fjr not safe to rided

[Fred W]

Interesting... So was it the outside race or the inside race that split?

I'm not sure that over-torquing could split either one, but the axle (should) only exert force on the inner races through the spacer stack.

 

[Patriot]

this works great for me...back side of a spark plug socket

https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=3

 

[FJRBluesman]

This is a great "what done it" mystery.
Is it possible that from the over torque that you damaged the internal area where the bearings seat in the wheel? Maybe under load, or torque, it's tweaked and makes the noise. When off the bike it seems fine. Just sayin'. :blink:

BTW - How do the spacers look? How about your ABS dealy on the front wheel?

..[SIZE=18pt]Eureka[/SIZE]........When clean, I could actually see the bearing had split in two places. Although it spun around, it was definitely split..

After removing all the grease, it was clear that this was the issue. It had sounded like something broken and clunking around....Yep! This is it.

OK. So I think I came real close to getting this one, do I win a prise?

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

I'm just guessing, but if the bearing was split, under load the wheel would tilt and cause the rotors to sit at an angle relative to the calipers. That would push the caliper pistons back a lot further than normal and require extra pumping to get them back tight on the rotors.

I concur, this sounds pretty logical.


Glad you have figured this out. I still would check the wheel for possible damage. I would have to agree with Fred W on why this happened, I've never heard of an inner race failing like that.

 

[McRide]

This is a great "what done it" mystery.
Is it possible that from the over torque that you damaged the internal area where the bearings seat in the wheel? Maybe under load, or torque, it's tweaked and makes the noise. When off the bike it seems fine. Just sayin'. :blink:

BTW - How do the spacers look? How about your ABS dealy on the front wheel?

..[SIZE=18pt]Eureka[/SIZE]........When clean, I could actually see the bearing had split in two places. Although it spun around, it was definitely split..

After removing all the grease, it was clear that this was the issue. It had sounded like something broken and clunking around....Yep! This is it.

OK. So I think I came real close to getting this one, do I win a prise?

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

I'm just guessing, but if the bearing was split, under load the wheel would tilt and cause the rotors to sit at an angle relative to the calipers. That would push the caliper pistons back a lot further than normal and require extra pumping to get them back tight on the rotors.

I concur, this sounds pretty logical.


Glad you have figured this out. I still would check the wheel for possible damage. I would have to agree with Fred W on why this happened, I've never heard of an inner race failing like that.

Probably 'cause it was torqued to like 500 lbs.... snap, crackle........ pop

 

[FJRBluesman]

This is a great "what done it" mystery.
Is it possible that from the over torque that you damaged the internal area where the bearings seat in the wheel? Maybe under load, or torque, it's tweaked and makes the noise. When off the bike it seems fine. Just sayin'. :blink:

BTW - How do the spacers look? How about your ABS dealy on the front wheel?

..[SIZE=18pt]Eureka[/SIZE]........When clean, I could actually see the bearing had split in two places. Although it spun around, it was definitely split.After removing all the grease, it was clear that this was the issue. It had sounded like something broken and clunking around....Yep! This is it.

OK. So I think I came real close to getting this one, do I win a prise?

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

I'm just guessing, but if the bearing was split, under load the wheel would tilt and cause the rotors to sit at an angle relative to the calipers. That would push the caliper pistons back a lot further than normal and require extra pumping to get them back tight on the rotors.

I concur, this sounds pretty logical.
Glad you have figured this out. I still would check the wheel for possible damage. I would have to agree with Fred W on why this happened, I've never heard of an inner race failing like that.

Probably 'cause it was torqued to like 500 lbs.... snap, crackle........ pop

Many of the torque specs to me seem too tight. I get scared going to nominal torque on the front and rear axels and other areas. :dribble: I usually go on the lower side of the torque for like the rear axel. Is 5-10ft lbs less really goning to make a diff at 90ft lbs? For crying out loud, the front axel is at 52Ft Lbs and it also has a pinch bolt! Does it also need a cotter pin? They are going nowhere folks.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Just curious, but how would the broken bearing cause you to have no brakes as you stated in your original post?

I'm just guessing, but if the bearing was split, under load the wheel would tilt and cause the rotors to sit at an angle relative to the calipers. That would push the caliper pistons back a lot further than normal and require extra pumping to get them back tight on the rotors.

I think you are right on with this diagnosis. Proof..when I initially attempted to fix with tools at Exxon, I loosened the pinch bolt and tightened the Axle bolt tighter. (HINDSIGHT) This applied more pressure to the bearing and caused it to clank/give way during each tire full rotation. I further believe that this initial tightening caused a second crack in the bearing wall, thus making the rotor shift and press awkwardly

against the caliper, causing there to be 2 false pumps before the breaks would engage. Carefully inspected every part; calipers, mCyl and brake pads, abs, rotor's and rotor's tightening...all good.

Interesting... So was it the outside race or the inside race that split?
I'm not sure that over-torquing could split either one, but the axle (should) only exert force on the inner races through the spacer stack.

It is the inner races that is cracked. The sound was like crunching heavy glass when the tire rotated over the crack of the inner races.

I think the over torquing probably started the downward spiral of problems. I put 600 miles on it a week later, but here are some (HINDSIGHT) symptoms that occurred:

1. When riding at coast, I could not release the handlebars at speeds between 10-35mph. It would begin the death wobble, not so dramatic, but it was shaky.

2. Since it was a new tire, I attributed that symptom to the new tire, getting broken in. At highway speeds, no issues.

3. I noticed some instability/vibration during the same speeds, I thought perhaps it was the tire not being properly balanced.

4. It progressively got worse after I went through a parking lot that had multiple speed bumps that I kinda went over rather quickly but safely, just the day before breakdown.

Okay, on the socket wrench...I searched all over to find a 19mm hex, but to no avail.

I stumbled upon someone's tech page that mentioned the spark plug socket wrench head being a perfect fit...it is..(HINDSIGHT) No substitute for the right tool.

 

[jacko]

Same thing happened to my 06 , horrible noise , stopped had a look couldn't see or feel anything , got back on and rode very slowly to Yam shop , ABS warning light came on , at the dealer with the bike on centre stand we could not hear or feel anything when we spun the wheel , no sideways movement either

but yep it was the wheel bearings

 

[Zorlac]

FWIW, 3/4" hex bar stock fits the 19mm axle perfectly.

 

[Fred W]

FWIW, 3/4" hex bar stock fits the 19mm axle perfectly.

[master of the obvious mode]

And if one were to slip a piece of that into a 19mm (or 3/4") socket, they could use a torque wrench on the thing. :thumbsup:

[/master of the obvious mode]

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Well, all is well with the wrench..no more chances. Ordered it online from Toolopia?? and it fits perfect, solid made and only $6.99..I have seen prices upwards of $30.00 bucks for this hex socket.

 

[Scoobyvroom]

Just putting this out there, put on some fresh rubbers this week, and guy mouting them noticed a click in the bearing. Picked it up and held onto the bearing as he spun the wheel. You could feel that one bearing was very bad. This is on an 08 with 26K... No wheelies either if you thinking that... :assassin: