When the sending unit is completely open or completely shorted the ECU is supposed to flash all of the bars on/off, all at once. Confirm that you don't have an intermittent connector connection or corrosion in the sender connector and verify that you have a solid reference voltage going to the sending unit connector.
If the voltage is present and at the correct voltage you are going to have to pull the pump. Once on the bench (floor, kitchen table) take a look at the red/black wires at the bottom of the sending unit and make sure they are intact and connected. Inspect the contact on the float arm and make sure it is in contact with the bars on the sending unit. You should be able to put your DMM on the wires at the base of the sending unit and verify if it is working or not. I recently posted pictures, for those that don't know what this thingie looks like I will see if I can find those pictures.
Ahh, found it. The following is a straight copy/paste from another thread where I posted it so it may not be completely in context with this thread.
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What's in the tank? Here is the fuel gauge:
The metal arm on the right side is the float arm. The semi circle with the red and black wires at the bottom is the resistor board that produces the varying voltage that the ECU converts into a fuel level.
This is the sending unit (resistor board). The float arm has a wiper that must contact the little silver conductors. As the float drops with the fuel level the wiper moves down the resistor network. The red and black wires have to be attached (DOH) and the board can have ZERO damage, such as scratches. The fuel pump is an assembly, the fuel sending unit can't be purchased separately. If you can find a complete pump assembly that is bad you can salvage the fuel sending assembly and transplant it.
You don't need your glasses or your eyes checked, the pictures are in fact blurry.
Edit: I see while I was posting this the OP had an epiphany and probably no longer needs to see this.