Fork problem

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Moses2

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Wanting to replace seals,covers and oil in my 2007 FJR1300, the left 8mm hex head broke loose and removed easily to drain. However, the right did not. It felt odd when it appeared to break free, like it was cross threaded. At this point I am assuming something is amiss internally. With the fork out of the triple tree, turning the bolt also turns the fork cylinder.  Restraining the fork back into the triple tree, the bolt turns with resistance,  but does not thread out. 

 
That bolt is not to drain the forks.  It is used to hold the piston and dampening rod assembly.

I can't fault you for not following the book, because when I service FJR forks, I don't follow the book either.

 
Thank you for responding.  I had watched a video showing the removal of the hex bolt, followed by pumping the oil out by working the slide.

 
I’m not quite understanding the use of the tool. I’m overlooking something, as I don’t see how to get by the washer on top of the spring to reach the 26mm nut. That washer appears to be a stop for the spring?

 
Last week, I pulled the forks on my "new-to-me" 2007 FJR1300A to do a fork oil change. The previous owner had probably not ever done that service as the oil that I dumped out was grey and smelled foul. When I pumped the damper rod after filling the fork with new oil all went well. I then pumped the upper half of the fork up and down in the lower half of the fork. I felt a grinding in the mechanism. Hmmm.....time to take the fork apart and replace the  bushings. After watching YouTube videos for a day and reading posts on this forum and reviewing my Haynes manual and the shop manual.......I chickened out🤔. Lucky for me, there is a suspension specialty shop near me. I brought the forks there. I will let you know how that goes.

 
I like doing my own work but yeah, some things just ain't worth it.

Although - several years ago I went to a dealership where a friend ran the parts counter to order fork stuff.  He talked me into giving him the forks, said one day turn around, no mess in my garage and for very little extra money.  Came back with them and the upgraded springs and had them back on the bike soon enough.  A few days later left on a multi-day trip and it never felt right.  Got back and found whoever did the work never cut the spacers to account for the new longer springs.  Wasn't my friend's fault but did let him know to watch who's working on his bikes.  Couldn't imagine that happening in a suspension shop though.

 
Lucky for me, there is a suspension specialty shop near me.
Where did you take the forks?  (Moncton area?)

I have been trying to find someone reasonably local to refurbish a rear Penske aftermarket shock (without any luck).  Closest I found in Canada is a place in Ontario.

 
Shore Cycle in Nova Scotia has a suspension guru - Frank.

Canadian FJR
Thanks Scott.  I'll give them a call.

I was looking into getting the stuff to do the shock myself and for a little over a couple hundred dollars, I could get the necessary special tools and the  seal kits aren't too expensive.  While the process doesn't look that complicated, doing something by rote is very different from KNOWING what you are doing!  I actually have two Penske shocks that fit my 2011.  The one on the bike is long overdue for a refurb and the "spare" is leaking.  Depending on what they charge, "payback" for the stuff would be likely less than two shock services.

 
Where did you take the forks?  (Moncton area?)

I have been trying to find someone reasonably local to refurbish a rear Penske aftermarket shock (without any luck).  Closest I found in Canada is a place in Ontario.
B2 Suspensions: 2650 Route 106, Boundary Creek, NB. That's near Salisbury. The owner is Lorne Banks. 506-380-2265. At this point, I can't make any comment on the work he does. I spoke with the Lorne. All I can say for now is that he seemed like a reasonable and knowledgeable fellow and his shop looked pretty impressive and clean.

 
Got the forks back on Feb 25. That was about a 3 week turn-around time for a "fork rebuild" (new seals and fork oil according to the invoice). Total cost was $388.55CAN. It is still winter here in NB, Canada, so I have not yet road-tested the work.

 
So: Forks back on the bike; front brakes cleaned and inspected; valve clearances checked (all in spec, whew); throttle body synch: done. Bike is re-assembled. Sunny and 14C tomorrow.....ROAD TEST!!!😁

 
Sunny and 14C tomorrow.....ROAD TEST!!!😁
I have been "road testing" the bike - four times in the last week.  Warm again tomorrow so I think I'll take a run down to the Fundy coast at St. Andrews.

Good most of this week and back to normal by Friday or so.  Let us know what kind of job they did on the suspension.  Deciding whether to take my Penske rear shock there or to Shore Cycle in Nova Scotia.  Were they good to deal with?  Moncton area is closer than Shore but I expect to be down that way as soon as travel restrictions are lifted.

 
I have been "road testing" the bike - four times in the last week.  Warm again tomorrow so I think I'll take a run down to the Fundy coast at St. Andrews.

Good most of this week and back to normal by Friday or so.  Let us know what kind of job they did on the suspension.  Deciding whether to take my Penske rear shock there or to Shore Cycle in Nova Scotia.  Were they good to deal with?  Moncton area is closer than Shore but I expect to be down that way as soon as travel restrictions are lifted.
Road test report:  After some slow speed manouvers for about 20 minutes, some 70-90kph on back roads for about 20 minutes, higher-speed runs of 120 kph and circling some roundabouts (6 times), I can say that the forks feel great, better than at the end of last season. So, I can recommend B2 Suspensions. BTW, all the other work I had done on the bike also checked out😀

 
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