FJR sitting for 2 years, resurection form the dead

[cali_rider]

In 2 weeks I go pick up a new to me, 2007 FJR1300A, with 17k miles. The bike has been sitting for 2 years so it will needs some love. Any tipso n reviving it? I know the tires will need to be replaced but the seller is providing new tires for me to put on. I have a new battery to put in it when I go get it, so it should start right up and validate it runs. I figured when I get it home I would do the following:

-check oil level and add if low

-drain gas, fill with fresh gas

-add some seafoam

-run the gas/seafom through

-change the oil

-bleed the brakes

-depending on on how well it runs, perform a throttle body synch.

Anything else I should be doing? Is there a fuel filter I should be replacing? Is there a bearing at the shaft drive I should be re-greasing? Fork oil?

 

[SacramentoMike]

In 2 weeks I go pick up a new to me, 2007 FJR1300A, with 17k miles. The bike has been sitting for 2 years so it will needs some love. Any tipso n reviving it? I know the tires will need to be replaced but the seller is providing new tires for me to put on. I have a new battery to put in it when I go get it, so it should start right up and validate it runs. I figured when I get it home I would do the following:

-check oil level and add if low

-drain gas, fill with fresh gas

-add some seafoam

-run the gas/seafom through

-change the oil

-bleed the brakes

-depending on on how well it runs, perform a throttle body synch.

Anything else I should be doing? Is there a fuel filter I should be replacing? Is there a bearing at the shaft drive I should be re-greasing? Fork oil?

You should get to know Zac at Roseville Yamaha. Your new best friend.

 

[cali_rider]

In 2 weeks I go pick up a new to me, 2007 FJR1300A, with 17k miles. The bike has been sitting for 2 years so it will needs some love. Any tipso n reviving it? I know the tires will need to be replaced but the seller is providing new tires for me to put on. I have a new battery to put in it when I go get it, so it should start right up and validate it runs. I figured when I get it home I would do the following:

-check oil level and add if low

-drain gas, fill with fresh gas

-add some seafoam

-run the gas/seafom through

-change the oil

-bleed the brakes

-depending on on how well it runs, perform a throttle body synch.

Anything else I should be doing? Is there a fuel filter I should be replacing? Is there a bearing at the shaft drive I should be re-greasing? Fork oil?

You should get to know Zac at Roseville Yamaha. Your new best friend.

I do my own work. I have a pneumatic motorcycle lift in my garage. The tire swap I do my self as well. I have a friend that has a tire changing station and a digital snap on tire balancer. Although I have been looking at the FJR in Roseville and they told me that Zac in the service department is the FJR guru.

Ap picture of my mancave:

 

[SLK50]

Since you're picking it up anyway, start treating it like it's your bike.

Change the oil, filter and gas before you start it.

When you get it home, change all remaining fluids. Assume no maintenance

has been performed since the bike was new.

Change the plugs before you perform a TBS.

Mechanically, there isn't much you can wear out in 17K miles, other than tires,

that you couldn't spot upon visual inspection.

If one doesn't come with the bike, order a Factory Service Manual, now.

Lastly, before you start riding it, other than test rides, check every nut,

bolt and fastener to make sure they're properly torqued. ( See FSM )

Good luck with it, have fun and welcome to the fold.

 

[RaYzerman19]

All good advice, and may I also suggest going over all the ground spiders, cleaning them up as necessary and dielectric grease. Include the two turn signal connectors as they are open to water and corrode.

I would assume no maintenance is done as well, and go over everything, definitely change all fluids, new fuel before you start it (at least siphon out what you can and half fill with fresh... Honda Moly Paste for the rear drive splines when you change the tires. Make sure the wheel bearings are free and smooth (I suspect they are with that low mileage). Air filter?

 

[wfooshee]

+1 on changing fluids before starting. Why start a motor when you're not sure what's in the crankcase, be it oil, water, or gasoline?

When you say sitting for two years, is that outside, or in a garage or shed? Electrical stuff might not be that big a deal indoors, but if outside, you've got a lot to look at electrically.

Brakes may be an issue as well. Condition of the brake fluid, condition of the seals, since they haven't moved in all that time it's possible the brakes may not release correctly once applied.

 

[worldbound4now]

Also take it in to your preferred Yammy shop to be sure no recall work exists that has not been completed.

 

[madmike2]

:clapping: Congratulations on the purchase. :clapping:

Anything else I should be doing? Is there a fuel filter I should be replacing? Is there a bearing at the shaft drive I should be re-greasing? Fork oil?

Fuel filter is part of the pump assembly and not changeable.

I'd check the air filter, as suggested.

Change the coolant.

No bearing at the shaft drive but splines on both ends.

Some helpful websites are listed at the bottom of this linked thread.

 

[road runner]

All good advice.

Ask if the fuel was stabilized when it was put up for storage.

Even if it was, empty fuel tank then put in fresh gas with a quality fuel system cleaner.

Change oil & filter

Definitely check or change the air filter, because mice love making nests in there.

Speaking of mice. They also like living under the seat, under the tank, in the side fairings. Check what you can to make sure there's no chewed up wires, or hoses.

 

[DJB]

First I am jealous of your man cave. Next get it home as the other have said, remove every fairing and piece of plastic you can find. remove the gas tank to drain it. Pull the tires check the wheel bearings. Check the steering head bearings and replace with tapered ones. Check all the frame bolts like for the saddle bags. Check locks on saddle bags. It should take you a good day to get a part to work and get back on the road. If you are going to make any changes and add any farkles do it now. Have fun write if you need help.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Only response I don't see above is about fork oil. Yes, go ahead and change the fork oil.

I would definitely clean, re-grease and re-torque the steering head bearings.

As mentioned above, check for any outstanding recalls with your local Yami dealer. Good chance it needs an ECU recall performed.

 

[cali_rider]

Thanks guys, all sounds like good advice. I will check on the ECU recall thing. I do have some questions, some of these will probably be explained with the Yamaha repair manual but I will ask anyway.

- Do I need to pull the forks off to replace the fork oil or do these forks allow me to drain from the bottom and refill at top?

- Do I need to pull the final drive off to re-greese both splines mentioned?

- I am completely dumb on the ground spider issue....not even sure what the heck the ground spider is??? Anyone care to elaborate on what they are, the problems these can be and the proper maintenace of them? It seems to keep coming up on the historical problem list of the gen 2 FJR.

- Why would the head bearings need to be replaced at 17k miles?

- Is there anythign special on bleeding these brakes with ABS? I know BMW servo brakes have a unique process but partly because of the servo system.

The bike is already heavily farkled and has a PC-III already on it. I will add my GPS and XM antenna when I have the panels off.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Thanks guys, all sounds like good advice. I will check on the ECU recall thing. I do have some questions, some of these will probably be explained with the Yamaha repair manual but I will ask anyway.

- Do I need to pull the forks off to replace the fork oil or do these forks allow me to drain from the bottom and refill at top?

- Do I need to pull the final drive off to re-greese both splines mentioned?

- I am completely dumb on the ground spider issue....not even sure what the heck the ground spider is??? Anyone care to elaborate on what they are, the problems these can be and the proper maintenace of them? It seems to keep coming up on the historical problem list of the gen 2 FJR.

- Why would the head bearings need to be replaced at 17k miles?

- Is there anythign special on bleeding these brakes with ABS? I know BMW servo brakes have a unique process but partly because of the servo system.

The bike is already heavily farkled and has a PC-III already on it. I will add my GPS and XM antenna when I have the panels off.

I recommend pulling the forks to do a proper clean/flush & refill. But it can be done without pulling the forks. There is however, no drain provided.

Pull the left footpeg bracket and shifter linkage, along with the rear wheel and final drive housings for access to the splines. Wash everything up and Moly grease the splines. It's not nearly as bad a job as you may think. Just takes time.

The steering head bearings don't need replacing, but they should be cleaned, re-greased and re-torqued to spec. Yamaha uses that same crappy grease as all other Japanese manufacturers. Get some good Moly grease in there.

Nothing special about bleeding the brakes. Start with clean fluid in the reservoir and vacuum from the bleeders while keeping the reservoirs full. When you see clear, clean fluid in the cup... you are good to go.

Try this Google search...

ground spider site:fjrforum.com

That should keep you busy reading for a few days.

 

[MEM]

Good chance it needs an ECU recall performed.

AND ignition switch

 

[UHOH]

Assuming it has been garaged in the not too cold California climate,

this is how I would modify your list (added and re-ordered).

I figured when I get it home I would do the following:

-check oil level and add if low

-drain gas, fill with fresh gas

-add some seafoam

-start and run it to full operating temp

-change the oil

-run the tank of gas/seafom through

-bleed the brakes

-depending on on how well it runs, perform a throttle body synch.

Then I'd ride it a bit, deciding about the rest on your own schedule ...

congrats on purchase

 

[Peter Murray]

I would check the rear suspenion shock linkage and grease the bearing's.. They come near dry from the factoty.

Enjoy !

 

[RaYzerman19]

FJR 1300A, right? When bleeding the rear brake, you also have to bleed the right front caliper as it is a linked brake system. It's in the service manual, sec. 3-22.

 

[RadioHowie]

Sitting for 2 years???

Might want to make SURE you don't have any reddish-colored particulates in the gas.

The FJR tank is mild steel with NO protective coating on the interior.

Here's what 1 year of sitting did to my FJR's tank.....CLICKY

That's iron oxide, aka "rust", that nearly wrecked my entire fuel system, and DID destroy the fuel pump.

 

[bikerkash]

Unless your planning to do a track day real soon there really isn't much that needs to be done. If the tires appear to be good I would not change two year tires, they will do fine for regular street riding. I recently purchased a brand new 3 year old AE and one of issues I had was over the 3 years that it sat in the crate the clutch plates had dried out and they could not be made to work right until thet were removed and left to soak in oil for a day. After that everything worked just fine after that. Unless it's time, by mileage, for fluid changes I do not believe there is any need to do that. Check the things out that you normally would and go out and ride and enjoy a great bike.