Fjr1300

[Br0m0sapien]

Stalling video
Hey everyone,
Has anyone experienced anything like this. I just bought a 2007 fjr with 32,000 miles from a private seller and noticed the engine was a little off, but it seems like it just needed a tune (It was negotiated into the price). At first the startup was rough, it had to crank for 3-4 seconds before it would turn over and eventually wouldnt start at all. I thought it was the battery so i put it on the trickle, refilled the tank and took it on a ride the next day. Today it consistantly started up without issue. Then I noticed the idle wasnt smooth, it is bouncing about 200 rpms periodically, which calms down when it warms up. Now i figured out that when blipping the throttle it will occasionally lose power and stall. It feels like there is a little hesitation when opening it up. I captured it in the attached video. Keep in mind that is me blipping the throttle and is not an idle problem. Im hoping its just bad gas in there because the seller said he hadnt ridden it since last year and there was only a quarter tank full. Does anyone have a theory?

 

[RossKean]

Hopefully your fuel system is clean and injectors aren't clogged. A couple of doses of Yamaha Ring Free might be in order. Use a flashlight to have a good look inside the tank.

Set idle to 1150 or so. Bike didn't sound great in the video but hard to tell. Likely not much wrong with it given the low mileage.

Where are you? Might help to get someone local who is knowledgeable to have a look and listen. Might just need to be ridden...

It's a great bike!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Bad or old fuel will cause a lot of problems with starting and runability. Get a fresh tank and treat with Techron, Ring free or even Seafoam. Follow dosing instructions.

FJRs will hunt a bit on cold and hot idle. Blipping the throttle on a bike with low idle can cause stalling. Echoing RK, check the tank for rust.

~G

 

[Nazgul]

Lift the tank. Get a good light. Look at the top of each throttle body; there is a rubber cap covering the port used to connect a manometer tube. Those caps get old and crack. They were disintegrating on my 2012. And they will leak air. The leak rate will vary with temperature thus causing varying problems with idle, hunting, even stalling. Replace the caps.

 

[torch]

Do the lights flicker at the same time? If so, it could be a sign of a failing ignition switch. It was an issue with the older models and often announced it's intention to fail soon by intermittent issues. Similarly, the Gen 2 models often suffer from intermittent electrical issues due to corroded ground connections. Search for "ground spider" or "spider bite" for more information.

 

[RossKean]

Do the lights flicker at the same time? If so, it could be a sign of a failing ignition switch. It was an issue with the older models and often announced it's intention to fail soon by intermittent issues. Similarly, the Gen 2 models often suffer from intermittent electrical issues due to corroded ground connections. Search for "ground spider" or "spider bite" for more information.

It is a good idea to check whether recalls have been performed. Yamaha can tell you if they have been done based on your VIN.

Both of the issues mentioned above could be covered. The ignition switch was the subject of a recall - replaced by Yamaha. There was also a supplemental grounding harness added in a separate recall for the early Gen II.

A third recall for 2007 dealt with the ECU. There were issues with it not compensating properly for rapid changes in altitude. Likely only an issue if riding in the mountains.

 

[infrared]

Br0m0sapien​

Contact the Yamaha mothership directly with your VIN to check the status of your bike on recalls:
https://www.yamaha-dealers.com/public/web/techpubs/nhtsaPublications.html
1-800-962-7926

 

[RossKean]

Lift the tank. Get a good light. Look at the top of each throttle body; there is a rubber cap covering the port used to connect a manometer tube. Those caps get old and crack. They were disintegrating on my 2012. And they will leak air. The leak rate will vary with temperature thus causing varying problems with idle, hunting, even stalling. Replace the caps.

I also had an issue with cracked rubber caps on the ports used for throttle body synchronization. Replacement made a small improvement with a "loping" idle problem. This photo shows one of the four small rubber caps with a crack. Not sure if this was my root problem. While replacing the caps made some difference, the uneven idle went away over time - several thousand miles. Bought the bike used and the previous owner had not ridden it a significant distance in over two years. I suspect I had contamination in the fuel injectors and it took time and treatment to fix it. Note: I had no issues with performance, mileage or stalling. 2011 Gen II.

 

[mophead]

Highly recommend Techron.

 

[Br0m0sapien]

Thanks for all the responses, you guys are awesome. I forgot to add that i trailed it home on Saturday which was a 8 hr drive home and it was raining hard the whole time. I did the recall check and all the recalls have been performed. I took it out for a ride yesterday and burned through a full tank of gas. I put a brand new battery in and now it fires up right away. I changed the oil, changed the filter with a pur one, and new gear oil. The oil filter was fused on and i had the put a screwdriver through it just to lever it off. I also checked the tank which looks very clean and added techron fuel system last night. The condition of the bouncing idle is completely gone now but it still seems to hesitate and lose power if just blipping the throttle. Ill burn through this tank and let the fuel cleaner do its thing and change the spark plugs and check on the rubber caps next. This is my first fjr but it doesnt seem like this hesitation would be on a healthy engine. After this weekend and the rest of the service is done ill post another video. Thanks again this forum is awesome.

 

[C&C]

Remember that when blipping the throttle, it will struggle (by design) until it comes off high speed warmup.