Fuse block preference

[blakebird]

IIRC, Gen II FJRs have about 200-250 watts of excess electrical power available for operator added farkles. Which is right in the range of the Fuzelbock.

zakly....

I first saw the Centech units when I had my plated XR600's stator rewound and was looking for a place to add grip heaters, aux lighting, etc.... then the Blue Sea and the Fuzeblock as my search extended for the FJR.

The FZ-1 fits the FJR perfectly, both physically and with the amount of current it can handle. If I still had a GL1800 with room to spare and 1100 watts to chow thru...or my R1150GS Adv and it's PIAA 540's and heated Corbin, I might have put on a fuse block that can handle more load.

The FZ-1 is a neat little unit though, and well suited to this bike.

Now that I have one....if I had a need (and the capacity) for more current handling, I'd probably add another FZ-1.

 

[tenex]

Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Uhh, not really. What they say is "You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up."

This stuff ain't rocket science. Take the wattage of your device, divide by twelve volts, and you'll get the current draw in amps. Just because you have a thirty amp fuse in a circuit, that doesn't mean the circuit is drawing thirty amps. Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

 

[2006FJR]

Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Uhh, not really. What they say is "You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up."

This stuff ain't rocket science. Take the wattage of your device, divide by twelve volts, and you'll get the current draw in amps. Just because you have a thirty amp fuse in a circuit, that doesn't mean the circuit is drawing thirty amps. Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

Fact: "Just remember that the circuit for an FZ-1 should not exceed 10A...."

Fact: Powerlet device requires and ships with a 15A fuse.

I agree that this stuff is not rocket science.

 

[tenex]

Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Uhh, not really. What they say is "You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up."

This stuff ain't rocket science. Take the wattage of your device, divide by twelve volts, and you'll get the current draw in amps. Just because you have a thirty amp fuse in a circuit, that doesn't mean the circuit is drawing thirty amps. Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

Fact: "Just remember that the circuit for an FZ-1 should not exceed 10A...."

Fact: Powerlet device requires and ships with a 15A fuse.

I agree that this stuff is not rocket science.

Fact: Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

Not sure what your background is, but I spent 17 years designing power systems for telecommunications equipment. The fact that a Powerlet is shipped with a 15A fuse is not relevant. It's the current draw of the device that's attached to the circuit that matters.

 

[mdisher]

Fack!.... I just ordered up a Centech to replace my BIG ASS Blue Seas... Nothing wrong with it, it's just big and fugly.

Wish I'd have seen this thread last night. The power allowed by this thing is perfect for my needs. Maybe I'll gift the Centech to someone else

 

[Bounce]

K.I.S.S.

I still prefer the roll-it-yourself path.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=25

 

[2006FJR]

Even FuzeBlock on their own site suggests that you do not use their product for heated gear, lights ect.

Uhh, not really. What they say is "You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up."

This stuff ain't rocket science. Take the wattage of your device, divide by twelve volts, and you'll get the current draw in amps. Just because you have a thirty amp fuse in a circuit, that doesn't mean the circuit is drawing thirty amps. Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

Fact: "Just remember that the circuit for an FZ-1 should not exceed 10A...."

Fact: Powerlet device requires and ships with a 15A fuse.

I agree that this stuff is not rocket science.

Fact: Using a fuse that's larger than necessary for the current draw of the protected device is a bad idea.

Not sure what your background is, but I spent 17 years designing power systems for telecommunications equipment. The fact that a Powerlet is shipped with a 15A fuse is not relevant. It's the current draw of the device that's attached to the circuit that matters.

I am really an idiot when it comes to anything mechanical to be honest and I am not trying to say the Blue Sea is better. I just like a lively debate where I and others can learn. Trust me when I say I do much more learning then helping but that is slowly changing as I frequent this board. I just know there are many here who run a Powerlet and heated gear and in the case with a FZ-1 they would need to remove the 15 amp fuse that they suggest and ship with and replace it with a 10 amp or they could possibly run the risk of overpowering the unit down the road if they accidently try to power too many items out of that one Powerlet plug. I am actually going to buy an FZ-1 as soon as they start shipping again for my wife’s bike and for her needs it will be a perfect fit. If someone buys the bike down the road and thinks that it can handle up to 15 amps they might try and plug in a jacket, pants, gloves and socks? The Blue Sea is WAY too big, it's ugly and it is not switchable but it can move more amps safely if that is what is needed. Clearly there are some very real limitations to the bike's power that make all or most of this a moot point.

 

[mdisher]

K.I.S.S.
I still prefer the roll-it-yourself path.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=25

I think this thing is KISS... Simple, run (3) wires and you're done. Decide if you want something switched or constant by the fuse location. Change it on the fly.

Might not be perfect for my heated gear, or high out put lights, but is perfect for Starcomm, GPS, power to my Power Commander, and what not.

I ordered one, and look forward to cleaning up the rats nest under my seat.

It may be more complicated, but if/when there's an issue, I won't have to pull my dash apart to check the relay, and all that shiznit. It will all be contained neatly in one little box.

I likey.

 

[tenex]

I am really an idiot when it comes to anything mechanical to be honest and I am not trying to say the Blue Sea is better. I just like a lively debate where I and others can learn. Trust me when I say I do much more learning then helping but that is slowly changing as I frequent this board. I just know there are many here who run a Powerlet and heated gear and in the case with a FZ-1 they would need to remove the 15 amp fuse that they suggest and ship with and replace it with a 10 amp or they could possibly run the risk of overpowering the unit down the road if they accidently try to power too many items out of that one Powerlet plug. I am actually going to buy an FZ-1 as soon as they start shipping again for my wife’s bike and for her needs it will be a perfect fit. If someone buys the bike down the road and thinks that it can handle up to 15 amps they might try and plug in a jacket, pants, gloves and socks? The Blue Sea is WAY too big, it's ugly and it is not switchable but it can move more amps safely if that is what is needed. Clearly there are some very real limitations to the bike's power that make all or most of this a mute point.

There's no doubt that the Blue Sea can handle more power than the FZ1. In my application, I looked at the things I planned to run and didn't come up with anything that required greater than 120 watts (10 amps @ 12 V) on a single circuit. Even the heated liner I'm considering (Warm n' Safe) only draws 100 watts. The size, built-in relay and ease of changing each circuit from switched to unswitched made the FZ1 the best solution for me. That having been said, with the FZ1, one needs to be careful to not exceed 10 amps per circuit and 30 amps total for the switched circuits. Running multiple articles of heated clothing on a single circuit could be problematic. Knowing how to calculate the current draw makes it pretty easy to stay out of trouble.

 

[FJRGuy]

Maybe I'll gift the Centech to someone else

Pick me, pick me! :lol:

Been researching this and like what the FuzeBlock has to offer. Might I have done something different? Maybe but it looks like the best of what I've seen for our purpose (motorcycle). I'll be looking more at Blue Sea for boating purposes (gotta farkle the boat too!) Now ship the design off to china so we can get it cheaper! :yahoo:

 

[Tbird]

So answer me this please...

Warm and Safe claims these numbers:

Jacket 100W / 7.75 Amps at 12.8 Volts

Gloves 12W / .94 Amps at 12.8 Volts (ea)

This equals a total draw of 9.63 (7.72 + .94 + .94) Amps at 12.8 Volts

However if you divide the above wattages by 12.0 Volts you get:

Jacket 8.3 Amps

Gloves 1.0 Amps (ea)

This equals a total draw of 10.3 (8.3 + 1.0 + 1.0)Amps at 12 Volts.

Would you think that I could run this from a single circuit on the FZ1?

 

[mdisher]

So answer me this please...
Warm and Safe claims these numbers:

Jacket 100W / 7.75 Amps at 12.8 Volts

Gloves 12W / .94 Amps at 12.8 Volts (ea)

This equals a total draw of 9.63 (7.72 + .94 + .94) Amps at 12.8 Volts

However if you divide the above wattages by 12.0 Volts you get:

Jacket 8.3 Amps

Gloves 1.0 Amps (ea)

This equals a total draw of 10.3 (8.3 + 1.0 + 1.0)Amps at 12 Volts.

Would you think that I could run this from a single circuit on the FZ1?

I would say "Yes", since I think it would be highly unlikely that you'd run with both the gloves and the jacket at 100% for any real length of time.

I don't *think* my gerbings draws that much but I will check. I will be connecting my primary Gerbings hook up to the 'always' on side (a powerlet adapter mounted up front).

Everything else will move to the switched side. (though I will still have a secondary gerbings 'tail' under the seat for a pillion and/or a backup).

I'm sure someone will follow shortly and disagree with me. But I think since my current gerbings tail has a 10A fuse in it and I've never blown that I should be good to go.

-MD

 

[2006FJR]

We are going to get a Gerbring Jacket liner and heated Glove liners for both my wife and I later this week.

Gerbring Jacket Liner $199

Specifications

Heat GHC High Density Heat

Source 12-volts DC

Current 6.4 amps

Watts 77 watts

Surface Temp 135°F +/- 5°F at 32°F

Gerbring Glove Liner $79

Specifications

Heat Microwire®

Source 12-volts DC

Current 2.2 amps

Watts 27 watts

Surface Temp 135°F +/- 5°F at 32°F

The two items I will be running only take up 8.8 amps per person which would be well within the 10 amp maximum of the FZ-1 as long as we do not add the heated pants and socks later. If I add 2-Portable Dual Temperature controlers at $99 each then the total would be $754 and I hope they come out with a special sometime soon. Below is the special that Powerlet just came out with.

SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER

ALL HEATED CLOTHING

AND RELATED ACCESSORIES

Take 20% off your PHONE order of Powerlet HEATED CLOTHING, temperature controllers and heated clothing cables.

Call now and receive Free Domestic Shipping and Discounted International Shipping for the Holidays!

Phone Orders Only: 877-752-7835.

Due to the high volume of calls, if an operator is unavailable, please leave your contact info and a representative from our sales office will return your call.

 

[tenex]

So answer me this please...
Warm and Safe claims these numbers:

Jacket 100W / 7.75 Amps at 12.8 Volts

Gloves 12W / .94 Amps at 12.8 Volts (ea)

This equals a total draw of 9.63 (7.72 + .94 + .94) Amps at 12.8 Volts

However if you divide the above wattages by 12.0 Volts you get:

Jacket 8.3 Amps

Gloves 1.0 Amps (ea)

This equals a total draw of 10.3 (8.3 + 1.0 + 1.0)Amps at 12 Volts.

Would you think that I could run this from a single circuit on the FZ1?

The actual voltage is closer to 13.5 - I generally use 12 as a conservative number. Divide 124 watts by 13.5 and you get about 9.2 amps. Also, it's unlikely that you'd be running both the gloves and the jacket at 100% for any length of time. Ideally, I'd put the two items on separate circuits, but if that's not possible you'll "probably" be okay. Installing a Datel voltmeter would give you real-time voltage numbers and make your calculations more accurate. Or you could just carry extra fuses :blink: .

 

[Tbird]

...Or you could just carry extra fuses :blink: .

I thought that was what pennies were for.

Thanks for the replies. I thought I'd be alright running that set up through the FZ1.

I just didn't want to let the smoke out of the loom. Once it's out it's hard to get it

back in.

 

[jack]

Thanks for all the good replies. I will probably go with the FZ1 and run everything through it except the FF 50's and the Gerbing stuff, as they are both big draws.

Jack.

 

[NSrider]

I sent payment for one of the FZ-1 fuseblocks on the 14th, but have not heard anything from them since. I tend to worry when I send someone money and then hear nothing from them. I'll give it another week or so before I do anything , just in case.

 

[mdisher]

I sent payment for one of the FZ-1 fuseblocks on the 14th, but have not heard anything from them since. I tend to worry when I send someone money and then hear nothing from them. I'll give it another week or so before I do anything , just in case.

Me too, I did get a receipt for my payment though. The website did say he would not have any until after Christmas.

Bottom line though it was only $70. Not like a $1000 for a non-existent fuel cell or something

I sent payment for one of the FZ-1 fuseblocks on the 14th, but have not heard anything from them since. I tend to worry when I send someone money and then hear nothing from them. I'll give it another week or so before I do anything , just in case.

Me too, I did get a receipt for my payment though. The website did say he would not have any until after Christmas.

Bottom line though it was only $70. Not like a $1000 for a non-existent fuel cell or something

Scratch all that, I have a shipping notice in my email this morning.. :yahoo:

 

[Patriot]

I just tried "www.fuseblock.com" and got the message, "Sorry, we're Closed" - I wonder what that means in the long term ???

Merry Christmas to all of us,

Mike in Nawlins'

EDIT: whoops, I bad: it's www.fuzeblocks.com and that works OK !!!

 

[TFC]

I recently ordered (12/13/08) from fuzeblock and was curious about the timing. See below.

Just got word on Christmas Eve that my fuzeblock has shipped!

********************************************************************

Hi John,

Right now the best estimate I have is to stop shipping the first week of January. I may be able to ship a little sooner than that but the first week of January would be the latest.

Hopefully that helps.

Thanks,

Curt

******************************************************************

Hi Curt,

I recently ordered a fuzeblock from your site.

I saw your post on the homepage from 11/21 re: holiday availability.

Can you give me an update as to when you expect to ship to customers?

I may temporarily wire my grip heaters for an upcoming trip w/out

the fuzeblock - but wanted to check the timing.

Thanks,

John