FJR Headlight problem possibly dimmer relay

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Yes there is minor corrosion on s7, s8 looks good still have to look at s6. I'm guessing the s4 is going to be a lot of work to get at just like the others. Does anyone recommend covering the spider block with heat shrink.

 
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Because of the snowball (actually avalanche) effect, minor corrosion of a "spider" may be days or perhaps just hours away from a complete meltdown! I had what appeared to be mild tarnishing of the S7. Pulled it out, cleaned it with a mild abrasive (couldn't do anything about the contacts in the socket), and re-installed. It failed within a week or two. I wouldn't cover with heatshrink. Won't help a thing and will just make it harder to examine.

 
Ross is right.

Putting heat shrink will not make the connector air/condensation/moisture-tight, but will reduce evaporation of moisture that does get in there. In other words, it would make corrosion more likely.

 
If you see anything that doesn't 'look like new' your best bet is to cut the block off and connect the wires together either by soldering or crimping.<br />

But the s4 is done a little different as it has the main ground wire which has to be attached. It's this right?

 
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If you see anything that doesn't 'look like new' your best bet is to cut the block off and connect the wires together either by soldering or crimping.<br />

But the s4 is done a little different as it has the main ground wire which has to be attached. It's this right?
Yep, It can take upwards of 52 amps total current draw on that little wire on terminal 3. (depends what's on)

Hence it was a common spider fault.

I've replaced that non working Spider diagram link, don't know what happened there ?

That's where Yamaha plug in their bypass wire back to the battery -Ve.

 
No, it's toast. A total failure just waiting for the

most inopportune time to occur.

Time to cut and solder.

 
Good to find the fault, S6 mentioned several times esp post #2.Also wire in a 2.5 mm bypass wire back to the battery negative terminal while ya there.
Sorry i don't have any experience with electrics. The by pass wire connecting does anyone have a image or link to an image of l. Is it simply just a wire that connects to terminal of the battery. If were are having multiple wires from the spiders will this be cluttered around the battery.

 
Good to find the fault, S6 mentioned several times esp post #2.

Also wire in a 2.5 mm bypass wire back to the battery negative terminal while ya there.
Sorry i don't have any experience with electrics. The by pass wire connecting does anyone have a image or link to an image of l. Is it simply just a wire that connects to terminal of the battery. If were are having multiple wires from the spiders will this be cluttered around the battery.
This is an additional wire from the point where you connect all the existing wires together to battery negative.

 
Exactly what Donald said.

Any old wire and however you fix the S6 up, add the wire and run it to the battery negative.

The larger the wire diameter, the less resistance it has and hence allows more current to bypass.

It shunts the load current off the existing circuit directly back to the battery.

So easy to do, just any old wire is better than nothing.

It would be a same not to do it.

That is how Yamaha addressed the common S4 fault.

A lot of the members add shunts to all 5 of the 12 volt spiders.

Have about 14 amps constant through mine.

PS you don't have to wire each one back to the battery.

I cut off several pigtails and solder them onto the bridging piece, the spider.

Then run a trunk wire, say at least 2.5 mm that loops to every pigtail and to a T join onto the trunk wire.

In my case, the 2.5 mm can easily handle the 14 amps.

4 mm may have been better ???, it was all I had.

Take about 2 hours to do it all up.

 
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Thanks for your all your help. Doing this and checking the other spiders will be my task for when i get some spare time. It's killing me driving to work every day.

 
Thanks for your all your help. Doing this and checking the other spiders will be my task for when i get some spare time. It's killing me driving to work every day.

 
I checked the others in the engine compartment and they look all good no signs of corrosion.

I cut off the s6 spider. Slid the trunk wire in and tied the wires togother with a strand from a left over piece from the trunk wire.

I then soldered it. I had to buy a a 80w soldering iron as the 30w one wasn't up for the job. I then put a shrink wrap over the soldered area and wrapped with good electrical tape.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7rPYODmo-EOMVpfRnZSU29lcmM/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7rPYODmo-EObTdSSm11azROQ3c/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7rPYODmo-EOOWZxQW43MDZTQ0U/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7rPYODmo-EOUkJoN2tKZkRyTU0/view?usp=drivesdk

 
Its running good. Nil issues. Hopefully it stays that way. The fairing seems to hold dirt and moisture next to wires that sit near.

I remember when all this trouble started i told my mechanic that moisture could be the problem. He said that yamaha used wiring that was used in there jet skis so moisture is not usually an issue.

I wonder how the police fjr's go with this issue, i know they use them in nsw police force. Not so much down here in Victoria.

 
The general consensus is that the 'spiders' need some form of protection to prevent corrosion.

There is no consensus on what is best........

My preference is ACF-50 YMMV..........

 
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