Front Brake Bleeding Fiasco

[Todd in LC]

The front brake fluid window on my 05 had become almost as dark as the master cyclinder case so I decided a flush was in order. I ran all the fluid out of the master cyclinder via the right side bleed nipple. I refilled with fresh fluid and then proceeded bleed both sides. As I was wrapping up I noticed the "backdrop" in the master cyclinder window was gone? I looked all over but could not find it. Of course I then started to wonder if there ever was a "backdrop" in the window. I looked at the manual and it shows it in the illustration. I can't imagine what could have happened to it. Any ideas anyone?

 

[Randy]

I don't see a metal backdrop on the brake side, but, I see one on the clutch side.

btw - make your life easier next time - don't drain all of the fluid out. Maybe you didn't, but, that's how I read it.

Just put a tube on like you're bleeding your brakes, open the bleeder and start pumping fluid out. As it gets low, add new fluid and keep pumping. Continue until you see new fluid coming through the tube. Then do the same on the other side.

One of the hardest places to get air out of the system is in the master cylinder. Keeping a primed system will eliminate the possibility of introducing air into the master cylinder.

 

[Todd in LC]

Thanks for looking, I was sitting in my cube at work stressing about this. I will take your advice and make some changes to the process next time.

 

[Warchild]

I don't see a metal backdrop on the brake side, but, I see one on the clutch side.

Correct.

See: FJRTech: Changing the Clutch Fluid

 

[Toecutter]

So, is the brake fluid change just as straightforward as the clutch? On an ABS model?

Thanks for the MityVac idea. Gotta get me one of those.

 

[donaldb]

I must admit I am a bit mechanically challanged but I think w/ABS (as w/mine) there is an ABS system that holds fluid, short of taking it to the shop w/2 hrs mechanical rate to clear the ABS system of fluid, I simply blead my lines, and rode for a few days, and re-blead them a second time. Maybe Warchild can give us a better alternative--I would be interested to have an answer to that ? as well--good ? toecutter

 

[panthercity]

I must admit I am a bit mechanically challanged but I think w/ABS (as w/mine) there is an ABS system that holds fluid, short of taking it to the shop w/2 hrs mechanical rate to clear the ABS system of fluid, I simply blead my lines, and rode for a few days, and re-blead them a second time. Maybe Warchild can give us a better alternative--I would be interested to have an answer to that ? as well--good ? toecutter

Bled the ABS brakes on my `94 R1100RSA every year for ten years. Just as straight forward as non-ABS.

The EVIL system on my `02 R1150RSA, on the other hand, is a royal PITA!

 

[markjenn]

On the non-linked, non-servo BMW ABS brakes, there are bleed fittings at the ABS pump and the manual says these must be bled as well as the calipers. Some guys skip it, figuring the fluid will flush through the system, but it is easy to do.

The FJR has a really complicated process on the ABS bleeding procedure where you repeatedly bleed the calipers, then go through a "Hydraulic Unit Operation Test" which exercises the ABS system with the bike stationary. There's a test coupler adapter electrical doohicky required. Dunno how important this is - I'd be tempted to just change the fluid more often and not worry about it.

Another tip: Use a turkey baster or similar to remove all the old fluid in the reservoirs before beginning; then top them off with clean fluid. This dmatically reduces the amount of bleeding as otherwise, you have to flush the entire volume of the reservoir through the system - much eaiser just to remove it before bleeding.

- Mark

 

[yamahlr]

With Thanksgiving coming up, can you reuse the turkey baster or is it sacrificed to the well being of the FJR?

 

[Geezer]

With Thanksgiving coming up, can you reuse the turkey baster or is it sacrificed to the well being of the FJR?

Well, maybe not dedicated solely to the FJR, but it will stay in the garage and not back to the kitchen. B)

 

[06FJRAEPILOT]

The ABS break line bleed is pretty much the same as non-ABS. Just a little more plumbing. Bleed the front first, then the rear. There is a check that requires something special to test the ABS system. Don't have it and don't know what it is. The ABS light functioned properly, and the brakes seemed fine so I just took the bike out on a vacant road and hit the breaks hard. The ABS kicked in. Seemed like a good enough test when your short shop instruments. :bigeyes:

 

[markjenn]

The ABS break line bleed is pretty much the same as non-ABS. Just a little more plumbing. Bleed the front first, then the rear. There is a check that requires something special to test the ABS system. Don't have it and don't know what it is. The ABS light functioned properly, and the brakes seemed fine so I just took the bike out on a vacant road and hit the breaks hard. The ABS kicked in. Seemed like a good enough test when your short shop instruments. :bigeyes:

According to the FJR manual, the test after brake bleed is not just to confirm the ABS system is functioning properly. You are supposed to bleed, test, bleed, and then test again. Presumably, this is to flush new fluid through the ABS system. I don't know how necessary this rigimrole is, but that's what the manual says to do.

- Mark

 

[bvail]

There's several tools that will aid in bleeding the brakes. Three that work well are:

1. One way bleeders, such as the ones that many of us purchased during the Spiegler brake buy. Connect a hose and a quarter turn of the bleeder and no fuss no muss. Cost depends on vendor. Dennis Kirk has them for about 10 bucks each, I think. Might be able to find at parts stores.

2. Cheap one man bleeder, consisting of a bottle (mine has a magnet on the side) and hose to the bleeder. This also prevents air from getting into the system, if used properly. Cost less than 10 bucks.

3. Mity-Vac power assisted juicer. Best place to buy is Northern Tools or Harbor Frieght if one is going to buy the nice metal one with the tool case. About 60 bucks. Only advantage I can see with this tool is no pumping of the clutch is required. You can throw the turkey baster away.

I have all 3 of the above. Important that the master cylinder is not pumped dry, unless one is changing out brake lines. Then it is unavoidable.

 

[JimV]

The ABS  break line bleed is pretty much the same as non-ABS.  Just a little more plumbing.  Bleed the front first, then the rear. There is a check that requires something special to test the ABS system.  Don't have it and don't know what it is.  The ABS light functioned properly, and the brakes seemed fine so I just took the bike out on a vacant road and hit the breaks hard.  The ABS kicked in.  Seemed like a good enough test when your short shop instruments. :bigeyes:

According to the FJR manual, the test after brake bleed is not just to confirm the ABS system is functioning properly. You are supposed to bleed, test, bleed, and then test again. Presumably, this is to flush new fluid through the ABS system. I don't know how necessary this rigimrole is, but that's what the manual says to do.

- Mark

Does anyone know definitively if running hte hydraulic unit test (ABS test) is absolutely required after changing the brake lines? I kind of get the impression from the service manual that in addition to actually exercising the ABS system, it is just confirming that everything is plumbed correctly.

Thanks,

Jim