Fuse block install - parts list anyone?

[sportsguy]

I have the block, I think. Pretty sure I do.

What gauge wire should I look for to install a FB?

Nothing to plug into it yet, BUT, since we're wrenching on bikes, I might as well get this done and ready to use.

 

[Bounce]

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[BwanaDik]

I used 12 gauge primary from the battery to the block. You can potentially have all your farkles powered up at the same time so it could pull quite a load. Different size wire to the farkles, depending on the anticipated load.

 

[Panman]

Does your fuse block have a relay built in if not you'll want a relay.

 

[Neil San Diego]

Enough 12 ga wire to get from the battery to the fuse block (some folks even use 10 ga, but that's a bit of overkill). Red and Black.

Relay.

Main fuse (30 amp?), installed as close to the battery as feasible.

Connectors.

Beer.

 

[sportsguy]

Thanks guys - just waht I needed.

Panman - cannot recall...hell, you were there when I bought it!

Step one - find the damn thing.

Step two - check for the relay, then plan accordingly.

 

[Panman]

Panman - cannot recall...hell, you were there when I bought it!

Where the heck was I??

 

[Auburn]

I have all the parts/wire necessary on hand that you can use at the tech day.

 

[road runner]

Where are you planning on putting it ? I'm going to make more Gen II fuse box brackets and offer them for sale, soon.

Here is what the prototype looks like. The new ones will be slightly different in that the 4 bolts that hold the arms to the plate will be on the inside, instead of on the outside of the arms. This will make it easier to install, and it won't be so close to the plastic. I haven't figured out a price yet, but they will only be 5-10 dollars more than the materials. PM me if you want one, and I'll let you know about price as soon as I figure it out.

 

[sportsguy]

@roadrunner - PM sent That's actually the same make as the one I bought.

@panman - well, when I say you were "with " me, I mean you wer ein the same building as me... you somewhere... me laying down cash and, if you recall, I still have that nsappy pic of you with your every so manly special coffee... so, ummm, yeah... there's that... *whistles*

 

[Panman]

Where are you planning on putting it ? I'm going to make more Gen II fuse box brackets and offer them for sale, soon.
Here is what the prototype looks like. The new ones will be slightly different in that the 4 bolts that hold the arms to the plate will be on the inside, instead of on the outside of the arms. This will make it easier to install, and it won't be so close to the plastic. I haven't figured out a price yet, but they will only be 5-10 dollars more than the materials. PM me if you want one, and I'll let you know about price as soon as I figure it out.

You might want to cut a radius on the ends as that way you can just loosen the to bolts to flip it forward to get at the tail lights.

Something like this,

I used a piece of Lexan for the ones I built and passed out.

 

[road runner]

Panman

Good idea. I'll look into that. That one you made looks very nice.

 

[Niehart]

As much as it pains me to say nice things about Panman, he does damn good work!

 

[Panman]

If and when I make more I would narrow the top flange down a little as you are wasting mounting space, maybe even the bottom flange as I think I could squeeze a Autocom or Starcom into it also.

The reason I used the Lexan is that it's non conducetive.

 

[FJRGuy]

If and when I make more I would narrow the top flange down a little as you are wasting mounting space, maybe even the bottom flange as I think I could squeeze a Autocom or Starcom into it also.The reason I used the Lexan is that it's non conducetive.

So what is "conducetive"???

Seriously though, which is the 'top flange' and which is the 'bottom flange'? I having a hard time matching your terminology with what I'm seeing and what I'm thinking.

I'm thinking, add a few tapped holes in the aluminum and you got yourself a nice ground bus too!

This is the second (and third) time I've seen this type of mounting solution and I really like it. I could not find the first one I saw again so these pics are great. I don't imagine that these mounts need to be as robust as both of yours appear to be. Is there any reason other than to simplify home building that this couldn't be a one-piece bend part?

 

[road runner]

If and when I make more I would narrow the top flange down a little as you are wasting mounting space, maybe even the bottom flange as I think I could squeeze a Autocom or Starcom into it also.The reason I used the Lexan is that it's non conducetive.

So what is "conducetive"???

Seriously though, which is the 'top flange' and which is the 'bottom flange'? I having a hard time matching your terminology with what I'm seeing and what I'm thinking.

I'm thinking, add a few tapped holes in the aluminum and you got yourself a nice ground bus too!

This is the second (and third) time I've seen this type of mounting solution and I really like it. I could not find the first one I saw again so these pics are great. I don't imagine that these mounts need to be as robust as both of yours appear to be. Is there any reason other than to simplify home building that this couldn't be a one-piece bend part?

If you look close, the bolts that hold it on go threw the plastic fender then into the rear frame. So I don't know if I would count on the bolt threads for a good ground. It would work, but how long before a possible intermittent grnd issue. If you run a grnd wire from a good source like the battery to the brkt, then you could use it as a ground bus.

I was thinking the same thing about a one piece brkt last night. Where I get my aluminum they have a metal brake so it would be easy to make. I just have to make another poster board template to see if it will work, and how big to make it.

Thanks guys for the input; A.C.

 

[FJRGuy]

...If you run a grnd wire from ... the battery to the brkt, then you could use it as a ground bus.

That's what I was envisioning! I don't trust bolts not specifically provided for grounding.

I was thinking the same thing about a one piece brkt last night. Where I get my aluminum they have a metal brake so it would be easy to make. I just have to make another poster board template to see if it will work, and how big to make it.

Key is to get the finished dimension correct taking into account the bending radius and rollout.