Front vs Rear Tire Wear

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Although she loves to dance, the FJR is still a big girl!
--G

Yeah, and top heavy. Sometimes ya gotta love that in a gal. I've only had the FJR for 5000 miles. New rubber this year. Chicken strip on the rear is 1/8, on the front 1/2. WTF!!! I'm still gettin used to pushing this bike hard. The Bandit,,,,,150 lbs lighter and has a different mission in life.

Oh yeah, we were talking about tires, weren't we? 1.5 to 2 rears for every front.

Bruce
My experience is in line with others--probably 1.5 or 2 to 1 wearing out rear to front. I have a great local shop that mounts tires for me for $15 and puts on anything I bring in so I do the mix and match game with older take offs. Right now I have an old T30 on the rear and an older RS2 on the front; have a new set of T30's ready to mount later this spring.

BTW about those chicken strips -- you can lose them on the rear depending on tire (on a 180, not on a 190); on the front you'll be on the ground before they are gone FYI...
You are correct on the front chicken strips. You really have to be pushing the front and trail braking to lose those and that type of riding should not be done on the street.

 
Hmmmm, I must be doing something wrong. I wear out the front before the rear. Been that way since I started riding on radial tires. The last bike I had that the front outlasted the rear was a Heritage Softtail.

 
I will echo the almost 2 rears to 1 front. PR2 or T30-GT
This would explain why I have a 40% take-off rear, and brand new front in inventory.

What do I need to modify to put a car tire on for a single trip?
Just the rear brake "stay" (Tension bar in parts fiche). The original is too thick and doesn't give enough clearance. (See Darksider thread for details). If you were closer, I would GIVE you a good General Tire Gmax AS-03 with maybe 15,000 miles on it (still nearly new) and a spare brake stay. I tried to like the car tire (twice) and was never happy with it (also tried an Exalto for 25,000 miles or so).
 
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I will echo the almost 2 rears to 1 front. PR2 or T30-GT
This would explain why I have a 40% take-off rear, and brand new front in inventory.

What do I need to modify to put a car tire on for a single trip?
Just the rear brake "stay" (Tension bar in parts fiche). The original is too thick and doesn't give enough clearance. (See Darksider thread for details). If you were closer, I would GIVE you a good General Tire with maybe 15,000 miles on it (still nearly new) and a spare brake stay. I tried to like the car tire (twice) and was never happy with it.
Well I need the rear tension bar. Where do I get that? Sorry, don't want to read a 10,000 post thread to figure it out.

 
I think I used a piece of 3/16" thick x 1" wide (I think?) flat stock (stainless) with holes drilled in the appropriate spots. I used the original piece as a template for hole location. Really doesn't have to be that stout - 3/4" wide would be plenty. If using for a short time, you could use plain carbon steel (painted). Even aluminum flat stock would likely be OK.

Read the Darkside FAQ if you are serious about this - no need to scour the whole thread...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124275

 
I found it in the FAQ. Looks easy enough. I have done multiple trans-continent trips. I'm no where near one of the IBR guys, but I'm getting tired of sweating out the rear tire wear. Let's just say I like the FJR throttle response.

 
Here is a road test of tires that was performed using the FJR. At least this wasn't just one guy taking a quick spin.
https://touron2wheels.wordpress.com/2015/08/25/best-tires-2015-for-touring-motorcycles/
I have been through a lot of motorcycle tires, and of all I have used, the PR4 and PR2 seem to deliver the most miles, Bridgestone T30 is better handling. As you know, an 8000 mile road trip means worrying about the rear tire going away at an inconvenient time. I am considering using a car tire for the cross country trips. I think I'd prefer a MC tire for the local curvy roads, but I'm getting tired of wearing out rear tires. Of course, the trips to the drag strip did not help.

 
Regardless of tire, if using quality tires, I've found no front-to-rear difference based upon tire selection, but I have found that I can totally change wear through riding habits. My previous sport tourer would shred front tires two to one over rear tires. I could peel scrub a visible profile into a front in one long day. That bike had fully linked, servo assisted braking. It was wonderful. All upside and no downside. This led me to develop the habit, since the system was unflappable, of frequently braking in turns. I could go in as hot as I wanted, because one fingertip on the lever would tame the beast we call speed with no ill effects on handling, trajectory, or traction (tele-lever was, admittedly, part of what made this possible). As a result, I ended up braking at high angles rather regularly. My current steed is not so fancily equipped, and isn't as happy to compensate for bad habits. As a result, I rarely go into a curve hot, usually completing my braking prior to entry, accelerating through the turn where appropriate. This dramatically changes the demands (I think) on the stickiest parts of the front tire, and as a result, I now wear front and rear tires fairly evenly. Maybe not same-same, but no longer two to one. Using engine modulation rather than braking in turns also serves to wear the sides of the rear tire a bit more, which is a bonus, because I do a lot of commuting and interstate travel between pleasure trips, and would otherwise have more shoulder left than center on the rear.

 
I'm with you Opie; I wear the front first too.

The reason fer this iz cuz, the FJR is way heavier on the front. Weight distribution on a Bring Mor Wallet is like 60% rear 'n 40% front. FJR iz closer to 50/50. (I think if you take off the bags, lower the front, raise the rear, you can get it to 50/50?) I dun run standard T30s - 40 to 41 psi F, 'n 44 to 46 psi R

 
Reminder. This thread is specifically about Front vs. Rear Tire Wear.

As with most threads on this forum, you want to veer off topic and talk about other things than the thread subject....please start another thread or use one of the many, Many, MANY existing threads generically about tire wear, tire brands etc. Nor should you post about my administrative note.

Thanks.

The Management

 
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Bill, I think you nailed it. One should always do the needed braking before the turn but bad habits are easy to acquire and hard to lose. I was also used to using the rear brake alone to help set up the turn, but the K1200KTfoot brake is not linked to the front and is more effective than the FJR.

Guess we need to practice better cornering technique. (Theresa says just buy more front tires!
rolleyes.gif
)

 
There are far too many variables to make any conclusions. Tire pressure affects running temp which directly impacts tire wear. Most FJR savvy folks have come to a consensus that the bike performs best with about 40 psi in the front and 42 psi in the rear tire. But one guy's 40 may quite easily be another's 37, and another guy's 42 could be someone else's 45.

Then there are ambient temps. And add in variation in road temps. And road friction / material. Then add variation in rider inputs, braking, acceleration and steering habits and the variables far outweigh the variations of tire brand. All one can do is to compare and contrast how their own tire wear is, in their own environment, with their own tire selections, and then try to change one variable at a time and see how that impacts their own wear and performance.

Me? I tend to get about 9k per rear and 12k per front, so about 4 rears to 3 fronts. So, seldom do I get to change both tires st the same time

 
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Mezeler tried to address the uneven wear (front vs rear) of their Z8 tires by developing the new M (front) and O (rear) spec tires. The M and O spec tires use a new mix of High Silica compounds to give the O rear tire a supposedly 30% milage improvement to even out the wear between the front and the rear. Here is a news release on the M and O spec tires.

https://www.cycleworl...ouring-compound



There are some other tricks they use (their Interact technology) to control the flex and heat generated to improve rear tire mileage on the slabs.

I have yet to try these. My rear tires wear out the centers faster than the fronts but the front tend to block off.

And just when you think you know something, so called improved tires and compounds come out (Roadtec 01s?). So you need to just try some combos to get the wear pattern you can live with.
 
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Here is a road test of tires that was performed using the FJR. At least this wasn't just one guy taking a quick spin.
https://touron2wheels.wordpress.com/2015/08/25/best-tires-2015-for-touring-motorcycles/
Love the Z8's. We've considered trying the 01's but price and availability of the Z8's wins out for now.
K_Flyer, How is the front vs rear wearout ratio and the mileage? Also does the front tire cup or block off?

Jamie, have you ever had those Michelins changed? Try a T-30 on the fornt, no blocking or scalloping.

 
Over the approx. 60,000 miles I had my '03, the rear tire always wore out first. With my '14, both front tires have worn out first.

I'm wondering if the new fork spring/damper arrangement affects front tire wear? Or maybe I have developed a lighter throttle hand in my old age.

 
Well I am one of the off people here but not the only one. I wear out a front tire on my 2010 FJR quicker than the rear. I usually go through 3 front tires to 2 rear tires. The PR3 front lasted the longest. I am riding T30 EVO's and the front will be used up before the rear. I will change out both to EVO GT's soon and give those a try. So far, the T30 EVO's are the best handling tire I have ran on the FJR. Second are the Angel GT's.

 

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