left leg does the kickstand. That way i KNOW the kickstand is down, as it kills the engine. ( i hate pickin the thing up if i drop it for stupid ****) To get into my garage, I have to pull down the driveway and do a 3 or 4 point turn so I can back it in. Thats a whole lot easier than trying to back it out and turn it around.

Your leg will get stronger and you won't have to worry about it, just keep up any kind of PT.

That Nikken looks pretty cool tho, if you are lookin for a 3 wheeler.

 

[harper]

Congratulations on your new and, undoubtedly, soon-to-be-superior new knee.

I had my left knee replaced in 2017 at age 64. I was able to ride after six weeks but, like you, apprehensively. It has been no real problem and as mcatrophy suggested it is probably a good time to think about how you stop that top-heavy thing. I always try to stop left foot down and as balanced as possible. If I tilt slightly right I go ahead and put both feet down. At that point I am already balanced and only switch to left foot down, right foot on brake if I am starting uphill.

I was able to bicycle six miles, walk five miles, and ride the motorcycle all six weeks after surgery. Both the surgeon and the physical therapist told me I was eight months out from riding my big-wheel unicycle. I didn't believe them. If I could ride a bicycle six miles I could certainly ride a unicycle three. Unfortunately, they were right. Lots of rapid torque change doing that.

 

[Redbird]

Thanks for all the suggestions Guys. On April 10, I’ll be four months with the new knee. After heeding to the advice here and spending time with low speed maneuvers in a parking lot, the confidence is coming back.

I did notice that in a half an hour of riding, the right knee stiffens up (I did achieve 125 degrees of bend with the knee), and it really aches. I do switch frequently to my Rivco Highway pegs on my Canyon Cages. I may resort to lowering the pegs, but hate to give up the ground clearance.