FJR1300 Engine replacement

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looking to swap a gen2 engine very soon.

Any advice before I blindly dive in?

What say you RadioHowie, 03SilverBullet, OcFJR?
ok even if gen1

check engines on ebay...find one thats affordable, proven good (seller provided video) , pay and haave shipped to more than competent shop

push bike onto trailer, tie down, and deliver to shop

leave wihout motorcycle

wait 4 weeks

return to test ride, provide credit card, then transport motorcycle home

the end

:yahoo:

 
Hi Don,

seems all I can offer is moral support, you have it all. I am sure that with all the combined knowledge around here you will get this job done without a hitch. If not many will know the way forward.

Best regards

Surly

:ph34r:
We were counting on you to bring the Vegemite to the party. I'm not flying out to La-La Land if there is not going to be any Vegemite!!

 
Don I have one of these that will help.

file-23.jpg


R
THAT ^^^^^^^ is exactly what I'm talking about!

You may need to remove the TBs, but IIRC, it's not necessary to pull the motor.
Eric you may not be recalling correctly. The top motor mounts are directly underneath the TBs....they gotta go.

ok even if gen1
Not OK for a Gen I engine. The two Gens don't mix and match. My understanding is the Vehicle Speed Sensor is different between the two which precludes them from being inter-changeable.
Skootie, a believe Mikey was referring to the process, not the viability of replacing a Gen 2 with a Gen 1. Reading comprehension is SO important on these forums.

 
Pretty much the same advice here. Pull the fork tubes and get them out of the way first. The radiator is a pita, along with the plastic piece behind it. Pay attention to how things are routed thru/around that plastic piece and how it comes out/goes in. You'll need to feed all that wiring and hoses around it when you put things back together.

I used a chain hoist and lifted the frame off the motor. Way easier and better control. If you don't have one, look into renting one. Usually cheap. You don't need a big one. I think the one I used was only rated for 250 lbs and it did fine.

Put the bike on the center stand and pull the rear wheel, drive shaft/diff unit and u-joint. Pull the seat, tank and hook up the frame to the hoist. Pick it up a bit and pull the front wheel and fork tubes. Then go after the cooling system and get that all out of the way.

Now go about unplugging things and removing the airbox, etc. until you can get to all the motor mounts. You may need to remove the TBs, but IIRC, it's not necessary to pull the motor.

FWIW, this is a really good time to do that center stand/swingarm maintenance, before you put the new engine in. :blink:

As SkooterG will tell you, it's also the perfect time to pull the starter, but you probably don't need to go there with the replacement engine.

Good luck, right **** down and take pictures. You'll need them later.

And pay attention to the torque sequence of the motor mounts when you're tightening down the replacement motor. It makes a big difference in vibes.
Excellent advice, thanks Eric! Especially the center stand maintenance. Only 10k ago, Dr. Hal (KaitsDad)did a raft of work including relay, swingarm, steering head, etc. maintenance. New brake pads, fresh GPS supsension.. Another factor in deciding to keep KrZy8 on the road with a heart transplant.
The center stand tho? :huh:

Hi Don,

seems all I can offer is moral support, you have it all. I am sure that with all the combined knowledge around here you will get this job done without a hitch. If not many will know the way forward.

Best regards

Surly

:ph34r:
You RAWK, Surly! Thanks for the moral support, and have a pint on me, k'? ;)

Don does your WiFI reach out to the worksop????? i feel a Ustream weekend coming on.....

R
Yes, it's only 30 feet away! Only a 512k connection tho, so if we do broadcast it would need be at a lower reso to keep the frames complete.

I'm not flying out to La-La Land if there is not going to be any Vegemite!!
Come on out YF, we have an airport in San Luis Obispo...

DC, sorry to hear about your troubles, but am glad you could find a nice low-mileage engine, will be rooting for a speedy recovery...
Thanks James! Are you same feller that completed a SS1K in Co a few years back? The Zelenz rain ride SS1k? :)
 
DC, sorry to hear about your troubles, but am glad you could find a nice low-mileage engine, will be rooting for a speedy recovery...
Thanks James! Are you same feller that completed a SS1K in Co a few years back? The Zelenz rain ride SS1k? :)
DC, that right, that was a kick *** ride, and I think led to the birth of the TwistyButt rides since some of the guys who did that ride started the TwistyButt Association ;) .
I *thought* that was you! Yeah, I wimped out on that SS1K, and in hindsight, for all the right reasons. I recall, vividly, your 'look' after returning, though! :lol:
Thanks for your support, it means much!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I *thought* that was you! Yeah, I wimped out on that SS1K, and in hindsight, for all the right reasons. I recall, vividly, your 'look' after returning, though! :lol:

Thanks for your support, it means much!
Which is why Carver is now the president of the Candy *** association. Haha...the Candy *** ***.

Get it??? :lol:

 
Here's what's available for yanking the engine..

Cherry picker. If arm extended length-wise to table, the table is heavy enough to hold my weight 240 without lifting. If needed, I can bolt the table to the cement pad.

1.jpg


I have one of these if needed..

2.jpg


And the neighbor has this nice little A-Frame which just might be the cats meow.

3.jpg


Also have one of these, the hydraulics are very smooth, wouldn't bother me at all to hang the fjr below it..

5119309_1_l.jpg


 
You'll do fine.

Re: Center stand - If you're doing other stuff like the swing arm, IIRC, you need to pull the center stand to access things and the bolts are long, usually requiring exhaust removal. Some folks have swapped the bolts around so they come from the other side so they can be removed w/the exhaust in place. The center stand itself only needs a little lube. The lower shock mount pivots and arms are more work and there are usually some bushings that are toast there in the pivots.

 
You'll do fine.

Re: Center stand - If you're doing other stuff like the swing arm, IIRC, you need to pull the center stand to access things and the bolts are long, usually requiring exhaust removal. Some folks have swapped the bolts around so they come from the other side so they can be removed w/the exhaust in place. The center stand itself only needs a little lube. The lower shock mount pivots and arms are more work and there are usually some bushings that are toast there in the pivots.
+1 on what OCfjr said about the Relay Arm, don't leave it too long before servicing... or you might have this to deal with:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=137895&view=findpost&p=860452

 
Thanks guys.

Just 10k ago, Dr. Hal did all the heavy lifting.. swingarm, steering head, relay, ujoint, etc etc etc.

But.. the centerstand? Outside of a once every 2 month quick shot with chain lube, no real service.

 
Thanks guys.

Just 10k ago, Dr. Hal did all the heavy lifting.. swingarm, steering head, relay, ujoint, etc etc etc.

But.. the centerstand? Outside of a once every 2 month quick shot with chain lube, no real service.
You know what you've done and how it feels Don, go with your instincts. :good: I was mainly talking about things that you would have access to and might want to take a closer look at when you're in there, not must do stuff.

 
I swapped my engine in the drive way. I used a floor jack to drop it down, (I don't have a lift). I had the front wheel and fender off at the time and the rear wheel off. I put a jack stand under the rear axle and weighted down the rear of the bike so the frame wouldn't follow the engine when I lowered it. It came out pretty easy.

When the new engine went back in I had the forks off for rebuild. I tried using the motorcycle jack, like some have pictured in this post, but found I couldn't wiggle the new engine to align with the holes in the frame. I went back to the floor jack and had no problem getting the holes to align. You do have to balance the engine on the jack, but I didn't have much trouble doing it. Also I never removed the throttle bodies and the new engine came with it's own so I it went in with them on. The air box does need to get removed to access the top motor mounts. Also getting the throttle cables hooked back in is a *****, but I got them after some effort.

Good luck however you do it.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I swapped my engine in the drive way. I used a floor jack to drop it down, (I don't have a lift). I had the front wheel and fender off at the time and the rear wheel off. I put a jack stand under the rear axle and weighted down the rear of the bike so the frame wouldn't follow the engine when I lowered it. It came out pretty easy.

When the new engine went back in I had the forks off for rebuild. I tried using the motorcycle jack, like some have pictured in this post, but found I couldn't wiggle the new engine to align with the holes in the frame. I went back to the floor jack and had no problem getting the holes to align. You do have to balance the engine on the jack, but I didn't have much trouble doing it. Also I never removed the throttle bodies and the new engine came with it's own so I it went in with them on. The air box does need to get removed to access the top motor mounts. Also getting the throttle cables hooked back in is a *****, but I got them after some effort.

Good luck however you do it.
Good idea to first install throttle bodies then install. Already played the game of installing TB's in a already installed engine...

...and the engine has a new delivery date of this Thursday!

 
Top