fjr not safe to rided

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

ride daily commute, been having slight stability issues. leaving work now, bike was clanky as though something was hitting around the front wheel. Had to pull over on beltway, several cars had to eat rubber to avoid me, 18wheeler included. G-samaritan cager stopped to render aid. pulled into exxon, had son bring tools from home. Tightened axle bolt and pinch bolt, neither was loose. Got bike off center stand to test, clanking worse and then "NO FRONT BRAKES" WTH... tried testing, clanking worse, brakes faiilure intermittent. Brakes are tight on forks, pads in place. it's as though they have to pump up to work. definitely not gonna ride. Any ideas on what is happening. getting uhaul to take to home or yamaha. any ideas?

 

[Geezer]

Brake pad worn or broken

Loose or damaged rotor

Low brake fluid

Loose brake line

Leak in one of the lines or connectors

Bad master cylinder or caliper

Problem with the ABS pump

 

[Queensland Ken]

Hi,

Something similar once.

The brake rotor is "loose" on the attachment point, the "rivets" that allow the rotors to float.

I've only ever noticed it at very slow speed and hit the brakes, "clunk"

Or apply the front brakes while compressing the forks.

If it happens over bumps, eg speed bumps, pot holes, it may be the steering head bearings.

 

[user 213]

If you have a fork brace, check the Tee junction of the brake lines, under the nose. In some cases, some braces will hit and damage the jct., causing a leak and loss of braking. Doesn't explain the clank like loose rotors would.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Thanks guys for the reply.....

Here's the latest run down, see if you can SOLVE THIS RIDDLE

Loaded bike into U-haul. Drove slow, as didn't tell son to bring tie downs...everything went okay.

Took Geezer's first response advise and went to the Yamaha Dee to buy some front pads...$79 bucks for 2pair...

.

The clanking was coming from the axle area.

1. Removed pads...................NO JOY>>NO JOY....Current pads have 80% on right and 65% on left....

The popping noise happened during a full rotation of the front wheel. I could duplicate it just by rotating the wheel.

1A. Removed fender, noticed the rear bolt on right side had cracked and small plastic pieces had broken off.

2. Well, strung bike on the overhead lift and started removing the calipers......NO JOY....clanking still on rotations.

3. Removed ABC cable and tied calipers out of the way....Clanking definitely coming from axle.

4. Tensioned bolt loosened and bike lowered to remove axle.

5. Expecting something to fall out and nothing.

Set axle in hands, with tire on, had son spin tire...nothing...very smooth.

Didn't see any bearings in there, so suppose there aren't any.

Well greased from where I greased it from putting on the new tire last month.

.

.Stumped......Put a level on the axle...fine. Put a level on bottom of forks...fine...Checked forks from top and everything is even.

[SIZE=12pt]Confessions: I don't have the 19mm hex to tighten the axle bolt, so I use the pipe wrench and socket head to tighten axle bolt.[/SIZE]

.

Is it possible that I overtightened the axle bolt and then as I rode it the bolt got too tight and started grinding and popping?

 

[Patriot]

a bud with his '08 overtightened and damaged his wheel bearings causing a bad vibration when using the brakes.

pads fine, rotors fine...replaced the wheel bearings and vibration went away...he admits he didn't use a torque wrench at the time and obviously overtightened

 

[Geezer]

then "NO FRONT BRAKES" WTH... tried testing, clanking worse, brakes faiilure intermittent. Brakes are tight on forks, pads in place. it's as though they have to pump up to work.

This is what lead me to think it was related to the brakes. You sure the rotors are OK? Don't go buying parts until you have diagnosed the problem.

There are bearings in the wheel. one set on each side. They are sealed bearings and hidden behind the rubber seals that you see on each side of the wheel when you take the spacers off. I haven't had mine out and from what I've read on this forum I don't think it's easy.

I suggest that now that you've had the wheel off and you know there are no foreign objects in the way, put the wheel back on the bike and torque the axle, leave the brakes and fender off, and see if the noise returns.

 

[escapefjrtist]

The stack up for the front bearing inner races are controlled by spacers. Unless the axle was grossly overtightened to the point of breaking stuff, I doubt that is the problem. To check the bearings, either spin the rim / tire on the axle or stick your finger inside the inner race and spin the bearing. It should be smooth w/o any rough spots. The description sounds more like loose rotor rivets which allow excess movement, pushing the pistons back into the caliper as the wheel turns...

Good Luck!

--G

 

[dcarver]

hmmmm...

Confessions: I don't have the 19mm hex to tighten the axle bolt, so I use the pipe wrench and socket head to tighten axle bolt.

Really? A freakin' pipe wrench? I think some how the clue is in this statement... (no judgement made, BTW)

I think I recall reading a post that there are 3 bearings? 2 outside, one middle? Not sure.. just musing...

Good luck, keep us posted..

 

[FJRBluesman]

This is a great "what done it" mystery.

Is it possible that from the over torque that you damaged the internal area where the bearings seat in the wheel? Maybe under load, or torque, it's tweaked and makes the noise. When off the bike it seems fine. Just sayin'. :blink:

BTW - How do the spacers look? How about your ABS dealy on the front wheel?

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Okay, gonna retry spinning the wheel on the axle ....Everything inside the wheel looked good.

Will re-assemble and try a test roll to see if there is any resistance.

Thanks guys, here goes.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Well, we did the spin test on the axle, smooth sound.

Decided to clean the spacers and axle and apply fresh grease before re-assembly.

.

Took cloth to clean inside the wheel where the bearings are-just to make sure no grit got inside., and felt a little slit on the edge. HHHMMMMMMM>

..

..

..[SIZE=18pt]Eureka[/SIZE]........When clean, I could actually see the bearing had split in two places. Although it spun around, it was definitely split.

.

After removing all the grease, it was clear that this was the issue. It had sounded like something broken and clunking around....Yep! This is it.

.

Perhaps, from being over torqued I am sure... Started with a small fracture probably, then got progressively worse.

.

Well, thanks guys...I am off to order the bearings now....darn...no riding for a few days....

Oh well, forecast is for rain anyways.

.

.

Gonna order that 19mm hex too...no one sells them locally.

 

[Bounce]

gonna also torque to spec?

 

[radman]

 

[NSrider]

Well, we did the spin test on the axle, smooth sound.Decided to clean the spacers and axle and apply fresh grease before re-assembly.

.

Took cloth to clean inside the wheel where the bearings are-just to make sure no grit got inside., and felt a little slit on the edge. HHHMMMMMMM>

..

..

..[SIZE=18pt]Eureka[/SIZE]........When clean, I could actually see the bearing had split in two places. Although it spun around, it was definitely split.

.

After removing all the grease, it was clear that this was the issue. It had sounded like something broken and clunking around....Yep! This is it.

.

Perhaps, from being over torqued I am sure... Started with a small fracture probably, then got progressively worse.

.

Well, thanks guys...I am off to order the bearings now....darn...no riding for a few days....

Oh well, forecast is for rain anyways.

.

.

Gonna order that 19mm hex too...no one sells them locally.

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

 

[wheatonFJR]

Sounds like the troubleshooting loop has not reached closure...

 

[mr.paul]

Just a thought, doesn't the sparkplug "socket" that comes in the original tool kit fit into the hex recess of the axel? Is there really a need for a pipe wrench? Though I would like to have yet another tool (big hex wrench) I have yet to fail to replace my wheel without even resorting to the plug socket. I usually can accomplish it just using the fasteners there. Radman might take me to task on how I do this, and he would be right! BTW, how ya doin Rad?

mr.paul from Minnesota

 

[Geezer]

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

I'm just guessing, but if the bearing was split, under load the wheel would tilt and cause the rotors to sit at an angle relative to the calipers. That would push the caliper pistons back a lot further than normal and require extra pumping to get them back tight on the rotors.

 

[dcarver]

Good to hear Remington is on track for a fix!