friction zone

[TXFJR]

I don't know if I'm posting in the correct section.

I have ridden on/off since I was 15, I am almost 50 now. I "thought" I knew how to ride, but I am realizing I don't know as much as I thought I did! I was off a bike for approximately 6 years, and just recently got back into it, on a 2011 FJR. I read as much as I could, and watched as many you tube videos as I could. When I started riding my FJR, I realized what a heavy bike it was, and how my skills were not up to par. I have always admired motor officers, and their skill on bikes, and especially low speed maneuvering. So, I have a question for all experienced riders and, in particular, former or current motor officers. I am a 22 year veteran LEO, but never had the opportunity to ride motors, but always wish I had, and have GREAT respect for motor officers.

I started practicing slow maneuvers, especially u-turns, and started using the "friction zone" of slipping the clutch, giving it throttle, and using the rear brake. In just 15 minutes, I saw a great improvement of my control of the bike, and my confidence. But my question is this:

Am I doing damage to my clutch by "feathering" it , or riding that "friction zone"? I am willing to give up miles of service on my clutch for the purpose of having better control of my top-heavy beast, but I want to go into knowing if I am doing excessive damage to the clutch?

any tips or advice on learning slow speed maneuvering would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Twigg]

No. Generally wet clutches have no problems being "slipped" in that manner. Like everything else, moderation is the key but with the revs low you will do no damage.

I strongly recommend you find some professional training to help enhance and develop your riding skills. Your local dealership should be able to help you find a suitable course. If not there's always Google.

 

[TXFJR]

thanks Twigg, funny you mentioned that I was actually going to take the BASIC rider's safety course...as much as it humbles me to go back to the beginning, it may not be a bad idea to refresh on the "basics" !

 

[LKLD]

I don't think there would be any damage per se, as it's not something you'd be doing all of the time, just slow maneuvering. Maybe wear the clutch faster.

 

[Bounce]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/150102-avoiding-doubletriple-postings/

 

[Pterodactyl]

First, have you taken a Motorcycle Safety Foundation riders course? If not, the I recommend you do so.

Anytime you use the clutch you are causing some wear. Keeping the clutch in the friction zone will cause more wear than normal use, but not enough to be concerned about when done under normal riding conditions, such as parking lot maneuvers. If you become a stunt rider then you could have issues.

 

[TXFJR]

LOL! far from a stunt rider! if you watched me this afternoon it may have looked amusing...but no stunts!

 

[Abercrombie FJR]

The training bikes we use for MSF courses are operated in the friction zone all the time and we have never had a clutch related problem with some bikes approching 10 years old. On the other hand, one hard, high RPM drag strip style launch can destroy a FZ1 clutch. DAMHIK

 

[Uncle Hud]

A quickly aging clutch is nothing compared to the damage you can create during low-speed maneuvers. So I practice. One thing that helps me ...

I painted little spots on the top floor of a nearby parking deck - they represent the important points on the motorcycle driving license test. I spend a fair amount of time there, doing the exercises over and over and over. Since it's on the top floor, I'm rarely bothered by parked cars or traffic, and the sunshine dries away rain quickly.

It's also the "warm-up" for every ride: run the slalom and the big U-turn, then head out for wherever.

(Thank you, Michigan DMV!) https://www.michigan.gov/documents/sos/MI_RST_2_and_3-Wheel_Motorcycle_Instructions_with_Diagram__382067_7.pdf And the spots are 12 feet apart.

 

[TXFJR]

I go to a nearby school parking lot. It's good size, great surface, and after hours I don't worr about cars coming in. I'm working on smoothly letting up on the rear brake, as I found it getting squirly on me when I came out of a tight turn and I released the brake too suddenly.

What rpm range should I keep it at while turning?

 

[Donal]

I go to a nearby school parking lot. It's good size, great surface, and after hours I don't worr about cars coming in. I'm working on smoothly letting up on the rear brake, as I found it getting squirly on me when I came out of a tight turn and I released the brake too suddenly. What rpm range should I keep it at while turning?

For your practice runs I would recommend something like 1500 - 2000 RPM. You don't want it too high and risk damaging the clutch (unlikely) but you definitely don't want it too low with a risk of stalling at a critical moment. The important bits are constant RPM, constant clutch friction zone and control speed using (modulating) the rear brake only. On no account should you use the front brake, it's a sure way to destabilise the bike.

 

[Denver_FJR]

It's the exception but I recall a post or two where folks have burned the clutch after extended low speed practice sessions.

I would say the skill gained is worth the low risk.

 

[TXFJR]

I agree, I just wanted to know it up front, and hope to learn how to do it properly to minimize the wear and tear on the clutch

 

[TomInPA]

thanks Twigg, funny you mentioned that I was actually going to take the BASIC rider's safety course...as much as it humbles me to go back to the beginning, it may not be a bad idea to refresh on the "basics" !

I think this is an excellent idea, but take the advanced rider's course. The basic is really for the never-ever looking for a license. It focuses on instruction OFF the bike, and uses 250cc bikes to work on ride skills. The experienced rider course uses your own bike, and works primarily ON the bike, on low speed maneuvering tactics, evasive maneuvers and traffic safety. You will enjoy it, and won't feel out of place amongst those riders. Remove the bags, and go have fun. Unless you need to review your state motorcycle regulations and real basics, the advanced rider course is the right one.

 

[Abercrombie FJR]

thanks Twigg, funny you mentioned that I was actually going to take the BASIC rider's safety course...as much as it humbles me to go back to the beginning, it may not be a bad idea to refresh on the "basics" !

I think this is an excellent idea, but take the advanced rider's course. The basic is really for the never-ever looking for a license. It focuses on instruction OFF the bike, and uses 250cc bikes to work on ride skills. The experienced rider course uses your own bike, and works primarily ON the bike, on low speed maneuvering tactics, evasive maneuvers and traffic safety. You will enjoy it, and won't feel out of place amongst those riders. Remove the bags, and go have fun. Unless you need to review your state motorcycle regulations and real basics, the advanced rider course is the right one.

Excellent idea! 4 or 5 hours on your own bike with some experienced coaches would be your best place to start.

 

[TXFJR]

Can anyone tell me what sort of drills or maneuvers are covered in the advanced course?

 

[Twigg]

School parking lots are perfect during the evenings and weekends.

Our High School has a separate parking lot in front of the football stadium. It is painted with the full grid-iron and is used by the Band for all their practising.

Guess where I took my daughter for her first driving lessons She was perfecting all the basic maneuvers, including slaloms, figure of eights and reversing, before she went out on the road.

 

[Bounce]

Can anyone tell me what sort of drills or maneuvers are covered in the advanced course?

The ERC instructors during your class will be on top of that. They will also watch you so you don't practice (and learn) wrong techniques.

 

[TomInPA]

Can anyone tell me what sort of drills or maneuvers are covered in the advanced course?

You can find the curricula online, but what I recall.

• Emergency stop: Accelerate on a closed range, and on a signal, stop as fast as possible.
• Emergency stop and go without putting your foot down (intersection skills),
• Evasion skills...accelerate towards a "decision point" and follow the instruction to go left or right.
• Decreasing radius turns. Get up to speed and enter a curve with a decreasing radius.
• Decrease speed in a turn: Approach a turn too fast and bring the bike upright and brake without running off-course. (I think this would be better taught as trail braking).
• Tight slow U-turns
• Tight slow Figure 8s
• Slalom through pucs as fast as you can to learn to look ahead, not at the road.

Lots more, and you'll get coaching to improve as you go. No pressure to be fastest or best. You will receive instruction on the exercise, and it will be demonstrated. Each student gets multiple tries and coaching suited to their needs. Better students can demonstrate a higher level of skill, but they still get input. Less experienced students are encouraged and given specific skills to improve.