Fork Seal & Bushing Replacement

[hppants]

We were able to remove, and later re-install, the lower cap screw by using the spring force to hold the internal damper assy.

Excellent information - thanks again.

 

[hppants]

Well, I'm totally frustrated. My bike is a 2005 non-abs.

FJR guy is correct, on the 2005 Gen I forks, the tool referenced by FJRRed will not work. Like FJR Guy, I used my impact wrench to get the lower bolt out. Then I pulled the entire rod, spring, and piston assy out. Of course, the lower spacer came out as well. I replace both bushings, the seal, circlip and dust cover - no problem. Then, for the next 2 hours, I have been trying to get the spring/rod/piston assy back into the lower fork. If I eliminate the lower spacer, I can slip it in, and tighten it up with the lower bolt. But if I use the spacer (which of course I know I must), I simply cannot line up all of the parts to install the lower bolt.

I could disassemble the piston from the rod, but after I install the piston, I have no idea how I can get the springs installed. I know I'm supposed to fill the fork without the springs in, but I have no idea how this will be possible.

Any help would be appreciated - thanks.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Well, I'm totally frustrated. My bike is a 2005 non-abs.

FJR guy is correct, on the 2005 Gen I forks, the tool referenced by FJRRed will not work. Like FJR Guy, I used my impact wrench to get the lower bolt out. Then I pulled the entire rod, spring, and piston assy out. Of course, the lower spacer came out as well. I replace both bushings, the seal, circlip and dust cover - no problem. Then, for the next 2 hours, I have been trying to get the spring/rod/piston assy back into the lower fork. If I eliminate the lower spacer, I can slip it in, and tighten it up with the lower bolt. But if I use the spacer (which of course I know I must), I simply cannot line up all of the parts to install the lower bolt.

I could disassemble the piston from the rod, but after I install the piston, I have no idea how I can get the springs installed. I know I'm supposed to fill the fork without the springs in, but I have no idea how this will be possible.

Any help would be appreciated - thanks.

First of all Jeff is right.. Ya don't need that tool.

Secondly..It is a carver getting things lined up for re-assembly, but until you have everything just so so It ain't gonna happen.

Might I suggest you align things with a pick or something of that order? Plus the lower aluminum sleeve/cup must go in before you instal the slider tube. Yep, I know it seems crazy but I spent the same amount of time you have the first time I did it.. I bet yer trying to get that "cup" past the end of the slider tube.

Drop it in and align it with something Hi tech like a broom handle and I bet it goes right back together for ya.

 

[hppants]

Bustanut (feels wierd calling you that) - thanks for the help and encouragement.

A couple more questions:

1. I've been told that I need to fill the fork to 100 mm from the top (fork compressed) without the springs installed. This is the way I have always filled forks after I change seals (1st go on the FJR, obviously). If that is true, then I must have to seperate the spring from the piston/rod (#10), because the lower bolt into the piston is the only way to keep the oil in. Correct?

2. If #1 is true, once I do that, how do I re-install the rod/spring assy? I can't get to the brass nut once the upper and lower fork tubes are together?

3. This is the 4th bike I've done fork seals on, but the first with adjustable dampening. On every other one, I've split the tubes, then installed the bushings, seal, clip, dust cover (re-assemble tubes with new parts), then install the spring assy. Am I doing the FJR wrong? Meaning, should I install the piston/rod/spring assy into the lower fork only, and then assemble the upper fork?

Please don't torch me with "get the shop manual" - I have been trying to buy one for 3 months. Back order all the way around - everywhere. Guess the vendors are waiting for Japan to re-print some. If anyone has a line on a shop manual, please share.

And I apologize for jacking this thread, but I do think my questions are relevant to the subject.

Thank you very much.

 

[Bustanut joker]

No you don't have to dissasemble/remove the spring. Plenty of clearance to do what you need.

What I've always done it taken the level while it's compressed and before disassembly. I know some will probably go nuts because it's not per the manual. Typically it's 1.100 to 1.200 inches from the top of the tube.

I would suggest not having the cap (18 41) on as it gets in the way when you have to pump up the fork.

 

[hppants]

Another hour this morning with no luck. Damm it - this thing is pissing me off.

OK - so what I'm attmepting to do is the right thing, I just have to figure out how to do it. If I install the spring/rod/piston assy without #11, it goes in about 2 seconds. I have a piece of PVC pipe that is perfect for installing #11 right in the hole. Put when I try to stab the spring/rod/piston assy, it simply will not plunge far enough to seat all the way.

Yeah, I was thinking about putting in the same amount of oil as before, but the seal was leaking. I don't know how much was in there. The other fork was not leaking, and since I'm the 2nd owner, and the PO did not replace the seals, I know that the amount what's in the other fork is factory. Guess I could fall back on that.

So, you are saying that the fork oil level, after cycling a few times to burp, should be about 1.1-1.2 inches from the top of the upper fork tube, when the tube is compressed, and the spring/rod/piston assy is installed?

I'm kind of on my own here. My yamaha dealer straight out told me that he has never sold an FJR, and doesn't have the first clue about how to work on it. Uh OK - your not going to touch my bike, thank you. I figured the fork seal job was perfect to get my feet wet. I've still got to replace the pinion seal, and the stator cover.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Jeebus! I don't know where that number came from.. No It has to be at the top of the stroke and 4.110 to 4.200 of and inch from the top of the leg. It's a pain in the butt keeping the oil from overflowing when you pump 'em up

 

[TomInPA]

I have the dreaded blown fork seal (right) on my 2005. Just found it after doing all the goat-trails on the way to Mt. Hamilton. Is there a similar pictorial guide on repairing the Gen I seals?

 

[hppants]

I just finished my 2005 fork seals. This guide was very useful, with the only difference being that the Gen I forks only have 2 bushings. Also, as described above, order for each fork:

Both Bushings - #5 and 3 below

Fork Seal - #7

Washer that goes on top of the bushing - #8

Circlip that goes on top of the seal - #9

O-ring for the fork cap - #19

collapsable washer for the bottom bolt - #13

Dust covers - #6

www.partshark.com has excellent prices on these OEM yamaha parts.

You will need 3 pints of fork oil, and when full, the 3rd pint will be all but empty.

Here's a tip that will help - the spacer (#11) goes BELOW the upper fork tube for re-assembly. In other words, install the spacer FIRST - use a broom handle or similar to center it. The install the upper fork tube with a new lower bushing installed, Then install the dampening rod/piston assy. Then drive the upper bushing. Then install the washer, fork seal, circlip, and dust cover.

Otherwise, follow the instruction on this thread - it was very helpful for me.

 

[TomInPA]

Thanks to all and hppants for the tips. I'll be ordering parts and doing this soon. I'll try to document any difference in what was done int Post #1 here for Gen I.

This has been a great thread, and really appreciate the help. Hopefully the pictures and guide will eventually become one of those classic DIY guides that has made the maintenance tasks so much easier.

 

[hppants]

Rode the bike 200 miles yesterday. A new front PR3, and new fork seals/oil makes it feel like a whole new bike!!! I went with the Honda Showa 5wt, 650 cc in each tube. The bike feels fantastic - it really improved the dampening effect. Once scrubbed in, the PR3 is very grippy.

As a matter of practice, before leaving for my day trip yesterday, I rode the bike 5 miles to gas up and returned home to check all fasteners with my torque wrench. Not surprising, I found 2 that were a tad loose. Just wanted to throw that out there to remind us all to go over everything and make sure the bike is safe.

 

[TomInPA]

Rode the bike 200 miles yesterday. A new front PR3, and new fork seals/oil makes it feel like a whole new bike!!! I went with the Honda Showa 5wt, 650 cc in each tube. The bike feels fantastic - it really improved the dampening effect. Once scrubbed in, the PR3 is very grippy.

As a matter of practice, before leaving for my day trip yesterday, I rode the bike 5 miles to gas up and returned home to check all fasteners with my torque wrench. Not surprising, I found 2 that were a tad loose. Just wanted to throw that out there to remind us all to go over everything and make sure the bike is safe.

Did you use that modified exhaust pipe to set the bushings?

Here is my parts list..missing anything? (prices are Ron Ayers)

METAL, SLIDE 2 (3) 4SV-23135-10-00 $5.52

METAL, SLIDE 1 (5) 4SV-23125-10-00 $5.88

SEAL, DUST (6) 4SV-23144-00-00 $5.34

OIL SEAL (7) 4SV-23145-01-00 $4.90

GUIDE, COVER UPPER (8) 4SV-23115-00-00 $2.11

CLIP, OIL SEAL (9) 4SV-23156-00-00 $0.62

GASKET (13) 90430-10171-00 $1.17

O-ring (19) 93210-40N50-00 2 $1.21

 

[hppants]

I used a piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC as my driver. For the bushing, I used the old washer (#8) under my pvc pipe to drive the upper bushing. The pipe by itself worked perfect for the seal.

Your list is good to go. All you need is 3 pints of fork oil.

 

[jpcfjr]

I used a piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC as my driver. For the bushing, I used the old washer (#8) under my pvc pipe to drive the upper bushing. The pipe by itself worked perfect for the seal.

Your list is good to go. All you need is 3 pints of fork oil.

Is anybody aware of a COMPLETE write up for a Gen II fork rebuild with Race Tech valve installation? I've been looking for this for some time searching the fjrforum and the internet.

Something with pictures would be awesome.

Thanks,

j

 

[rfulcher]

FJRed, thanks for a great post.

My fork seals started leaking 2 weeks ago. Of course this was only a week after I changed fork oil :blink: Ordered the parts and with some help from friends the tools were fabricated. The ends of the exhaust pipe extension were cut off with a lathe to make the bushing driver--how's that for overkill? I couldn't find a 6-point 26mm 1/2 inch drive socket in any local stores (WTF?), but a 6-point 1-1/16" 1/2 inch drive socket worked just fine.

This was the first time I have done anything harder than changing fork spring and it went exactly as described. :clapping:

 

[Change]

Based on this excellent thread, I began the work to change out the seals and bushings in my 2007. After 33,000 miles, both fork had begun to weep and how better to spend a rainy, cold weekend in the Middle Atlantic. The fuid was filthy. On getting the damper assemblies out, my first thought was that Yamaha for no reason paints the assemblies dark grey. They were covered in sludge. Anyway, the job went perfectly right up to the part about removing the loose bushings following separating the fork tubes. It's such a tease. I can see in the upper fork tube that the middle and lower bushing are queued up to be removed easily, but that damned upper bushing is frozen in place and blocking the way out. The upper bushing appears to be right where it should be and is not obviously crooked. I have tried a litle coaxing but for fear of damaging the tube--and since I am mildly annoyed--I have called a halt for the night.

I am thinking to heat the fork tube with a propane torch in a sort of reverse homage to the technique of freezing a bearing before installing it. Probably a good idea to clean out all the remaining fluid first. Does anyone see issues with heating the tube, such as "you'll burn the paint right off that fork tube"? Anyone have other ideas, ingenious or no, to free this stuck bushinging? Or is this a typical situation that yields only to brute force?

Thanks

 

[not2shabby]

I used a piece of 2" schedule 40 PVC as my driver. For the bushing, I used the old washer (#8) under my pvc pipe to drive the upper bushing. The pipe by itself worked perfect for the seal.

Your list is good to go. All you need is 3 pints of fork oil.

Is anybody aware of a COMPLETE write up for a Gen II fork rebuild with Race Tech valve installation? I've been looking for this for some time searching the fjrforum and the internet.

Something with pictures would be awesome.

Thanks,

j

In case you still haven't done the install, here ya go.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=127506

Better late than never....

 

[THE919]

In the process of rebuilding the forks on 2006 FJR. Got the cap off, drained oil, removed dust seal, small clip, now on to the bolt at the bottom of the fork. The bolt will not come out. Keeps on turning.

What am I doing wrong? I must have turned the bottom bolt fifty times and it's not coming out. See picture

 

[ULEWZ]

In the process of rebuilding the forks on 2006 FJR. Got the cap off, drained oil, removed dust seal, small clip, now on to the bolt at the bottom of the fork. The bolt will not come out. Keeps on turning.

What am I doing wrong? I must have turned the bottom bolt fifty times and it's not coming out. See picture

Use an impact wrench.

 

[ahchiu]

I just made the special tool for the fork service :yahoo: I will be doing my forks at the PNW tech meet this fall