FJRF008: Cam Chain Tensioner Survey

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Buy a USED CCT????? I've got one I'll sell ya for $1.
Please pardon my lack of clarity--- looking to buy a used BIKE and curious on the cost of replacing a NEW CCT if the need be.

Kind of a crazy question since I tend to not keep the same bike very long.

 
Buy a USED CCT????? I've got one I'll sell ya for $1.
Please pardon my lack of clarity--- looking to buy a used BIKE and curious on the cost of replacing a NEW CCT if the need be...
$80 is a good ballpark figure for the part. The cost of labor will probably vary widely and be related to how much effort you want to put into finding an experienced shop that can do the job well, yet not charge you $140/hr. Of course, if you do it yourself the job will cost roughly $1.50 -- for the celebratory beer when you are done.

 
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Yep, what the two geniuses above me said, but they didn't cover ALL the costs...

~$80 for DIY if you do it now.....about $1500-$2000 if you wait until it's absolutely necessary. :p

 
Not sure if this relates and would appreciate any imput.

2003, tapping at idle since 14k. Nothing done as relate it to ticking conversation re FJR's somewhere.

No shim adjustments since 14k, however checked on service intervals.

Now at 100k...

Does this noise sound like ticking, similar to a sticking/ dirty tapped?

What does this CCT noise sound like?

Changed cam chain and guides at 80k...noise stayed.

Thanks

 
CCT noise is the cam chain slapping the inside of the chain tunnel and guides. It is a hollow metallic sound some liken to the sound of marbles in a tin can. The sound emanates from the right side (when seated) of the engine.

Ticking valve guides is more of a sharp metallic clatter, like a drawer full of silverware being shaken. It tends to emanate from the left side, first.

 
The 03 quit on me . 68,000 miles and 10,000 miles after dealer installed new cam chain tensioner .

Breaking down motor now . Found several intake valves stuck open .

Found tensioner spring broken and plunger of tensioner stuck when removed from motor .

This was supposed to be new version of tensioner . part number 5JW122101000 @ $119.00

 
That sucks. Broken spring is not the usual failure, which is more of a weak spring situation. Though I do remember one report of a broken spring.

Out of curiosity, does the new failed tensioner have a paint dot on it?

 
@ Fred W > Yes, tensioner body has a sky blue dot on it .

Is their any reason for the dot ?

I was trying to post pics , but haven't figured it out .

 
^^^^ Blue Dot represents the "improved" design CCT. [latest versions have a green dot] New on left and old on right, note the longer plunger on new CCT. Spring is also noticeably stiffer than previous version. The old one was OEM on my '06 and was changed at approximately 50K.

DSCN2042.jpg


--G

 
Update to Post #51 June13 2010

A. 2003

B. 38000

C. Checked old tensioner myself , adjusted manually several times .

Had dealer replace tensioner at 58000 miles

D. Replacing tensioner stopped noise for about 8000 miles .

E. Dealer was notified of noise on original unit.

F. Motor quit at 68000 miles . Noticed several bent intake valves .

Tensioner stuck , chain loose , Found broken spring inside of tensioner at teardown .

G. Dealer replaced old tensioner , new tensioner failed .

H. Paid for tensioner replacement myself .

I. Replaced original tensioner 58000 miles

New tensioner failed at 68000 miles

J. Randomly , both times

K. Not confident in Yamaha design , next motor will have manual tensioner .

This bike has been a tank , not considering getting rid of it .

Going to repair it and ride on .

 
It would be extremely unusual for a tensioner spring to break, and I don't recall anyone ever having that issue. I would lean toward the spring having a defect that ultimately failed. You should discuss this with the dealer, and have them give you an explanation of why a tensioner spring should fail at all, and certainly not in 10k. A defective part is not your fault..........

 
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It would be extremely unusual for a tensioner spring to break, and I don't recall anyone ever having that issue. I would lean toward the spring having a defect that ultimately failed. You should discuss this with the dealer, and have them give you an explanation of why a tensioner spring should fail at all, and certainly not in 10k. A defective part is not your fault..........
Ray,

I'd have to take issue with your first sentence. As the originator of this thread, I can unequivocally state that the spring in MY tensioner broke, resulting in the (unwanted) replacement of my '04's motor at 46k miles.

Jarmo's experience is only the 2nd that I'm aware of of the CCT's failure due to a broken spring. And I've been hanging out here for over 10 years and this the only the second "broken spring" issue I've heard of.

I do agree with you that either the dealer or Yamaha should step up and accept some, if not all, responsibility for a CCT failure in 10k miles.

As a side note, I replaced my OEM CCT with one pictured as in my profile picture....100% manual.

ytr6.jpg


In the 58,000 miles subsequent to the original installation, the unit has required exactly ZERO adjustment. It hasn't required even a millimeter of adjustment in the last 6+ years.

Based on my personal experience, and boosted by Jarmo's experience, I would NEVER own an FJR with an OEM CCT.

 
Appreciate the clarification, Howie. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how a tensioner spring would break, as the forces on it are a simple in-out fluctuation in more or less a straight line. Just seems to me an inherent metal defect in a specific area of the spring that fatigued might be the cause...... I'd definitely discuss it with the dealer that did the install.

 
I agree. I do not see how the CCT spring would ever break during actual use. The amount of variation of the tension is minuscule.

It would have to have broken during manipulation, when retracting the plunger for installation or removal. Once I get the tensioner installed into an engine I have always messed with the plunger screw to make sure all of the tension is still there before touching the starter button.

 
Took a while to drill through my Photobucket account to find it, but here's a pic of my disassembled CCT.

As you can see, the spring, on the left, is in two pieces. It should be one piece.

cct3.jpg


Should the spring break?

I don't don't think so, but it did. And it ain't real strong, either. The actual steel is smaller than a small paper clip.

But break, it did...and toasted 12 of the 16 valves.

 
I remembered that yours had broken, and mentioned it earlier. You are right, it definitely shouldn't have.

But in full disclosure, it didn't "just happen" did it? As I recall you had been "exercising" it because you had heard some cam chain noise previously. I am fairly certain that was the case with my friend ionbeam too.

I fully agree that it is not the most robust CCT design. Some other designs I've been exposed to (mostly in autos) are far superior. But the number of FJR CCT failures is also relatively low with any that have not been messed with. And the newer paint dot replacements seem to have an even lower rate than the early ones.

Nothing is 100% fail proof. Even your mechanical tesnioner the lock nut could vibrate loose and the tensioner would back off. I realize the chance of that happening is very, very (very!) small, but it is all just a matter of odds and numbers and percentages. Not that many have had problems with the shitty OEM design either.

Of course that doesn't make the folks who have been stung by the stock CCT feel any better. And I fully support your encouraging folkls to switch to the mechanical device. But I''ll just take my chances (at least while I am covered by YES!) ;)

 
Sorry for Hijacking this thread.

In the picture is my tensioner spring as removed after 10,000 miles . New tensioner was installed by

dealer and has blue dot on outside .



 
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