Funky Shifting

[Canadian FJR]

Here is the note that I just sent off to my dealer, open to any input.

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Im coming up on 5000 km and will be ready for my next oil change. I wanted to chat about some funky shifting issues.

First gear on FJRs is known for a bit of clunk when first starting off, sometimes mine does and other times it is buttery smooth. No issues there. Also, never any type of clutch chatter when pulling away.

The rest of the gears is a crap shoot. When upshifting, sometimes buttery smooth, sometimes a slight click that I am used to, other times it feels like a double shift up is needed before engaging. Other times, it just feels like it wont go into gear. The same scenario as if the shift lever was not returning to its neutral position before the next shift.

When downshifting, same random issues. Sometimes it acts as expected, other times much smoother that I would expect then other times it just doesnt want to downshift.

I tried shifting at different rev ranges, blipping the throttle and cant make it do the same thing every time. It is random.

It has done this since new and I was hoping it just needed some breaking in. Im hoping things will improve after the next oil change this week.

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I have enough miles on an FJR and other bikes to know what "normal" is and something ain't right.

Canadian FJR

 

[RossKean]

If the bike wasn't so new, I would suggest that the shift pivot is too tight (or insufficiently lubed). May be some binding in the linkages as well. Definitely sounds like some mechanical issue outside the transmission. If the spring that brings it back to the middle position was broken, I would expect to see issues all the time - not randomly.

Hope the dealer gets it sorted out for you.

 

[dcarver]

My first guess is a broken or weakened shift return spring..

 

[wfooshee]

Shifting is different in the six-speed, as with the helical gears, the gears don't slide to shift; they can't move. The shift forks actually carry a separate wheel for the dogs. In an automotive transmission, those wheels would carry synchronizers, but the bike is still non-synchro with dog clutches. Conceptually the same as the 5-speed, dogs slide into the mating holes of the gear wheel to lock in the selected ratio. Mechanically, though, it's a completely different structure.

I would expect a difference in feel, but not any randomization. Randomization implies something in the shifter itself. If the lever doesn't center after shifting, you can't get the next gear, either up or down, until it does reset to center. Have you pulled it apart and cleaned it? Easy to do, and if it works better afterwards, it saves a trip to the dealer.

 

[Canadian Steve]

Have you tried adjusting the rod linkage? Is it possible your boots toes are too tall and there is not enough clearance to return to center on some shifts depending on what your foot is doing. There is about 1/2" or a little better of adjustment from lowest to tallest shifter arm setting

 

[Canadian FJR]

Thanks for the replies. The last ride I specifically focused on foot position because I was thinking that maybe I was preventing the lever from falling back to the neutral position but thats not it. Next step is to disassemble and lube up the pivots.

Stay tuned

Canadian FJR

 

[RossKean]

I found that with my '07, the amount the pivot bolt was tightened was critical - after the first time I serviced it. If the wave washer is squashed flat, the whole mechanism does not move well. I take it apart about once every two years, clean it up thoroughly (pivot and linkages) and reassemble with some waterproof grease. For the pivot, make sure that all of the washers that are supposed to be there are, in fact, there. For mine (not all seem to be the same) I snug it down and then back it off a very small amount and this frees up the movement. Not actually "loose" but at a torque that is probably a bit less than spec. I put a bit of blue Loctite on the threads to prevent it from backing off further - so far, so good.

I haven't heard complaints on shifting with the 6-speed transmissions so I expect your is just in need of some adjustment. Let us know...

 

[Millrat]

I have a 2018 ES with about 1300 miles. Sometime it shifts nice and smooth, sometime like an old BSA. Two oil changes

Now using Yamaha synthetic. Hoping it all smoothes out.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Changed the oil/filter Yamalube 10-40 and checked the shift linkage. The shaft was well lubed, looked like Moly. The two knuckles were dry so I lubed them up. Shifting seems better, not convinced that it is 100% just yet.

Canadian FJR

 

[Canadian FJR]

12,000 kms & three oil changes later. I'm still scratching my head.

I had the opportunity to test ride another '18 FJR at the demo days this past weekend and that bike shifts the exact same way as described above.

I'm surprised that there is not more chat about this. If it is consistently smooth or consistently notchy then so be it. None of the Yamaha reps or techs can explain why it is random. Love the new bike but the shifting is causing me some concerns.

 

[dcumpian]

I have a 2018A and shifting, while different from what I was used to coming from other bikes, is actually pretty smooth once you retrain your movements:

• For speed shiftingDon't shift below 3500RPM
• Don't pull the clutch all the way when shifting
• Very quickly, roll off the throttle slightly, the bike will slip right into the next gear.

[*]For low speed shifting

• Pull the clutch all the way
• Pull up hard on the shifter
• Roll off the throttle and then feather the clutch into gear.

For downshifting, don't engine brake below 3rd gear...this bike doesn't seem to like it. After 3rd gear, leave the clutch pulled in and shift the gears into 2-N-1. If you absolutely have to engine brake through 2nd, you'll need to release and then pull the clutch to get it into 1st, otherwise, sometimes it just won't go.

At low speeds, shifting is a lot clunkier than at higher speeds. Once you reach 3500RPM, it'll slip right into gear very easily.

Dan

 

[jammess]

I find that short shifting from first into second at around 2.5 to 3K revs then higher revs from 2nd on up works best. Always pull clutch lever all the way. Shifting seems to get smoother as the miles add up. To avoid the clunk when shifting from neutral to first pull in the clutch and blip the throttle to around 2.5K revs then shift after revs drop back to idle RPM and no more clunk. Only takes a second to do. I use Motul 10-40 synthetic with ester which makes shifting a bit smoother and I'm sure the synthetic Yamalube would be just as good and similar in price as Motul from Amazon.

 

[Mortenk]

After 5 years on a Honda ST1300 I now ride a 2016 ES and I can certainly relate to this. I recently compiled a pros/cons list between the two bikes, and as far as the transmission goes, the ST is a clear winner. It's 5-speed, smooth, and quiet. 6 gears on a large/powerful motorcycle is just annoying IMO, although I couldn't live without the ratio of 6th (gives great gas mileage and minimal vibrations). If the FJR had 5 gears with 2nd, 3rd, and 4th spread nicely between the current 1 and 6, I would be very happy. As a result, I frequently skip 3rd and 5th while accelerating...but it still takes a lot of shifting, which brings me to my original thought:

I also observe a lot of randomness here. Sometimes N-1 is smooth, and sometimes it's very clunky. The worst part is when you have to shift from e.g. 5-1 during a standstill (happened a few weeks ago, when I had to make a sudden stop, with no time for downshifting). I frequently have to release the clutch slightly between each gear before I can downshift again. So, it will take a while to get from 5 to 1. The car behind me wasn't super impressed with my delay to say the least.

Another annoying behavior that seems to happen pretty much all the time: whenever I release the clutch after up-shifting (e.g. 2-3), transmission makes this slight "engaging" sound, which to me indicates that shifting alone isn't really doing all that's needed to "enter" the next gear. This is driving me nuts...I would expect the same behavior whether I simply release the clutch without switching gear, or I shift gears and then release...

Final note: I love the clutch! It is so soft and easy to pull.

 

[HotRodZilla]

I don't think I've ever ridden a motorcycle that would let me shift from 5th or 6th to first, while at a stop, with no issues. I learned to rock bikes back and forth way before the FJR.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Here is another comment from a member on a different forum but is also experiencing issues;

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Anyone having problems with new six speed transmission sticking in gear. Sometimes won't shift up from second or third. Other times won't shift from fifth to sixth. Of course it did not stick for dealer when they did oil change last week. Bike is a 2016 with 7700 miles. Will take it back when I have time to leave it at dealer for a week or so. Still in warranty.

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For my 18, time for another oil change at 15,000 km and the randomness of the shifting sucks. I spoke to my Yamaha Canada reps and they are looking into it.

It is not improving as the miles rack up.

 

[mcatrophy]

Maybe it's time to consider a clutch soak? I've not heard of a Gen 4 needing it, but the symptoms are there.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Here’s an odd discovery. This weekend I tried some clutchless upshitfts in the higher gears. Fifth and sixth were smoother without the clutch than with it. Does this point to clutch plates sticking?

 

[RossKean]

Seems likely although an air bubble might have a similar effect. At least it points to the clutch rather than a transmission issue.

With a clutchless upshift (preloaded shifter), it "pops" into gear when the engine speed matches the output speed. When you use the clutch, you let off the throttle and the engine speed drops so the output speed (which doesn't change much) does not match. This isn't an issue if the engine is fully isolated by the clutch and the transmission should shift smoothly. If it is linking up even a little bit, shifting isn't going to be smooth. You won't know for sure until you take an hour or two and pull the clutch to wet the friction discs with oil. It will be interesting to see if you have the black goo people have reported on some of the discs and steels. Sounds like a two beer job for a rainy Saturday afternoon...

While you're at it, do another thorough bleed of the clutch hydraulics; especially if it hasn't been done.

Will your dealer help you out on this? Or are you just trying to avoid down time?

 

[Canadian FJR]

Dealer is willing to assist, I’m just trying to trouble shoot to avoid wasted shop time.