FJR in shop

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Got the FJR back on Cinco de Mayo, now there's something to celebrate. New ECU, injectors, atmospheric sensor (I think). Anyway it seems all better to me, other than I can't get the idle under 1400. I'm going back today, (they're letting me test ride an R6), and I'll ask them about the idle. The service manager told me when I picked it up that he had also ordered an O2 sensor and pressure regulator. I'll take it back when they get here. He felt it was still running too rich but that it was in spec. Seat of the pants tells me it is WAY better. Report more when I get more info.

 
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What a journey you have been through. That is my fear with a repair......the waiting for parts on the slow boat from Japan.

I believe I have something going on with my TPS and it will take two weeks to get the part and who knows how long to get it installed :(

Thank the Lord for Y.E.S. :D

 
UPDATE: Got the bike back the first time on May 7th. They let me have it back while waiting on 2 more parts to come in, an O2 sensor and fuel pressure regulator. I took it back on May 19th when the parts came in. I went back several times over that 2 week period to check on the bike's status. Alas, they've been selling new units like hotcakes which were being prepped ahead of the FJR. I got a call from the Service Manager on May 31st, in the evening that they'd buttoned it back up after installing the new parts the idle still didn't want to adjust below 1400 rpms, just like when I'd picked it up on the 7th. He said they wanted to keep it one more day and check for carbon buildup on the throttle bodies.

Pics of throttle bodies plus a pic of a motor mount bolt just barely hanging on.

Motor Mount

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

I had been running nothing but 87 octane (Exxon) and about every 5000 miles or so a little fuel injector cleaner. I'm switching to premium after seeing this excessive carbon buildup. The bike runs like a champ after the throttle bodies were cleaned. Idle back to normal. It was put on the dyno afterwards and I'll post those results as soon as the service manager prints it out.

 
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With the injectors upstream, no amount of cleaner is gonna help those throttle plates. That kind of deposit is due to excessive crankcase vapors, leaking airfilter housing/air filter/air filter hsg-TB boots, or high humidity environment. Some buildup is normal, that looks worse than some 100,000 mile motors I've seen.

 
Actually Rad, they cleaned up great, They used some kind of spray that smelled like airplane glue. I'm waiting on a list of parts that were replaced along with the dyno chart. I'll post both when I get them.

 
Actually Rad, they cleaned up great, They used some kind of spray that smelled like airplane glue. I'm waiting on a list of parts that were replaced along with the dyno chart. I'll post both when I get them.
I don't doubt that they cleaned up nice-we do it occasionally here, 3M makes a great TB cleaner, probably what they used or something like it (even carb cleaner). It's just that we see this with idle complaints on cars with 75 thou or more (usually) on the odo. Some are more prone to the buildup than others-generally those with a lot of idle time, or those used in very humid environs (or some combo) suffer more often.

 
The injectors were replaced too Rad. I'm in a very humid environment here on the gulf coast.
That could very well explain the problem then, and serve as a heads up to others like you. Make the humidity salty and you have a recipe for real problems with corrosion etc. I, were I you, would make the clean up a regular maintainance item, say on a yearly basis. You may find the fast idle ports are also starting to clog/corrode, and might bear looking at next time the bike is down for any period of time. Some Ford MAF sensors we've had (Crown Vic Squads) got to the point of a 10,000 mile replacement period due to high idle times in winter conditions, very humid and salty conditions literally turned the element and it's housing into dust.......... :eek:

 
Interesting stuff. Thanks for providing the info/piccies, and thanks Rad for the commentary. That engine mounting bolt was scary.

BTW, 87 octane gas didn't have anything to do with that.

 
Just out of curiousity...do you know what the final cost WOULD HAVE been if you didn't have the Y.E.S.??

Great Question Drew. Not sure of the labor but I know the parts cost was 850.00 before they ordered the o2 sensor and fuel pressure regulator. I would think a total of 1500.00 to 2000.00 would be in the ballpark. I'll have a parts list soon, maybe the prices will be on there.

 
Throwin parts at a problem can indeed be pricey. Just think what might have happened had they not looked at the TB's.

5JW-11411-00-00

Description: CRANKSHAFT

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $372.86

5JW-11631-00-00

Description: PISTON (STD)

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $59.09

5JW-11650-01-00

Description: CONNECTING ROD ASSY

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $93.66

5JW-11102-10-00

Description: CYLINDER HEAD ASSY

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $806.09

5JW-15100-01-00

Description: BIG THING THE MOTOR STUFF IS IN

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $1,575.60

5VS-W2533-00-35

Description: CAST WHEEL, REAR

Source: YAMAHA

Price: $294.06

And so on. :D

 
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Throwin parts at a problem can indeed be pricey. Just think what might have happened had they not looked at the TB's.

Ouch stop posting those Rad. :unsure:

I know for sure that

1. Valves were checked.

2. ECU replaced

3. New injectors (all)

4. New Radiator fluid (removed when valves were checked)

5. o2 Sensor

6. Fuel pressure Regulator

7. New plugs, (they went through 2 sets, plus pulled out the new iridiums I'd just installed).

8. There was another type of atmospheric sensor replaced. (the exact name I can't recall).

I'm sure the list is longer than that but thats what I can think of off the top of my head.
 
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