Fork seals...

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06Feejer

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Sadly, my 06 FJR1300A is already leaking at my right fork seal. Only 25K and my last Honda went 100K before it needed to be replaced and 68K more miles before the next set! LOL

I've got a YES warranty, but Mamma Yamma seems to think 2-3 yrs is all a fork seal should last so I gotta pay for this one by myself. :angry: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:

I change my dual sport tires and am about to do another set on my FJR. Can I do the fork seals or are they a major pain in the you know what?

If I take her to the dealer, any idea what is a reasonable charge? Does the fairing have to come off?

OK, a couple pix of my babies to keep this from being TOO boring.

I'm in the Baltimore area and wonder if anybody has an HONEST dealer around these parts to do this job? Tired of paying Baltimore rip off prices for work that isn't even completed.

NeedbathXR650L.jpg


PeteFJR.jpg


 
Pull the forks out,

Pop the plastic guards off,

Pry out the old seal with a small screwdriver (carefully),

Slide on the new seal, and seat it carefully with a small block of wood or piece of PVC over the slider,

Reinstall guards, then forks,

Done!!!! :rolleyes:

However, since your going to be removing the forks, you may as well change the fluid while your at it <_<

 
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My left one just started leaking at 36k miles and is getting worse. My Honda went all of 7k before it needed the left one and then another 8k before the right one went. Guess it's just luck of the draw.

I'll probably have the dealer do it since I have to have some new tires popped on as well.

 
I don't think it matters diddly squat on what brand the motorcycle is when it comes to fork seals. Just chance, how good the seal is, how good the installation was, and most importantly what debris or contamination get into the seal to cause it's failure.

My 04 FJR's seals went 90k until a crash took them out. Currently have 82k on those replacements. Yet my 2nd FJR had a seal go bad at 19k.

I wouldn't change them myself as I don't have the tools/technical knowledge to do it.

What I would do to save money, is remove the forks yourself and take them to the dealer, or better yet, some suspension shop. And as stated above, make sure the oil is flushed and replaced.

 
Don't let the idea of changing them and the oil scare ya off.. It's not a difficult as you think.

The worst part of the job was getting the lower pinch bolts out without removing any plastic. Just need an air impact and a few tools for the actual job.. About a 4 on a 10 scale as far as difficult.

:jester:

 
Don't let the idea of changing them and the oil scare ya off.. It's not a difficult as you think.
The worst part of the job was getting the lower pinch bolts out without removing any plastic. Just need an air impact and a few tools for the actual job.. About a 4 on a 10 scale as far as difficult.

:jester:
WTF? That might be the first serious post Busta has ever made.

Can we get a copy of this to preserve for the history books? :)

 
WTF? That might be the first serious post Busta has ever made.
Can we get a copy of this to preserve for the history books? :)
Nah, there was another one yesterday. Can't find it now, what with 'em being so few and far between.

It's a contest, I tell ya. One human post a day, and the member who finds the most during April gets a link to a free picture of a trophy.

 
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When seals go bad!!!

seal.jpg


MECHANIC: "Mr. 'Nut, it looks like you blew a seal."

BUSTANUT: "errrrr....ummmmm....uhhhhhh.....noooo...that's just ice cream dripping down my face."

 
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Removing the wheel is rather involved, but getting the forks off is easy. Just 6 bolts holding them on. I've removed mine for service at a local performance shop (stock replacements, I'll send mine out to GP if I want a real suspension).

 
Dunno what the average is, but with 38k on my forks the bushings were definitely used up. A pretty good case could be made that at 25k you're due for disassembly and inspection anyway.

If I were you I'd just send them forks to GP Suspension and be done with it ;-)

 
Be sure to replace or re-flatten those washers that pull the seals. They come out conical and if they go back in that way you will be doing it all over again shortly.

 
Fork seals don't often fail at that mileage by themselves. Fluid overfill or a stone hit is the more likely cause at that mileage. Don't just replace the seal. Carefully examine the fork leg for impact damage that can be very small. The impact causes a crater effect that has raised edges which abrade the seal. This happened on my bike at 15k miles. You can polish the damage out. Depending on the severity a small jewelers file, then 320 grit emery paper, and work your way up to 1000 wet then metal polish and you'll be good to go.

Just something to keep in mind.

 
Don't let the idea of changing them and the oil scare ya off.. It's not a difficult as you think.
The worst part of the job was getting the lower pinch bolts out without removing any plastic. Just need an air impact and a few tools for the actual job.. About a 4 on a 10 scale as far as difficult.

:jester:
WTF? That might be the first serious post Busta has ever made.

Can we get a copy of this to preserve for the history books? :)


He's been different ever since the frying pan incident.........Like it's not even Busta anymore :blink:


Nah, there was another one yesterday. Can't find it now, what with 'em being so few and far between.

It's a contest, I tell ya. One human post a day, and the member who finds the most during April gets a link to a free picture of a trophy.

Oh yeah ya'll go ahead an bust me *** :) As soon as I empty this bottle... :dribble:

normal_photo_no_2135.jpg


I'm gonna slap some **** weasel *****. :eek:

:****:

:jester:

 
The upper dust seal is easily removed.

Fork seals are more work - must remover inner slider from outer tube.

Gen II bushings are a royal PITA, especially the lower bushing.

Clicky

Haulin Ashe found that readily available pipe can be had of just the right dimension - used for hand rails..

 
If I take her to the dealer, any idea what is a reasonable charge? Does the fairing have to come off?
I took the forks off myself and shipped them to Desert Valley PowerSports in Prosser, WA, my trusted FJR dealer. Charge was about $150 to re-seal and service both forks on my '04. (Bike at 51K miles, one fork leaking.) I provided the oil and some new Wilbers springs. UPS shipping (from Boise) was additional $20 each way. It was a pretty quick turnaround. I serviced the steering head and changed front tire myself while baby up on the pipe stand. Not the cheapest option to ship, but I like Desert Valley's quality work.

I didn't take off the tupperware--followed the link Capt Bob provided earlier.

 
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