FJRF001: New Ticking Sound files

[StephenFJR1300]

Hate to bring up an old post..I have been listening to tick sound bites before I bought mine to make sure I didn't get one. I hear a loud whine whistle in all the audio bits. Is that what I am listening for? My bike whines when I first start it up, but after a few seconds, minute on a really cold day, the whine goes away and it sounds like a normal engine.

Am I listening for the wrong thing?

 

[FJRay]

Hate to bring up an old post..I have been listening to tick sound bites before I bought mine to make sure I didn't get one. I hear a loud whine whistle in all the audio bits. Is that what I am listening for? My bike whines when I first start it up, but after a few seconds, minute on a really cold day, the whine goes away and it sounds like a normal engine.

Am I listening for the wrong thing?

Yes.

 

[Fred W]

Hate to bring up an old post..I have been listening to tick sound bites before I bought mine to make sure I didn't get one. I hear a loud whine whistle in all the audio bits. Is that what I am listening for? My bike whines when I first start it up, but after a few seconds, minute on a really cold day, the whine goes away and it sounds like a normal engine.

Am I listening for the wrong thing?

It's not the whining sound that you are listening for. It's the clattering sound like a box full of silverware being shaken.

 

[SkooterG]

The one "true test" that will confirm whether or not you you have a "Ticker" is to pull off the exhaust header and look for oil residue in the exhaust port(s). The root cause of a ticker is the valve guides wear, get sloppy, and then the seals leak oil excessively.

How the heck does that oil not get burned up? I mean we are talking temperatures that can burn up a metal valve if all is not right. How does oil get through those temps in the exhaust side of things without getting burned up?

 

[dcarver]

The one "true test" that will confirm whether or not you you have a "Ticker" is to pull off the exhaust header and look for oil residue in the exhaust port(s). The root cause of a ticker is the valve guides wear, get sloppy, and then the seals leak oil excessively.

How the heck does that oil not get burned up? I mean we are talking temperatures that can burn up a metal valve if all is not right. How does oil get through those temps in the exhaust side of things without getting burned up?

It's synthetic oil!

 

[GaryM]

I listened to mine but since I am half deaf it is hard for me to tell if anything is making noise.

I did hear some ticking but it was quite faint. It seems in the recording here the ticking is louder than the engine "whirring". With mine I just about have put my ear in the faring to hear it.

So, is there a recording of a non-ticking engine to compare to? Something so we can hear what it should sound like.

 

[THE919]

Does this sound like ticking/clicking or skipping?Listen here....

 

[Queensland Ken]

It sounds more like the CCT ???

 

[RadioHowie]

Sure sounds like a slappin' cam chain to me. Do you feel a vibration in the grips that rises and falls with the rpm?

How many miles on your '06?

 

[THE919]

Bike has 35K, but I only had it for the last 300 miles. Since I don't have a good feel for a bike yet, I can't tell if vibrations increase or not, I feel that there is slight increase but nothing out of control. The only reason I'm questioning CCT is because the noise is more pronounced on the left side, which is opposite of the CCT.

I ordered CCT parts last night and will update later this week.

 

[RadioHowie]

Just be sure to read the many "CCT Changed" threads scattered across the forum, so you don't screw up the cam timing!!!

 

[wheatonFJR]

I agree that it seems more pronounced on the left side...then as he revs it up to a certain rpm I hear what sounds like a slappin sound. Neither of the sounds seems real prominent. If it was just a little ticking, I would ride it and not think anything of it.

However, I think it is also a possibility that yes, the cam chain tensioner will take care of the slapping sound that was heard as you revv'd it up.

 

[THE919]

Ok, here is an update to previous post #46 and #49.

The new CCT is installed. Here is the sound bite after installation, listen HERE. I don’t believe the noise is completely gone, but it’s much quieter now.

If you all agree that some of the noise is still there, what’s next? New cam chain, guides, and sprockets?

As a side project I did some investigation:

I measured the old CCT and when it’s fully extracted the plunger part is 1-1/8” long. It takes 4.5 turns to fully retract the plunger.

I should have measured the new one before installation, but it’s too late now. I’ll go on the assumption that it’s the same (1-1/8” long, and takes 4.5 turns).

After the new CCT was installed on the bike it took me 2 full turns to retract it. Which tells me it’s extended 44% or roughly half way.

Does anyone know if there is enough space inside the engine for the plunger to fully extend or is this about as far as it will go? I tried to force it manually CCW, but no luck, it will turn ¼ to ½ turn and then it will return to its original position. It’s returning to its original position thru a clockwise motion. I can see thru a hole in the frame that after forcing the screw CCW, the screw is rotating CW with the bike at idle? How can it do that?

 

[RadioHowie]

I can see thru a hole in the frame that after forcing the screw CCW, the screw is rotating CW with the bike at idle? How can it do that?

It can do that because there is no mechanism in the OEM CCT, other than spring tension, to prevent to plunger from returning from its fully-extended position.

The CCT has reached an equilibrium between spring tension forcing the plunger out, and chain tension forcing it back in.

This "no-anti-reversing" feature of the OEM is why I went with a manually adjusted CCT. Some folks have faith in the newer model CCT with more tension....I didn't.

 

[escapefjrtist]

I measured the old CCT and when it’s fully extracted the plunger part is 1-1/8” long. It takes 4.5 turns to fully retract the plunger.

I should have measured the new one before installation, but it’s too late now. I’ll go on the assumption that it’s the same (1-1/8” long, and takes 4.5 turns).

New tensioner / plunger design is slightly different than the original. For the same travel, plunger would be extended less than the original.

Pic for comparison, new is on the left.

--G

 

[Amarak]

Seeing how this topic was brought back to life, what would be your collective idea on a rattling/slapping noise that I can hear around the 3500-4000 rpm range that is very prominent in sound. I will try to get a sound byte tomorrow, but it does it almost always. The bike sounds pretty smooth until that point, then again above 4100ish. My bike is a 2010 with almost 8K on it. Thanks in advance.

 

[dave]

I agree that it seems more pronounced on the left side...then as he revs it up to a certain rpm I hear what sounds like a slappin sound. Neither of the sounds seems real prominent. If it was just a little ticking, I would ride it and not think anything of it.

However, I think it is also a possibility that yes, the cam chain tensioner will take care of the slapping sound that was heard as you revv'd it up.

How long can one ride a ticker?

 

[Fred W]

Seeing how this topic was brought back to life, what would be your collective idea on a rattling/slapping noise that I can hear around the 3500-4000 rpm range that is very prominent in sound. I will try to get a sound byte tomorrow, but it does it almost always. The bike sounds pretty smooth until that point, then again above 4100ish. My bike is a 2010 with almost 8K on it. Thanks in advance.

Wow. Seems your post slipped through the cracks and never got answered. I hope that you got it answered elsewhere. It sounds more like a floppy cam chain from your description than ticking. Hopefully you've already had it diagnosed and corrected.

How long can one ride a ticker?

Now that is a very good question. Being a chronic wear issue, one could ride for quite a while with the ticking before the guides wear enough to mess up the valve sealing resulting eventually in loss of compression. But there have been some tickers that have been run for quite a while before being fixed. Clearly all 1st gens are far out of warranty now, so the likelihood that Yamaha would contribute anything towards the repair of a newly discovered ticker is pretty slim.

The question might be worthy of a new post and a poll to get the actual mileages people successfully ran tickers before repair captured.

 

[415mc]

I'd be very interested in seeing how many "ticking" miles people have on there bikes too. My '05 with 43k miles is ticking pretty good from about 2-3k rpm. I bought it with 40k miles on it and it has ticked the whole time. I plan on riding it until it drops a valve or something. Then I'll just buy a used motor and have it installed. I figure a used engine will cost as much as a new head/valve job.

 

[aharper]

I recently bought my bike from a Yamaha dealer in Louisville. When they listened to the bike they said the sound was normal. I talked to the original owner who rode the bike from around 2k miles to 63k miles. He said the sound has been about the same the whole time. Along the way it has had two valve adjustments.

I took the bike over to the Yamaha dealer in Indianapolis on Sat. and they are calling Yamaha today to see if they will cover anything. If Yamaha won't cover anything then I'm going to just live with it. If the old owner had the problem for around 60k miles without any other known side affect then we'll see what we can get out of it. Everything feels strong and I have no black marks on my exhaust.