fuse blown?

[Leprechaun]

Hi. this morning I turned on the ignition,tried to open the glove compartment and nothing happens. The horn doesn't work and neither does the windshield mechanism.Any ideas?Thanks in advance.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Don't think it is one fuse, those symptoms involves a few different fuses.

Any other symptoms ?

For example, are the indicators all on at 1/2 brilliance ?, is the high beam indicator on ?

May have a high resistance neutral connector, ie the dreaded spider bite.

Looks like you have a crook S6 spider connector.

 

[Leprechaun]

No,the indicators work OK, the high beam works OK, and the wiring loom was replaced by Yamaha a couple of years ago

 

[ionbeam]

Those items are common with the Signaling System fuse. There is an outside chance that it could be the ignition switch; Yamaha had a recall for the ignition switch. If the fuse is not blown you need to check the Signaling System fuse socket and verify that there is power to the fuse, if there is no power with the key ON the ignition switch is bad.

 

[Leprechaun]

Unfortunately,there wash"t a recall in Italy for the ignition switch .

 

[ionbeam]

Unfortunately,there wash"t a recall in Italy for the ignition switch .

If the Signaling System fuse is blown you have to find out what happened or what is bad . If it is intermittent it could be a problem to find the root cause.

If the ignition switch is bad, well, at least you know what the problem is and there is a clear fix. The ignition switch is not real expensive but it is a bit of a pain in the butt to replace.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Unfortunately,there wash"t a recall in Italy for the ignition switch .

If the Signaling System fuse is blown you have to find out what happened or what is bad . If it is intermittent it could be a problem to find the root cause.

If the ignition switch is bad, well, at least you know what the problem is and there is a clear fix. The ignition switch is not real expensive but it is a bit of a pain in the butt to replace.

Unfortunately,the ignition switch is really expensive for the European models,because you must replace and the ECU together because the imobilizer..The total cost is about $2000..!

 

[ionbeam]

Unfortunately,the ignition switch is really expensive for the European models,because you must replace and the ECU together because the imobilizer..The total cost is about $2000..!

Well then, the problem just has to be a blown fuse.

(That explains why Yamaha didn't recall the ignition switch in Europe.)

(I guess that kinda rules out the old toggle switch for an ignition switch.)

(I'm glad I don't have an imobilizer!!!!)

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Unfortunately,the ignition switch is really expensive for the European models,because you must replace and the ECU together because the imobilizer..The total cost is about $2000..!

Well then, the problem just has to be a blown fuse.

(That explains why Yamaha didn't recall the ignition switch in Europe.)

(I guess that kinda rules out the old toggle switch for an ignition switch.)

(I'm glad I don't have an imobilizer!!!!)

Mine has an imobilizer,and really afraid for a possible damage in this thing.....

 

[Leprechaun]

Update: The fuse was blown(it's the 15A one second from bottom in the larger fusebox). My mechanic replaced it and everythig was working again until about an hour later,as I was opening the garage door,it blew again. Oh, the joys of motorcycling!

 

[Allen_C]

Interesting...that fuse should be 10A, not 15. If a 15A is installed and it is still blowing you have a bigger problem. Do you have an aftermarket horn? If so, it may be overloading the circuit.

 

[Leprechaun]

No,I don't have an aftermarket horn. The only extras are the Orange TPMS and a Powerlet socket

 

[ionbeam]

You can start the troubleshooting by looking at the blown fuse. Hold it up to the light and look through the fuse where the fuse element is (was). If the element is simply melted apart you have an excessive current draw from some component. If the element area is black or is dark and has a metallic sheen to it you have an intermittent short, like a wire getting pinched or a wire that goes over something and the insulation has been broken.

Drawing 25 amps through a 10 amp fuse will slowly melt the fuse element. If you have a short it will draw unrestricted current and blow up the element making the black mark.

How you will proceed to troubleshoot the problem will be determined by the color of the fuse element.

Now that I know your FJR has an immobilizer I'm glad you have a hard to find electrical system problem and not a very, very, very expensive problem caused by a bad ignition switch

 

[Leprechaun]

You can start the troubleshooting by looking at the blown fuse. Hold it up to the light and look through the fuse where the fuse element is (was). If the element is simply melted apart you have an excessive current draw from some component. If the element area is black or is dark and has a metallic sheen to it you have an intermittent short, like a wire getting pinched or a wire that goes over something and the insulation has been broken.
Drawing 25 amps through a 10 amp fuse will slowly melt the fuse element. If you have a short it will draw unrestricted current and blow up the element making the black mark.

How you will proceed to troubleshoot the problem will be determined by the color of the fuse element.

Now that I know your FJR has an immobilizer I'm glad you have a hard to find electrical system problem and not a very, very, very expensive problem caused by a bad ignition switch

Thanks for the information. We are talking about the same fuse? The one that was blown was blue,second from bottom in the bigger fuse box looking directly down at it. I suspect it may be the TPMS, which I wired to the horn. I didn't do a good job on this,the wires move around a lot.