fragile original keys - need new ones for 2015 gen3

[tempest766]

One key broke and one left... I purchased my 2015 gen3 bike used (early 2017) and got two original keys and a metal ingot (not a key, but a small metal wafer) that they said was the master to program other keys. Being that the factory keys are crap, I've already bent one of the two to the point where it is non-usable and now brittle to the point where any further manipulation will break the key.

What are my "cost effective" options to get additional spare keys and have them coded?

Are the chipped blanks readily available and at a reasonable cost? ... and by that I mean reputable supply chains (not e-bay) and at a price one wouldn't consider criminal extortion.

What is the process to recode the new keys after they've been cut, so that they will start the bike without triggering the (pay us big bucks to re-own your bike) device?

Anybody else recently go through this headache and care to share?

 

[FJRLoonie]

I'm not sure if this will work with the FJR but it has worked for my old Toyota Sienna and it will only cost a few $'s. I have had keys cut from blanks that have no chip in them and I simply put the old, worn out chip key on a key fob with the new cheap blank. The old chipped key is close enough to the ignition that it works as it was intended. For the cost of a new blank, you can try it out.

 

[tempest766]

I'm not sure if this will work with the FJR but it has worked for my old Toyota Sienna and it will only cost a few $'s. I have had keys cut from blanks that have no chip in them and I simply put the old, worn out chip key on a key fob with the new cheap blank. The old chipped key is close enough to the ignition that it works as it was intended. For the cost of a new blank, you can try it out.

I thought about that and it may end up being an option but I'm hoping for a "right" solution first.

 

[Fred W]

There are no chips in the keys for USA bikes. Only Bikes from other markets including Canada got the immobilized and chipped keys.

I've somehow, over 120k miles and over ten years on two FJRs managed to avoid bending or breaking any keys. I did have the one key I used most on the 1st FJR (my '05) that wore in such a way that I could pull the key out while the bike was in the run position. While that feature was kind of handy, it wa alarming that if it wore further it might not unlock anything anymore.

Just made copies of the other one and all was good.

 

[JamesK]

I don't know what Yamaha has done with the Gen3 bikes, but I'm still using my original key, over 260,000 miles now and no issues

 

[Ignacio]

I thought about that and it may end up being an option but I'm hoping for a "right" solution first.

Do you have a non-US bike? If it is a US bike...it's not chipped. Go get a copy at most any typical local lock smith.

The right solution is to not reef on them to begin with. I've had four FJRs that all used the same key design and never had an issue. If it's stiff, I rock the handlebars a bit.

 

[art miller]

Tempest766 still has not confirmed if his bike is a U.S. or non-U.S. model. I too have had three FJR's and never bent a key or had a key wear out. Some people are heavy handed and tend to exercise the gorilla grip. I see that in the gym where some ******* has to let weights fall making a lot of noise. Some cagers like to slam the doors which is also annoying. That's my gripe of the day!!!

 

[Fred W]

He's in Western PA. That was in the Yoo Ess last time I checked.

 

[tempest766]

OK guys. It's a 2015 FJR (gen 3) US model...Are we 100% positive that the 2015 US is not chipped? Seems like an "upgrade" they would have worked into the gen3 bikes.

Regarding being fragile...these keys on the 2015 are the most fragile of any key I've ever used. Since the lockup on the saddle bags can be finnicky I've stressed the first key on a couple of occasions...and today I innadvertantly leaned on the bike too close to the saddlebad lock (with key in it) and nearly broke the key off in the lock....but I digres because I've got a whole other rant about the OEM luggage....keeping focused...anyway, my bike had a metal master stub with a code stamped on it. Oh, and something as simple as putting the key in my back jeans pocket and sitting on a bar stool has bent it, and I'm a pretty light guy.

It would sure be nice to confirm that this bike does NOT use RFID/chipped keys and that a dumb cut replacment will work without danger of disabling the bike.

Your input is appreciated.

 

[Ignacio]

It would sure be nice to confirm that this bike does NOT use RFID/chipped keys and that a dumb cut replacment will work without danger of disabling the bike.
Your input is appreciated.

Dude, why don't you do the confirmation by going and spending ~$5 on a replacement key and try it! You've already gotten confirmation from two people with nearly 30,000 posts with multiple FJRs that have never broken a key. That should be enough. And I'm also the one that builds and monitors the model matrix and probably would have noticed if something changed.

If you find specific reason it's NOT true, then post up with your evidence. Thanks.

 

[BkerChuck]

If I'm not mistaken the little metal "ingot" you referred to should be the 4 digit key code that helps identify your lock set code. The only issue I'venture had is melting some of the black plastic on the head of the key when my shop light was laying against it one time. No chip in US spec bikes.

 

[tempest766]

Will try to locate somebody with correct replacement blanks and a key cutting machine tomorrow.

 

[Bounce]

I took mine to a local locksmith/keymaker and put the originals away while they were nearly new. I've done this on many of my previous bikes so it was just SOP.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Any decent locksmith should have the correct key blanks. The Ilco brand seems to be a favorite. I had a bunch of them cut a few years back. There for a while, there was a lot of complaining about how soft the OEM keys are and lots of people seemed to be bending them. My OEM keys were fine, but I decided to color code the new blanks and reserve my OEM keys, just in case.

As far as chips in the keys, I do not have a '15, but I've ridden with a couple guys that have the same Ilco keys I have. None of the US spec FJRs are chipped. That's reserved for our northern neighbors, and it doesn't seem most of them are thrilled about it.

 

[eflyguy]

Regarding being fragile...these keys on the 2015 are the most fragile of any key I've ever used. Since the lockup on the saddle bags can be finnicky I've stressed the first key on a couple of occasions...and today I innadvertantly leaned on the bike too close to the saddlebad lock (with key in it) and nearly broke the key off in the lock....

The ignition and bag locks are no different than on other bikes I have or had, they can be very hard to turn if there is pressure on the mechanism. On the ignition, it's the steering lock, and relieving pressure by turning the bars a little makes the ignition turn effortlessly. On the luggage, pressing the mechanism against the direction of opening does the same thing.

Yes, the keys are pretty soft, by design - they're not meant to overcome significant resistance, or the lock mechanism itself would eventually fail.

 

[sapest]

OP

"Since the lockup on the saddle bags can be finnicky I've stressed the first key on a couple of occasions...and today I innadvertantly leaned on the bike too close to the saddlebad lock (with key in it) and nearly broke the key off in the lock...."

If your keys are bending because you are forcing a saddlebag lock, then either:

There is something caught between the halves of the saddlebags when you are closing them, or

The 'flap' ( the handle that the lock is mounted in) has jumped a tooth because someone forced the latch to close.

Could also be a screw holding the lock is backing out, check those and make sure they have some loctite on the threads.

And yes the Canadian keys bend too. . . . . . . .

-Steve

 

[cl12000]

OK guys. It's a 2015 FJR (gen 3) US model...Are we 100% positive that the 2015 US is not chipped? Seems like an "upgrade" they would have worked into the gen3 bikes.
Regarding being fragile...these keys on the 2015 are the most fragile of any key I've ever used. Since the lockup on the saddle bags can be finnicky I've stressed the first key on a couple of occasions...and today I innadvertantly leaned on the bike too close to the saddlebad lock (with key in it) and nearly broke the key off in the lock....but I digres because I've got a whole other rant about the OEM luggage....keeping focused...anyway, my bike had a metal master stub with a code stamped on it. Oh, and something as simple as putting the key in my back jeans pocket and sitting on a bar stool has bent it, and I'm a pretty light guy.

It would sure be nice to confirm that this bike does NOT use RFID/chipped keys and that a dumb cut replacment will work without danger of disabling the bike.

Your input is appreciated.

I bought two keys cut from this place for my 2016 ES (gen4) and they are stronger than the originals for I think $6.50 each. I stored the originals and use these instead. The USA FJR (GEN 3 or GEN 4) don't have a chip.

https://www.keys4urride.com/ym63-yamaha-p-93.html

this guy has a 2014 GEN3 and this is the key I bought and it works.

 

[mcatrophy]

... Since the lockup on the saddle bags can be finnicky I've stressed the first key on a couple of occasions...and today I innadvertantly leaned on the bike too close to the saddlebad lock (with key in it) and nearly broke the key off in the lock....but I digres because I've got a whole other rant about the OEM luggage....

The luggage locks usually require holding the tab down before locking/unlocking to reduce the stress on the key. Some locks can be very stiff, on my previous ('10) FJR they were particularly so, to the point where I did a small modification to allow them to turn freely, posted here.

Off topic: If one of your rants is that the contents of your bag always tips out because the lids open too far, you can easily reduce that, solution posted here.

Back on topic, I learnt very early on not to leave the key in the case lock at any time, it's far to easy to knock it with anything and bend it, or even to use it as a lever to close the catch. So I am in the habit of undoing the catch then immediately removing the key and putting it in the ignition switch, where it is relatively safe, only returning it when the catch needs the key to enable it to be closed again.

Ps. I've a European FJR that does have "the chip". It's never caused a problem, but if it does need replacing, Mama wants something like £40 to replace it. That's not as much as many cars these days, but it's enough that I am very careful with my keys.

 

[Fred W]

You know, I wonder how many of the people that end up bending keys are the ones also using the front steering lock? That is one habit that I just never developed. But I do notice some other folks who use the steering lock religiously.

Other than being an PITA to the owner when the bike is parked, I've never been able to appreciate how that improves the security enough to be worth the hassle, and maybe bent keys? Kind of on the same bent as a disc lock in the brake rotor?

Of course I don't actually live in a high crime area either, so these type of measures aren't really necessary. My insurance would still pay off if the bike were ever stolen, but the odds are pretty low of someone heisting an almost 700 lb old man touring bike.